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Your question is vague and lacks any true direction.

Are you asking about brake horsepower or wheel horsepower? On what dyno? During which season? On what fuel? With what budget?

Horsepower targets are silly. A dyno is a tool used to recalibrate the ECU, not to brag about numbers. Try a real goal like Trap Speed if you want to measure a car's acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can appreciate everyone has their own opinion. But ur answer didn?t have to be like a ****? I was simply asking if anyone had a current set up that produces around 415hp. And just a list of mods to research for myself or something I could even match if it?s a solid combo. I?m not worried about a budget, but I?m not trying to spend 20k, which should be no where near that much. But I was looking for WHP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And I would like to stay with 93 octane but would be open if someone had a specific set up and E85 was solid with it.
 

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Set aside at least $7k for a motor rebuild.

Even still, I'm not sure you understand what horsepower means or how it is measured. Like I said previously, setting a goal of horsepower is nebulous at best. You need to be considerate of the powerband, the dyno, the conditions, and the tuner.

Is the reason you set a goal of "415hp" so that you can brag to your friends? Is there some deeper motive here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
? Not for bragging rights? Trying to find the most reliable set up and trying to get more out of a more than capable car? I don?t want to push it to the max but I want to be able to enjoy it. 415 will produce enough to have plenty of fun with it, but will be more safe than 600hp and breaking everything. 415 is a round about. It was just a ball park figure. Jus would like a beefy daily driver but it sees more garage than the road. I have a work truck. But I don?t want a full race car.
 

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What mods are on the car right now?

The most reliable setup is keeping the car stock and also benefiting from a warranty. There are some modifications that improve volumetric efficiency (intake, exhaust, TGV deletes, etc.) and these are generally safe SO LONG AS the ECU is properly mapped for the modifications. The measure of mean cylinder pressure -- brake mean effective pressure (BMEP) -- is directly tied to torque output. The higher the BMEP outside of designed specifications, the more the motor's longevity is threatened. There is no magic number only basic rules of thumb. If you want to keep it reliable, you would be best in not modifying at all. 415whp on most dynos will put the engine is serious danger territory -- that is nearly double the factory output!!

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This is Zax being nice and giving you informed advice from his years of financial suffering.

Cheapest way to get 400whp is to buy a C5 Corvette !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All I have done is a nameless downpipe, invidia N1 cat back, cobb short ram intake, and a turbosmart dual port BOV. Jus very basic. With an OTS cobb map
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes sir they do. I?ve been as cautious as I could be. Jus looking for more guidance as I move on. And I?m thinking I should aim more towards 415hp to the crank. I don?t wanna over do it, but want something fun. And if someone pulls up beside, I wanna be able to handle my own. Jus something to enjoy. I appreciate everyone?s involvement already!
 

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First mods involving a bov are a sure way to have a bad time


What you are asking for is basically a bolt on 20G tuned safely on E85 with all supporting mods which will cost you over $2500 then you are pushing on the long term reliability of your engine.
 

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Personally, I would upgrade my oil cooling system and stuff like that next. then go to a bigger turbo and E85 with a proper tune.
9 times out of 10, those that modify the oil cooling system are doing so in a bad way.

The oil system isn't thermostatically controlled like coolant -- you want oil to warm up quickly and stay warm during all driving conditions. Over-cooling the oil is a real danger and can cause significant premature wear of internal components.

The EJ never really had oil overheating concerns like the newer FA20. Before slapping on a larger oil cooler, you would be well advised to increase oil capacity first. There are several reputable brands that produce a larger capacity sump.
 

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9 times out of 10, those that modify the oil cooling system are doing so in a bad way.

The oil system isn't thermostatically controlled like coolant -- you want oil to warm up quickly and stay warm during all driving conditions. Over-cooling the oil is a real danger and can cause significant premature wear of internal components.

The EJ never really had oil overheating concerns like the newer FA20. Before slapping on a larger oil cooler, you would be well advised to increase oil capacity first. There are several reputable brands that produce a larger capacity sump.
Agreeed, I was talking more along the lines of the smaller things people overlook when pushing 400+hp when everything is made and tuned for around 305hp from the factory. Its like steroids.... if you never lift, and have smaller, weaker ligaments then introduce 20lbs of muscle at once, the weakest links will bust and cost all the moneys to fix.
 

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I actually have what I think is a passable understanding of all the topics you've mentioned. Steroids are outdated and detection is relatively trivial. The future of doping is in non-steroidal compounds that act as receptor modulators, in non-amine ergogenics, and in effectors involved in IGF-mediated pathways. This is why elite athletes today are asthmatic, diabetic, or both. Also, there is a methyl propionamide compound labeled enabosarm for which reasonable data exist to suggest it will enhance the repair of connective tissue. WADA has had tests for it for nearly a decade though.

415 HP is as random as it is going to be unreliable compared to what you have now. I do support the use of a larger sump though, I can't imagine a scenario where that's a bad idea on a road car. They're costly but the good ones ought to be worth it. I'd do it if I had the money.
 
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