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Kill detonation – not performance! Forced induction increases throttle response and power throughout the entire rpm range. Unfortunately, more power equals more heat! Most people simply retard the timing to lower the heat, which results in power loss. Our liquid intercooling water injection system gives you the best of both worlds, with highly advanced timing for horsepower and a mist of water that lowers temperatures up to 100 degrees.

Here are the install instructions

I talked to Jackson Racing who makes / sells it and they didn't know if it would work or not. I would think it would....

http://www.jacksonracing.com/graphics/products/instructions/989-950.pdf

Any info would be appreciated!
 

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Given a proper install, it should work. I ran a simple water injection system with the turbo kit on my 2.5 RS. It worked quite well.
 

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I really like the JRSC stuff, personally. That would be pretty neato if you got it to work, Louis.
 

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Louis -

Sure, I'm willing. However, I don't know how much help I'm going to be. I'm sure this is a completely different setup than what I used.

There are definately a couple questions I would ask JR.

* How is it actuated? Mine was setup to run when I hit 7psi. I imagine that you would want a much higher threshold for yours (17psi or so?). Can their system handle an acuating pressure that high? I can't imagine too many aftermarket Honda SC kits pushing boost that high. (for very long anyway. :) )

* What is the suggested entry point for the water?
 

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Dizzy said:
Louis -

Sure, I'm willing. However, I don't know how much help I'm going to be. I'm sure this is a completely different setup than what I used.

There are definately a couple questions I would ask JR.

* How is it actuated? Mine was setup to run when I hit 7psi. I imagine that you would want a much higher threshold for yours (17psi or so?). Can their system handle an acuating pressure that high? I can't imagine too many aftermarket Honda SC kits pushing boost that high. (for very long anyway. :) )

* What is the suggested entry point for the water?
If it is indeed the 1S kit it comes with this

ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE SWITCH
This switch determines the point where the system starts to inject. It is normally fitted to the vacuum side of the inlet manifold (2D mode) for applications where load signal (throttle angle sensor) or manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is available. The switch is a 'normally-closed' type, adjustable range is between 3-30psi, factory set at 10psi.

Thanks Pace, I'll PM him too
 

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Louis,
I also have a contact out here in Colorado that is helping me put a system together he has come very highly reccomended to me buy a few people. PM me if you want his name and number. Also we are piecing together a system so I can have a larger pump with all the goodies on it. It is going tobe a lot cheaper than the acquiamist systme as well.
 

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subbysti said:
Louis,
I also have a contact out here in Colorado that is helping me put a system together he has come very highly reccomended to me buy a few people. PM me if you want his name and number. Also we are piecing together a system so I can have a larger pump with all the goodies on it. It is going tobe a lot cheaper than the acquiamist systme as well.
How much cheaper? I may be interested as well.
 

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Not to detract from your guys' project, but I also looked at building my own WI setup as did Leo. Some things to bear in mind is that the Aquamist components are designed specifically for a WI application. In particular, the pump is extremely lightweight and compact and furthermore it utilizes an impeller-less magnetic design that offers a number of advantages; including extended duty life and resistence to corrosion. Secondly, the Aquamist nozzles provide a far superior spray pattern than you'll achieve by going the DIY route. Finally, their system is pretty modular and facilitates a logical upgrade path that will allow you to later add sophisticated boost and injector duty-referenced controllers, and other goodies.

Just some things to think on.

-Pace
 

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correct me if I'm wrong

The check valve is there so you don't hydro lock you engine.
If the valve was not there the water would siphon (sp?) out of the tank and build in your intake tract, thus causing a large amount of water to flow into the engine on start up.
 

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I have looked for appropriate pumps for a DIY system, but everything seems to have too much flow and not enough pressure (shutoff head). That and most are not intended for continuous duty. Have searched McMaster-Carr and the like.

During my quest I learned the best place to install the nozzle(s) is right before the TB. It cools the intake charge further, after the IC has finished. The second best place is at the inlet to the IC. Aquamist actually recommended this location to allow the water droplets to decrease in size, causing less potential wear issues on valves & ports. It does reduce IC effectiveness, making the charge a little hotter, but everything is a compromise. They also said you could have two injection points, of course, since it means more money for them.

Something else I found that may be of interest, especially in CO. You can DIY a system that uses boost pressure as the motive force, siphoning the water from the supply tank. The pros are no pump necessary, and good cooling at low humidity. The cons are injection must be before the turbo compressor, causing the potential for massive wear, and negating the anti-det benefit of WI in the first place.
 

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it should work

I asked the same questions when that kit was posted for sale --- never got any useful info back.

Any WI kit should work, it is really not that complicated to set up.

I am also running a home built WI system now.

The setup you run will depend on what you are trying to accomplish with the WI.

Many people believe there is only "one" way to set them up and that WI only does one thing --- that is incorrect.

Choice of injection point, nozzles etc. depends on what your intentions are, and what the car your working with allows you to do.

If you insist on putting the pump in the engine compartment the ERL pump is probably a good choice. I think the aquamist systems are mostly over kill and more complicated than they need to be. I am also not impressed with the flow capacity of the pump. An $89 shurflo pump has a lot more reserve capacity, and the Buick GN and a lot of other guys get along just fine with them.

The SMC setup is also a good choice if you want a kit setup.


Larry
 

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Shurflo

No I'm using the shurflo pump 8000-543-238, 1.6 GPM open flow,100 psi shutoff. I can get them for about $90 including shipping.

I have no puddling because I am not controlling flow with the pump, I have a solenoid right at the jet to control flow the WI system is always pressurized (when I have it switched on).

I am thinking about building a kit for the WRX, and have chased down most of the parts already. I am currently trying out some different setups. If any of you guys want to do some testing on setups PM me.

Larry
 
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