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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a pic of the front mount IC I put on my car. I've had it laying around for about 6 months, and finally put it on a few weeks ago:
 

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Does it feel any better? I knew you didn't like how the water to air one got heat soak. Hope you can't do that to this one.
On a side note, I should be starting my car today or tomorrow so I will be calling you to ask for tuning help within the next few days.
MCL
 

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where or what did you do for the hoses. what size did you use for the intercooler. I have been thinking of making my own for my wrx.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
The core is a race spec version from Greddy. I put some temp sensors on a while a go and started some data logging. Basically, the air/water would hang in there for a while, but once heat soak occurred, the a/w would start retaining the heat very quickly. With the fmic, the temperature seems to be staying really consistent no matter how much punishment I throw at it. The true test will be at second creek; hopefully i'll have some time maybe at the end of this week to go. i'll check their schedule and see what they have going on. As far as lag goes, yes, it is noticeable, but the lag is so very,very small, you can barely notice it. The car does seems to be making more power however, especially at the top end. I'll be going to the dyno maybe today or tomorrow to find out for sure.

As far as cams go, some of you already know I attained a set JUN version 3 high duration cams (268 degrees) with really high lift as well. Well a few months ago, I put them in, and retuned at the dyno. The results were somwhat expected, and disappointing:

1. I lost tons of power down low.

2. I didn't really achieve a power gain until about 6500 rpm.

3. These cams would be really good for an NA application on an engine with at least an 8000 rpm redline. In fact, I've resurrected my NA wagon project, and will probably be putting these cams in that car.

4. Easy Street came to the same conclusion with their cam experiments over the past year. They are currently using custom cams with a similar duration profile to stock cams, the only difference is the cams have tons of lift. To achieve this lift, the cam's transition from closed to open is VERY quick, so they are required to use shimless cam buckets from the STi, or else they would be spitting shims out (some of you have seen this actually occur on my car back in the past!!!). Easy Street's strategy to power is essentially based on using a gigantic turbo and just forcing air and fuel into the cylinders.

5. I now know for sure that Ver 3 cams fit right into our phase 1 DOHC heads without any modification. Phase 1 DOHC heads occurred on the 1998 Impreza RS, and 1997-1999 2.5 Legacys and Foresters.

The FMIC kit came with hoses and pipes, but they were intended to have a much longer plumbing route. I customized my install by cutting and rewelding some of the plumbing. I also had to make some minor mods to the body of the car and bumper. The extra hose requirements and additional tube welding were provided by Turbo Engineering Co. (TEC) in Golden, CO. The also let me borrow their tube bead former, so many thanks to Jim and Dillon at TEC.

My sleeper image is pretty much blown now. Especially with the Prodrive 18" GC06 wheels.

The dyno graph below illustrates my results. The red graph is an old dyno pull with stock cams. The blue line is with the JUN 268 cams. The line is so jagged because MAC screwed up and used a graph smoothing factor of 0, instead of 5. The results pretty much speak for themselves. The JUN cams created a powerband which climbed all the way to redline, but started way too small. These cams were immediately removed the day after the dyno pull. Both runs were with the old air/water IC.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh yeah, the air/water is for sale for $500. I put well over $1000 into it, so I guess it's somewhat of a good deal.
 
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