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Discussion Starter #1
I had my car(2002 WRX) at the dealership for past 5 days getting some paint scratches repaired from a break in incident. There was just a window broken and the guy ran off, so no other damage.

I finally got my car back today and on my way home my check engine light came on and my RPMS just dropped and engine cut off. I pulled off the side of the road and could restart the car, but the engine light came on, but the car would die as soon as i revved up at all over idle. Everything sounded perfectly fine, before this happened. I reset the ECU and it started up fine, and i could rev, but after about 10 secs the light came on and the engine shut down again. It would stay at idle tho, no problem.

All i have done is a gutted Stock uppipe with the stock EGT sensor, and the intake silencer deleted.

I have to wait till tomorrow to get the engine code pulled from the dealer, i just want a heads up if anyone has an idea what could be wrong. THanks for any info!

I have had no problems with the car before at all. Is there something the dealer could have done just by working on the right side front passenger door?
 

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my guess is its a loose/broke grounding wire. Check the one(maybe more) on the manifold(top of engine).
I forgot to put mine back on once, and I had the opposite effect as you. It wouldnt idle, but I could rev, so I dunno. Just a guess.

Keep us posted on what happens.
 

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Take that shizzle back to Jim Reed and get on 'em!! ;)

I think my car's gonna be spending a few weeks up there if I have to get my 4th synchro replaced (AGAIN) and if they'll actually do it, heh.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hehe, thats exactly what ive done. I almost thinking it is the EGT sensor gone dead from my gutted uppipe. If it is, i hope they just replace it and dont notice i gutted it. I dont know how Jim Reed is with warranties and such.
 

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I had this problem once. I did the 2.2k mod and it hasn't happened since. Have you recently installed the uppipe?

Just do a search for "2.2k" Its an easy mod that costs like 30 cents.
 

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forsaken said:
Hehe, thats exactly what ive done. I almost thinking it is the EGT sensor gone dead from my gutted uppipe. If it is, i hope they just replace it and dont notice i gutted it. I dont know how Jim Reed is with warranties and such.
An EGT sensor code shouldn't be causing this problem, right? All those codes are just for cat efficiency. I think. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. This soundsl ike an electrical problem more than mechanical. Check your Throttle Body Position sensor... might be messed a bit. I know a guy who had a problem with that and his car idled all funny.
 

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Blue2004WRX said:
An EGT sensor code shouldn't be causing this problem, right? All those codes are just for cat efficiency. I think. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. This soundsl ike an electrical problem more than mechanical. Check your Throttle Body Position sensor... might be messed a bit. I know a guy who had a problem with that and his car idled all funny.
Wrong, the EGT sensor codes will trigger limp mode. If you're still using the stock sensor with the gutted pipe, it's toast and the direct cause of your problem. I'd lay money on it, I've seen lots of these go bad over the years with catless up-pipes. Don't replace it with another probe, it's a waste of money as it will just die again, it's not designed to withstand the catless environment like a normal T or K type thermocouple. In the short term you can unplug the sensor at the harness and drive to Radio Shack to get your 2.2k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor. Back the probe out carefully, snip the tip of the probe off, then snug the "plug" you've created back into the up-pipe. Then install your resistor in the probe receptacle.
 

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Ah, I forgot about limp mode! But, I'm pretty sure limp mode doesn't cause the motor to stall. Isn't that the whole point of limp mode? It keeps you in open loop and doesn't let you rev above a certain RPM, so that you can get home or to the dealer to fix the problem?
 

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I've had experience with both possible faults: the grounding wire wouldn't even let my car idle or start, the probe fault (whatever the code was for engine fire) behaved the same way as his. Note that there are several types of probe code that can be thrown, one is an engine fire code, others have to do with probe functioning out of range for a period of time. It's possible that the probe malfunction leads to limp mode and the more serious one just plain kills the engine. I'd have to talk to a service tech to confirm this though. I have heard of people that have driven home in limp mode before as a result of the EGT probe fault, but I'm not sure exactly which number it is. I believe 1301 is fire 1312 is malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well i talked to one of the techs working with my car and he said they were getting a low voltage code. he didnt give me the exact code as he said the other guy pulled it. So i dont know.
 

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Lemme know how Jim Reed goes. I had a leak in a hose throwing a 'loose gas cap' code that they fixed. Jerry Petrella is the rep I dealt with and he seemed like a real nice guy. I brought my car in with a complete catless TurboXS exhaust, heh. They didn't seem to give me any crap for it. When they pulled it into their garage/waiting area I thought they were pulling in a Z28 Camaro (since they deal in Chevies) and then I saw my car, hahaha, I was thinking "oh yeah, that rocks."

Low voltage code sounds like something from one of the sensors (EGT or O2). I'm guessing your EGT sensor is kicking the code since you just stuffed it back in. Find a bolt to replace that thing, I had a hell of a time trying to find one but the part number is somewhere on NASIOC; it's something like M125, hell I dunno.

The resistors are $0.99 at Radio Shack and are easy to put in with needle nose pliers. Bend each end in a U-shape (so they're more like prongs) and shove the ends in the socket with the needle nose pliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Tech called, said it was a Bad Oxygen sensor...is that the EGT sensor also? or is that different. He said it was covered by warranty, so sounds like im in the clear as far as that goes. Wewt. Thanks for all the help.
 

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If you somehow spilled coolant down your up-pipe during the installation, you could kill an O2 sensor, probably not the EGT probe. The EGT probe will fail in your application, it's proven time and time again. Always ask for the specific numerical code so you know what you're replacing. You could be just throwing parts at the car, especially if he just replaced your EGT probe.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ive had my uppipe installed for about 8 thousand miles now. i would think it would been killed before then if i spilled something. It is under warranty and they are fixing it as such. He didnt remember the numerical code, and the dealership has the car, so as long as they say its under warranty and are ordering the parts for it at no cost to me, ima just let it lay. hehe.

I wont argue that the EGT is going to die sometime, i had been putting off the resistor fix until i was moved into a house and had a place to work on it. I just wanted to make sure the O2 was definitely unrelated to the EGT.

It may even be the rear O2 sensor, he did not know which one...makes me wonder. I think he was reporting what another tech found, he wasnt directly working on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Turns out it wasn the O2 and it WAS the EGT sensor that died. Thankfully it was all under warranty and didnt cost me a dime. Now to do the resistor fix to it asap so i dont have to go through this again. Live and learn.
 
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