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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just arrived at my destination after an 1 hr 15 min drive. I had my AP plugged in because I just did the intake silencer delete mod and I was monitoring the IAT.
About 30 mins in to the drive I got stopped at a light and switched the AP to display the Dynamic Advance Multiplier. I was shocked to discover that it was only at 5. :whoa:
So, I pulled off into a parking lot, reset the ECU using the AP and performed the shiv trick to bring the DAM back up to 16. I then went back to watching the IAT.
Upon arriving at my destination, 45 mins later, I switched back over and saw that the DAM had gone back down to 8.
Apparently, my ECU is :unhappy:. Why is it dipping so low and how do I keep it up?

EDIT: Large piece of information I forgot and may be helpful: I just installed a Crucial UP, Shorty DP and flashed to COBB stage 2 91 ACN last weekend.
 

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Could be a bunch of stuff. Is everything tight between the MAF and the turbo? Good fuel filter etc.? Anything that might make it lean, or too much oil leaking out of the turbo etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I forgot the most obvious, bad tank of gas?

Clean the MAF?

You can see excess oil if it drains out of the intercooler, a little is ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I forgot the most obvious, bad tank of gas?

Clean the MAF?

You can see excess oil if it drains out of the intercooler, a little is ok.
Yeah, it could just be a crappy tank of gas, although I always thought Chevron was pretty good.

I didn't notice an alarming amount of oil in the intercooler last time I had it off, and I did check.
 

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The DAM/IAM drops due to knock. Thats the only reason it drops. Your car is knocking. Could be the gas.

The Shiv trick is a 'false' way to get the IAM/DAM back up, one or two WOT pulls should get the IAM/DAM back up to 16 IF the ECU does not see knock during those pulls. I would not recommend using the the Shiv trick.

In order to determine whether your knock is timing based or fuel based you'd need to be able to log timing with Romraider(you can use your AP cable) & borrow someones WBO2 if you know someone with one.
 

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In order to determine whether your knock is timing based or fuel based you'd need to be able to log timing with Romraider(you can use your AP cable) & borrow someones WBO2 if you know someone with one.
+1

RomRaider will log all 3 (or is it 4?) ways your car compensates for knock. IAM is only one of them. It's really easy to use too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am currently in the process of learning how to data log with RomRaider Logger and my AP cable.

Unfortunately, I don't have a WBo2 and don't know anyone that does. :sadwave: Can I still extract meaningful data from a log without the WBo2?

I thought you could hear it when your car is knocking, no?
 

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Can I still extract meaningful data from a log without the WBo2?

I thought you could hear it when your car is knocking, no?
yes, you'll at least know where its knocking, just maybe not why.

generally no, at least not with a noisey exhaust.
 

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When I was having a similar problem I posted some logs and it was some help, but ultimately you need to figure out what is mechanically wrong or get a tune that negates it.

If you want to figure out if you have a persistent issue, you can pull a plug and look at the size of the little balls with a magnifying glass - the melted material from your cylinder gets stuck on the electrode.

I am interested to hear what parameters to log to isolate the issue to fuel or timing - that would be a big help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I finally found a chunk of time to go out to the garage and figure out how to log using my AP v2 cable........no dice. :sadwave:

I couldn't get my laptop to connect to the ECU using RomRaider or ecuExplorer. So, no data logging for me. :(

My DAM is still at 7 right now, but I am still on the same tank of gas.
 

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I finally found a chunk of time to go out to the garage and figure out how to log using my AP v2 cable........no dice. :sadwave:

I couldn't get my laptop to connect to the ECU using RomRaider or ecuExplorer. So, no data logging for me. :(

My DAM is still at 7 right now, but I am still on the same tank of gas.
I've heard the AP V2 cable isn't likely to work. Something they changed in it for the new AP. The V1 cable will work though, or a Tactrix cable.
 

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It works for some. No one knows why it works for some people but not for others.
If you were a bit closer I would let you borrow my cable. :)

I guess I could ship it to you to log your stuff.. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Speaking of Tactrix cables, has anyone looked 'em up recently?

tactrix

WTF? $169. It's cool that they have this new product with a host of features (it logs straight to microSD :cool:) but it sucks that they stopped selling the old, cheaper one.

(unless it's still there somewhere and I'm just missing it)

EDIT: I read up; the old one is no longer available, out of stock and no longer being produced.
 

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Tactrix

Hey DUB, i've got a tactrix cable you can borrow or buy from me. I never could get it to work with my Mac. Are you in South Lake Tahoe? I am just down the hill in Reno.

Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
more to the story

So a little update.....

Cliff's Notes: Can nothing more than a hot intake charge cause my Dynamic Advance to fall?

I made my original post from the Reno airport, my DAM had gone down somewhere along the drive.
From South Lake Tahoe to Reno you drop about 1700 ft and it is usually way hotter in Reno.
So on the way back up to Tahoe I was keeping on eye on the DAM and it climbed back up to 10, where it stayed for a few days.
Last week I went out for a little drive on one of my favorite desolate highways, it was a nice cool night. After a little spirited run (I wasn't going too hard for fear that it was detonating) the DAM was back up to 16. yay!
The very next day I headed back down to Reno to buy an Openport cable from mrevans (thanks) and once I got back down into the valley I watched my DAM drop like a stone again. At one point I think it even got down to 1 :whoa:.
I filled up with known "good" gas and headed back up to Tahoe again. Once I got back into the basin, it was nice and cool. I did two wide open runs and just like that, DAM back to 16.
I have formulated a little theory: Is it possible that my ECU pulls timing simply because of the change in atmospheric pressure as well as a hotter intake charge?
 

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So a little update.....

Cliff's Notes: Can nothing more than a hot intake charge cause my Dynamic Advance to fall?

I made my original post from the Reno airport, my DAM had gone down somewhere along the drive.
From South Lake Tahoe to Reno you drop about 1700 ft and it is usually way hotter in Reno.
So on the way back up to Tahoe I was keeping on eye on the DAM and it climbed back up to 10, where it stayed for a few days.
Last week I went out for a little drive on one of my favorite desolate highways, it was a nice cool night. After a little spirited run (I wasn't going too hard for fear that it was detonating) the DAM was back up to 16. yay!
The very next day I headed back down to Reno to buy an Openport cable from mrevans (thanks) and once I got back down into the valley I watched my DAM drop like a stone again. At one point I think it even got down to 1 :whoa:.
I filled up with known "good" gas and headed back up to Tahoe again. Once I got back into the basin, it was nice and cool. I did two wide open runs and just like that, DAM back to 16.
I have formulated a little theory: Is it possible that my ECU pulls timing simply because of the change in atmospheric pressure as well as a hotter intake charge?
That is interesting. Like you, I have a fairly decent elevation/temp change when I drive between St. George and Enterprise. (Enterprise 5500 ft. vs St. George 2200 ft.) I make this drive almost everyday, and have never really noticed much of a difference, but I have never logged. Now I'm curious. Maybe when I get back from vacation, I'll do a little logging, and we can compare notes.
 
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