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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there again clubwrx! Before I get crap for starting a new thread, I'd like to go on the record and say that I looked through many forums searching for answers but I couldn't find much. Most of the threads died out and the thread starter never went back and explained what it was. Anyways...I was getting a code P0345 for my drivers side cam sensor. I replaced it yesterday and everything was good. Went and filled up my car, it was running perfectly.

I got home, pulled into my driveway and BAM...started idling super rough. I assumed I had a vacuum leak because I had the intercooler off to do the cam sensor and I figured I probably knocked a line off. After verifying that they were all good, I finally got my car to throw 3 codes: a P0011 (having to do with the right hand intake cam position being off) and a misfire for both cyls 1 and 3. Out of curiosity I started reading and found a lot of information about troublesome AVCS (Active valve control system) faults. I started monitoring cyl roughness on all 4 cyls, as well as ACVS input for both sides. To my surprise, the right was running about 59 DEGREES advanced, while the left side sat at 0 as it should. There were an insane amount of misfires on cyls 1&3.

I tried unplugging the solenoid, no change...I looked at the filter under the banjo bolt (I read that these are a common point of issue for the ACVS system) and it was damaged so I removed it. I also cleaned the cam sensor on the right side. The misfires stopped, and I took the car out....same thing. Dying at idle, misfiring, etc. I pulled codes and this time got the 2 misfire codes for 1&3, but the cam position code was gone. An interesting code popped up though...a po171- system extremely lean. This makes me think that MAYBE, just maybe, I have some sort of fuel blockage on the passenger side, and the ACVS is trying to compensate by advancing the timing extremely. I'd like some suggestions on what to do next troubleshooting wise. I was going to check my timing via a timing light but I honestly wasn't sure how due to the lack of spark plug wires...could I just use the #1 coil wire? Thanks in advance! And thank you for reading.
 

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Could be a fuel line issue, maybe something loose in the wiring to the injectors? I'm not sure just stabbing in the dark honestly

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I'm not going to pretend I know, but it couldn't hurt. Cobb also offers supreme support for the AP, if you email them your findings they may be able to better guide you as to what else to look at.

There is also the chance you have a huge leak at one tgv, similar to my problem.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So today I tried eliminating some obvious sources of a rough idle/stalling issue. I cleaned my idle air control valve (I already did my MAF the other day) and am eliminating possible sources of boost leaks. While taking off my throttle body, I broke the gasket thinking I wouldn't need it (oops) and I'm now waiting on parts. In the mean time, I wanted to post a quick datalog to see if maybe somebody watching this thread saw anything that gave anything away. Although it may sound obvious, when the RPMs drop to 0 in the log, that's when the car stalled. My AFR looks like it's kind of all over the place so I'm thinking that maybe it is in fact a bad boost leak. Also not sure what's up with my timing...Thanks in advance for your responses!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SOLVED...I think??

I took my throttle body and intercooler off to clean the throttlebody. Plenty of crap in there and I feel much better about it now. Had to wait for a throttle body gasket but today I put the car back together with the new gasket and a new IC coupler and...same thing. Wasn't dying but the idle was quite rough. Got a little ways down the street, and reset my ECU...still weird, but much less erratic. After a few stops it smoothed out and it's back to normal. Little low so I used the AP to boost it 50RPMs just because. I'll be ordering a new 90 boot for the y pipe under my IC because it's all ripped and I don't think it's sealing. Otherwise all is well...hopefully it stays this way! If it's all good for the next few days I'm going to reflash back to the stage 2 tune. I went back to stock just for troubleshooting purposes, and it didn't change a thing before the cleaning and new coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well yesterday it started acting up again...and I was so sure that it was a leak, I messed with the connection between my y pipe and my turbo inlet. BAM. Held boost like never before and ran like a dream. Last night on my way home...roll up to a light and it's back to idling like crap and reading lower on the vac gauge. I've messed with it for a long time now and I can't get it all sealed up again it seems...AFR is way off. Can I assume this is a leak that needs fixed somewhere? All signs are pointing to a huge leak somewhere but I can't seem to pinpoint it. I'll be replacing this hose ASAP but with the use of some tape I'm pretty sure it's sealed and the car is STILL idling so rough it shakes the whole car. No codes yet though. Some input would be nice!!
 

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