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HELP/ADVICE NEEDED. Trans removal 16' WRX.

6575 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Paidsk8er
Hey guys,

I am right in the middle of upgrading my clutch and flywheel to the ACT HD Street kit. It took me about 4 hours to get the car broken down (axles out, driveshaft out, miscellaneous wires and brackets disconnected, etc). I took my time and also fumbled around with installing my grimmspeed chargepipe along the way.

Now I am stuck. I have tried everything to get this transmission unmarried from the motor but it will not budge, not even a millimeter. I have double checked to make sure I didn't miss a bolt somewhere. I am dead in the water and have decided to call it a night.

If anyone has any suggestions or things I can try in the morning it would be much appreciated!

~Chase
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
All the shifter linkage is out?
Is there that silly pin like in the earlier cars?
All the shifter linkage is out?
There is no direct linkage like on the early models. There are only two cables that run out of the shifter box, down the driver side of the trans and then connect to the front of the passenger side of the trans. I can disconnect those cables if need be but I was under the impression it wasn't neccessary.

Is there that silly pin like in the earlier cars?
Not sure what you are referencing, lol.
I'm just bouncing ideas. Sorry not entirely educated. I've had issues in the past on other cars shifter linkage hanging up removal. I had forgotten the wrx is cable shift.
You did this?

12) Remove the clutch release shaft.
(1) Remove the plug using a hexagon wrench.
(2) Attach a 6 mm (0.24 in) bolt to the release
shaft, and pull out the release shaft.
(3) Lift the release fork, and remove from the
claw of the release bearing. Pull the release
fork to the engine side, and make it so that it
moves freely.
Better yet, here is the entire removal section from my manual. You did all this?

Manual Transmission Assembly
MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL
6. Manual Transmission Assembly
A: REMOVAL
1) Disconnect the ground cable from battery.
2) Remove the intercooler. <Ref. to IN(STI)-13,
REMOVAL, Intercooler.>
3) Disconnect the following harness connectors,
and then remove the engine hanger rear.
4) Remove the secondary air combination valve.
<Ref. to EC(STI)-54, SECONDARY AIR COMBINATION
VALVE LH, REMOVAL, Secondary Air
Combination Valve.>
5) Disconnect the transmission radio ground cord
terminal.
6) Remove the starter assembly. <Ref. to SC(STI)-
7, REMOVAL, Starter.>
7) Remove the operating cylinder from the transmission.
NOTE:
Hang the removed operating cylinder with a piece
of wire.
8) Remove the return spring from the release fork.
9) Remove the pitching stopper. <Ref. to
6MT(TY85)-29, PITCHING STOPPER, REMOVAL,
Transmission Mounting System.>
10) Remove the pitching stopper bracket, return
spring bracket, and transmission radio ground cable.
11) Set the ST.
ST1 41099AA011 ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
ST2 41099AA020 ENGINE SUPPORT
(A) Rear oxygen sensor connector
(B) Neutral position switch backup light switch connector
MT-03088
(B)
(A)
MT-03086
CL-00445
MT-02302
MT-03091
ST2
ST1
6MT(TY85)-32
Manual Transmission Assembly
MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL
12) Remove the clutch release shaft.
(1) Remove the plug using a hexagon wrench.
(2) Attach a 6 mm (0.24 in) bolt to the release
shaft, and pull out the release shaft.
(3) Lift the release fork, and remove from the
claw of the release bearing. Pull the release
fork to the engine side, and make it so that it
moves freely.
13) Remove the center exhaust pipe. <Ref. to
EX(STI)-7, REMOVAL, Center Exhaust Pipe.>
14) Remove the bolts which hold upper side of
transmission to engine.
15) Remove the front wheels.
16) Lift up the vehicle, and remove the transmission
under cover.
17) Drain transmission gear oil completely. <Ref. to
6MT(TY85)-26, REPLACEMENT, Transmission
Gear Oil.>
18) Remove the heat shield cover.
19) Remove the propeller shaft. <Ref. to DS-12,
REMOVAL, Propeller Shaft.>
20) Remove the front stabilizer link.
21) Remove the ball joint of front arm from the
housing.
22) Remove the front drive shaft. <Ref. to DS-48,
REMOVAL, Front Drive Shaft.>
23) Place the transmission jack under the transmission.
CAUTION:
Always support the transmission case with a
transmission jack.
24) Remove the front crossmember and rear crossmember
from the vehicle.
25) Move the transmission to the right side of the
vehicle, and remove the joint COMPL, stay bolts
and reverse check cable.
NOTE:
If the transmission is not moved aside, the joint
COMPL and stay bolts may contact the body and
cause damage.
MT-01524
FS-00117
FS-00106
(A) Joint COMPL bolt
(B) Stay bolt
(C) Reverse check cable
MT-03193
MT-03194
MT-00886
(C)
(A)
(B)
6MT(TY85)-33
Manual Transmission Assembly
MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL
26) Tighten the turnbuckle of the ST to tilt the engine
assembly towards the back.
27) Remove the bolts and nuts holding the bottom
of transmission to the engine, and remove the
transmission from the vehicle.
NOTE:
• During removal, be careful not to hit the transmission
against the body when pulling towards the
rear.
• The clutch pipe and breather pipe may interfere
with each other. Remove carefully.
28) Remove the transmission cushion rubber from
the transmission assembly.
See less See more
I don't believe that applies to the 15+ trans. I've been over every visible side of the transmission multiple times and haven't been able to find a hex bolt that contains the fork pin like the older models. There is a single hex bolt on the very rear of the trans on the drivers side but it is illogical that this would be the correct pin location. At this point I've hired a mechanic to come out in about an hour to give me a hand removing, swapping the clutch, and reinstalling the transmission. I'm not in a hurry but I have made no progress since 1pm yesterday. I figured it was time to admit defeat. As a side note, I did disconnect the gear selector cables from the shift box. It made no difference.

I'm going to drink a couple beers and stare angrily at my car for the next hour. If he comes across something I missed I'll let you know lol.
Mechanic is a no show so back to square one. Maybe if I go to Hogwarts I can find a wizard to do some abra cadabra magic...
Went back for round 20. After beating the snot out of the trans again, taking a torch to the alignment pins, and spraying an entire can of lube on everything, she is free! Just an FYI, there is no pin like in the older genes. Once the bolts are out of the trans and you've done all the other crap, she is theoretically free to come out.
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