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Drop the MBC and get a UTEC/AP. Get an uppipe to decrease spool up if you want. Then get EGT and boost gauges. You are close to running Stg 2 maps. They are around 300hp i think. Get dyno tuned if you really want to know, but numbers can fluctuate.
 

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You have at least a 1K in parts now, unless you bought them used.

UTEC can be bought cheap off people that sold the WRX for the Sti or whatever reason. $500-700. Some even come w/ the remote switch. Check around the boards. Thats how I found mine. Another way to budget for your mods is to sit down and group them into stages. That way you know where you are going and how you will get there.

You are so close to TXS 2 and all you need is utec and an uppipe. Might as well save for it and get it. Plus if you do get a utec it will make your mbc useless b/c it comes with one. The ABC that comes with the utec will control your boost. You'll need the utec if you are serious. I rather do that then worry about how much boost I can push without blowing my engine...

If you can't afford it now, wait until you can.
 

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How much boots is safe for my WRX?

I have...
1. Turbo XS Utec with Utec controller
2. turbo xs aux boost control
3. GT Spec headers and up pipe
4. Random Technologies down and mid pipe
5. Aem cold air intake
6. APS blow off valve
7. Go Zigen Mid back exhaust

I am running about 15 psi right now but I met a fellow with similar mods and he is at 18. Properly tuned, is 18 safe. (I realize that it will be more stress on the engine and it will decrease the life of the engine). But by how much? Is 15 the standard people usually run to be safe from propblems?
 

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I think you COULD run 18psi, but you're past the point where it is really helping anything. (The TD04 is no longer efficient at that boost.) Basically you're just blowing hot air.

Both you guys are running basically Stage 2 level of hardware. Get engine management and 16 psi should be safe and useful boost.
 

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18 psi

I appriciate your response. I raced this guy with the 18psi and he destroyed me, so it seemed as though the extra boost was doing something. I am new to the subaru tuning world and all of my aftermarket pieces are new as well, so I don’t know much. Can you explain the difference between stage 2 and stage 3 level hardware and what is “engine management”? Why did this guys beat me if he had the same components? (I have a 2002, his was 2004)
 

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Re: 18 psi

achoniski said:
I appriciate your response. I raced this guy with the 18psi and he destroyed me, so it seemed as though the extra boost was doing something. I am new to the subaru tuning world and all of my aftermarket pieces are new as well, so I don’t know much. Can you explain the difference between stage 2 and stage 3 level hardware and what is “engine management”? Why did this guys beat me if he had the same components? (I have a 2002, his was 2004)
Well, in your particular case you already have engine management, in the form of the UTEC. The original poster didn't have anything listed.

Don't know why you lost. You could have a base map, and he could have a tuned map...who knows?
 

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could be a better shifter... shifting especially on turbo cars is hard to be "new at" it will take time
 

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i can tell you that if you can keep good advance numbers (20-30) between 4k and 7k while running on 20 psi on the oem turbo you WILL make more power than the same setup running on 16psi. butt dyno and dataloglab dyno proven! ;)

the key is keeping your advance AND boost WITHOUT knock. i only recently discovered i could do this with the addition of 10% methanol to sunoco 93 octane. :thumbup:

when people say that the stock turbo is not efficient at "X psi," they are only telling part of the story... efficiencies are related to both pressure ratios AND mass flow rates. in fact, if you look at the shape of the efficiency plots you can see that there are areas (generally a whole quadrant) where INCREASING the pressure ratio will INCREASE efficiency.

obviously the little oem turbo cannot hold 20psi to redline... but i do have datalogs showing it holds more than 1 bar at 7k (which most folks assume is impossible). it's overspinning for sure, but they're cheap enough with everyone buying bigger ones!

jm2c
ken
 

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ride5000 said:
obviously the little oem turbo cannot hold 20psi to redline... but i do have datalogs showing it holds more than 1 bar at 7k (which most folks assume is impossible). it's overspinning for sure, but they're cheap enough with everyone buying bigger ones!
I hear what you're saying, but VF series turbos are so cheap now, and the swap out is pretty easy. Just can't see going to all sorts of trouble to try to wring out a few more measly hp out of a TD04.
 
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