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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just joined the community having picked up a 2011 STI, Pearl Blue/w 140k on it. I currently own an 07 G35 coupe, and an 02 Nissan Spec V

The car was pre-modded with...
Cobb intake
Coilovers (looks like crappy Racelands)--- I plan to trash those and upgrade to Ohlins which appears to be the best option after searching the forum
2.4 Perrin turbo inlet
Turbo back exhaust (unknown brand)

I drove the car around for a week or 2 to get used to it and test the reliability, I also took it to the gurus at Andrewtech since I live near the shop (luckily) to give it a once over and before I add any mods like the Cobb AP. I had them do a compression and leak down test which checked out good on the compression within specs
Cylinder 1-4 ...145 psi

Leak down test
Cylinder 1-2,4 ... 10% degraded
Cylinder 3 ... 15% degraded

The radiator needs replacement (no biggie) just normal wear i.e discoloration and bent fins

Andrewtech wants to tear into the engine (the head) to see what the issue is with cylinder 3 est was $6k-$25k. Too rich for my blood, so I was thinking maybe just get a IAG stage 1 head for 3k and then have AT install it to save on the costs of troubleshooting a stock head & repair.


What do you guys think? and happy to be aboard!





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It's probably dead because it's been driving around with an intake and no tune. Odds are high the ringlands cracked. That's the typical cause.

You are looking at a solid 10k dollar bill to fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's probably dead because it's been driving around with an intake and no tune. Odds are high the ringlands cracked. That's the typical cause.

You are looking at a solid 10k dollar bill to fix that.
<Luke from Star wars voice> NOOOOoooooooooooo!

And the only way to confirm is pull the head off, do you think the short block is ok?

I can see the expense of just getting the IAG head and pay the labor costs for install. I thinks that's the best course, do you agree?
 

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well you are not that far from IAG if you are close to gaithersburg. (IAG in westminister)...

i'd say call them and see what they have to say. maybe you can take your car up to them and they may have a shop nearby that will do everything for you. (recommendation)

gratz on the new subie great lookin car

p.s. if you are in virginia, the best place around is in sterling ... it's called Mach V
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well you are not that far from IAG if you are close to gaithersburg. (IAG in westminister)...

i'd say call them and see what they have to say. maybe you can take your car up to them and they may have a shop nearby that will do everything for you. (recommendation)

gratz on the new subie great lookin car

Oh boy... I didn't know IAG was near there, thanks a million! and I will def call them for sure. Thanks the car is failry clean...just slight cosmetic blemishes the camera didn't up, interior is good with zero tears or excess wear on the seats

The car does ride good power wise. I do need a boost gauge to see where the boost is cutting off lbs wise since the previous owner did have a Cobb AP at some point (guessing) I'm thinking @XJman is correct on the no tune issue. Actually I think I should get the Cobb AP just for the monitoring what you think?

I'll email IAG tonight for an appointment.

I'm hoping this won't turn into a big repair, and what you and XJman are saying just kicked me in the balls.

And thanks again for the recommendation (headed)
 

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try to stay out of the boost for now... i know it's tempting lol. these cars are so much fun each one has it's own little attitude and personality.
but... because if there is an underlying issue and the engine "goes" it takes the turbo with it sometimes, and solenoids and stuff.
just driving regular you should be fine though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
try to stay out of the boost for now... i know it's tempting lol. these cars are so much fun each one has it's own little attitude and personality.
but... because if there is an underlying issue and the engine "goes" it takes the turbo with it sometimes, and solenoids and stuff.
just driving regular you should be fine though!

You're right the boost is fun especially that scoobie rumble when it kicks in. sadly I'll prob not drive it for the time being until it's fully looked into (damn). I'm just learning about the EJ25 and its baked in weakness. If it's just a head issue I'll be happy which sounds like it may be considering the compression is within spec.
 

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I hope it isn't that bad either. But be prepared for reality. Owners are the biggest failure points on Subarus. Poor modification is the number one cause followed closely by lack of maintenance.

IAG is a good place with a solid knowledge and product selection for Subarus. The tgv deletes I had on my 2011 were machined beautifully, I would have been proud to have that quality come out of my tool shop.

This is also why you get these tests completed before you buy the car.
 

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If you've got the money its worth toughing it out.

Honestly the GR is one of my favorite compacts ever to hit the market. It looked tough and muscle car like with the longer hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't think it's going to be a big issue but I do need to resolve cylinder 3 issue. I surely won't be pumping $$ into it though 5-6k incl labor is my cutoff, I did take into account the mileage on it that if I wanted to keep it long term I would need to look into engine reinforcement/upgrades and repair as needed knowing $$ would be involved, however what I didn't know was all the minute idiosyncrasies of the EJ25 platform. I agree the GR is a sweet platform and taking into account Subaru isn't making any of them any more makes them a keeper.

The car runs good and strong with the body and interior very sound so I'll see exactly what's going on and do everything the right way. Luckily I'm near the Scoobie gods Andrewtech and IAG so that alone is a big win over a shade tree mechanic working on it! (me included)😀
And thanks @22Rex_Red and you for your valuable input, I really appreciate the advice (y)
 

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Unfortunately IAG no longer works on customer cars. Andrewtech is the closest shop certified by IAG to install their parts and tune. Andrewtech built and tuned my STi and are great to work with. IAG still makes all of their products (i.e. short blocks, long blocks, etc.). You can still call IAG and ask them questions, but these are all questions that Andrewtech more than likely already answered and addressed. If there is a chance of damage to your heads, you can buy a complete long block from IAG to save money on teardown and diagnostics/labor. Just buy a built long block from IAG and have ATA install it. Still will be a 10k+ affair.
 

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Unfortunately IAG no longer works on customer cars. Andrewtech is the closest shop certified by IAG to install their parts and tune. Andrewtech built and tuned my STi and are great to work with. IAG still makes all of their products (i.e. short blocks, long blocks, etc.). You can still call IAG and ask them questions, but these are all questions that Andrewtech more than likely already answered and addressed. If there is a chance of damage to your heads, you can buy a complete long block from IAG to save money on teardown and diagnostics/labor. Just buy a built long block from IAG and have ATA install it. Still will be a 10k+ affair.
I thought Andrewtech was their shop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Unfortunately IAG no longer works on customer cars. Andrewtech is the closest shop certified by IAG to install their parts and tune. Andrewtech built and tuned my STi and are great to work with. IAG still makes all of their products (i.e. short blocks, long blocks, etc.). You can still call IAG and ask them questions, but these are all questions that Andrewtech more than likely already answered and addressed. If there is a chance of damage to your heads, you can buy a complete long block from IAG to save money on tear down and diagnostics/labor. Just buy a built long block from IAG and have ATA install it. Still will be a 10k+ affair.

Yes sir Andrewtech is good to work with. I did speak with IAG this week but they didn't mention they no longer work on customers cars. Not a problem actually since At is nearby. The good thing is I don't need a replacement engine or head right now as the numbers are with range within range for a car of its year an mileage. However I do plan on replacing it since I want to keep it much longer instead of rebuilding heads and such. It's more cost effective to get a long block from IAG and have At drop it in instead of tearing the engine apart.

Which is originally what At and I discussed but considering I want a tad bit more HP (reasonable 350-380) but with IAG long block I'l l have the potential of 550hp if I choose (pending budget). I think this is the best route to take.

@22Rex_Red ...... I saw the IAG sale this morning when I was browsing from work. I was a kid with hi face pressed against the glass looking at the shiny new bike! Tempting, as I would basically then have a new car..lol
 

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I thought Andrewtech was their shop?
Nope. They are two separate entities. When IAG stopped doing customers cars they got with andrewtech and made them a gold dealer and installer of IAG parts. However, a few years ago AMS in gaithersburg merged with Andrewtech. That's when ATA got a dyno and a tuner. Prior to that, turboxs was the source to tune all of ATA's builds.
 

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Yes sir Andrewtech is good to work with. I did speak with IAG this week but they didn't mention they no longer work on customers cars. Not a problem actually since At is nearby. The good thing is I don't need a replacement engine or head right now as the numbers are with range within range for a car of its year an mileage. However I do plan on replacing it since I want to keep it much longer instead of rebuilding heads and such. It's more cost effective to get a long block from IAG and have At drop it in instead of tearing the engine apart.

Which is originally what At and I discussed but considering I want a tad bit more HP (reasonable 350-380) but with IAG long block I'l l have the potential of 550hp if I choose (pending budget). I think this is the best route to take.

@22Rex_Red ...... I saw the IAG sale this morning when I was browsing from work. I was a kid with hi face pressed against the glass looking at the shiny new bike! Tempting, as I would basically then have a new car..lol
Yeah I like them there at ATA alot. They have treated me well. It's been a few years since they built my car. Currently a little over 700whp and still going strong. But she is a garage queen and only sees <4k miles a year.
 

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i have to baby my engine i have other fish to fry first... trans rebuild. i put a new shifter in but the prev owner already damaged the trans. so if i need to baby the engine for a year that means i need timing belt lol.

i did get goodies off the brown truck today though!
south bend clutch stage 2 endurance
comes with flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing

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so no new shiny engine for me this year lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah I like them there at ATA alot. They have treated me well. It's been a few years since they built my car. Currently a little over 700whp and still going strong. But she is a garage queen and only sees <4k miles a year.
I think I need to read your build thread, is your total costs listed there? 700hp! niiice man. My goal is 400hp which is more affordable for me. I wasn't aware of the ATA merger and I agree, they treated me good as well. Wish I had jumped on the subie scene earlier.

I'm down in Southern Md Ft Washington area right smack dab in the middle of Andrewtech and Fastwrx (Mach V) in Sterling Va

How does your 2012 ride/handle with that amount of hp, is it like a cat on grease? :D
 
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