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Master Baiter
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have driven my '05 STi stock for 6 months now, and I'm beginning to get curious just how nice it would be to do a few tasteful mods to the car (my first priority is ensuring I put quality parts on my car that have the least chance of causing any problems, so if I lose some hp by doing this, that's fine) - everyone told me I'd get bored with stock and they were correct. I don't want to be screwing around changing out parts, so I want to make sure they're right the first time. None of these mods would be done for a little while, though.

I only intend on keeping my vehicle for another 3-4 years, so I don't really want to put that much more into it (cost me $26k).

I've read reviews on many parts (SubaruReview), but there aren't many people with STi's posting on there.

Parts I'm considering:

TurboXS Stealth-back with high-flow cat ($700). I have had issues with local police, and I know they like to target aftermarket exhausts. This should allow me to flash StageII, while not drawing any unnecessary attention (leaving the stock STi muffler). The sound of the exhaust isn't that important to me, as much as performance gain without too much attention.

TurboXS Uppipe ($200). Many people recommend StageII and UP to be one of the first performance mods (I believe one of the links in TheJ's signature has this in there).

Cobb AccessPort ($700). This is pretty much the standard for EM (as well as UTEC).

Walbro 255lph fuel pump ($100). This is an item that people recommend when considering a turbo upgrade - I'm not looking to upgrade the turbo, but this could probably net me a little bit. Would the stock injectors work fine with this item? If needed, I'd be willing to upgrade, but I'd rather not (finances).

Perrin lightweight crank pulley ($130). This item has been debated many times, and I figure it'd be an inexpensive way to increase turbo spool a little bit, and it's an easy enough install that I could do it myself without much problem. I've read that "underdriven" pulleys are bad, and they make specific note that this is not underdriven.

TurboXS Universal catch can ($100). I'm not doing too much modification to the engine, so would I really need to do this? This is a longevity mod, and if it would truly be beneficial, I want to do it.

Silencer delete + K&N filter ($100). I would like to increase the sound of the BPV, but I don't want to have the issues with an aftermarket BOV.

SPT high-flow intake + heat shield ($250). I'm aware that this won't really net me performance gain, but this will increase engine noise.

Hawk HPS front/rear pads ($200). Many people have done this upgrade, so I'm not too worried about this one.

Goodridge SS brake lines ($100x2). I have heard good things about this brand. Would I need to get 2 (one for front, one for rear)?

Tein front/rear strut bar ($270). I believe I read that strut bars will have less of an impact on the suspension than sways (though, I'm not looking for anything drastic), but would also increase the aesthetic appeal.

I'd like to get a 3 Defi Blue Racer (I like the sweep and the look of these) gauges. I'm thinking that boost, EGT, and oil temp. Should I go with something else?

A larger TMIC could probably yield a bit of performance, but I don't think the cost-benefit ratio is high enough on a stock turbo (right?).

Once all the performance upgrades are complete, I would like to get a ProTune. I figure all the parts/labor/tune would run me ~$5k.

As I said before, my main goal is to increase the performance of my car, while doing so with longevity first in mind. Do you guys think that any of the parts I'm thinking about have a better alternative?

Thanks.
 

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Super Moderator (Actually a SuperSpy)
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You do not need an up pipe. You do not need a fuel pump. You do not need an intercooler. I'd avoid any pulley. I'd also look at getting the cheapest strut bars available, just be sure to move the A/C line out of the way (skip one hole in the mount bracket and offset the entire bracket by that one hole -- you'll see what I mean when the time comes).
 

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Get the K&N Typhoon Crinkle Red SRI

Do this instead of the silencer delete and K&N Panel Filter. Cost should be close, and it will let you hear the turbo spooling more audibly.

Other than that - looks like you've got a safe route planned.
 

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Master Baiter
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Discussion Starter #4
Micah said:
Get the K&N Typhoon Crinkle Red SRI

Do this instead of the silencer delete and K&N Panel Filter. Cost should be close, and it will let you hear the turbo spooling more audibly.
So instead of doing silencer delete + K&N and buying the SPT intake, you'd suggest going with the K&N Typhoon? If that's the case, would there be much performance/longevity difference in getting the CAI instead of SRI?

Micah said:
Other than that - looks like you've got a safe route planned.
Alright, sounds good. A buddy of mine told me that in terms of exhaust, that my best bet would be to go with Cobb/TurboXS for longevity - is this pretty accurate?

I don't have too many mechanic tools (just the basic jacks, and some sockets), and I don't have a garage I can work on a vehicle in (this would have to be done on my gravel driveway). I haven't done much car work (just the basic oil/tire changes and whatnot), but I'm willing to get my hands dirty a little bit. I can follow directions pretty well (usually), so with a good tutorial and the proper tools, I could probably do some of this work. How much of this stuff is really difficult, and what would you recommend I leave for someone more mechanically-inclined to do for me? Also, would my price estimate of $5000 for all the stuff be a decent ballpark estimate?

SD_GR said:
You do not need an up pipe.
I understand I don't need an uppipe, but removing a cat would increase the flow, and reduce the risk of a cat breaking down and pieces getting into the engine, right?

SD_GR said:
You do not need a fuel pump.
Like with the UP, I understand this isn't something I need, but it's an inexpensive enough part that will help get a little more juice out of StageII (I don't want to start upgrading turbos and whatnot, so I want to take it as far as safely possible). Is this a "sleeper" part in terms of cost in that the part itself isn't too expensive, while the installation cost will not be pretty?

SD_GR said:
You do not need an intercooler.
I figured as much - the only one I found on RallySportDirect was APS, and they want $750 for it.

SD_GR said:
I'd avoid any pulley.
Even the non-"underdriven" ones? Micah - I notice in your mod list, you have a "slightly underdriven" pulley on your car. Are you experiencing any issues with it?

SD_GR said:
I'd also look at getting the cheapest strut bars available, just be sure to move the A/C line out of the way (skip one hole in the mount bracket and offset the entire bracket by that one hole -- you'll see what I mean when the time comes).
Tein was the cheapest of the struts on JSCSpeed, and I believe I read some good reviews on their products.

About the SS brake lines - would I need 2 or just 1?

Thanks for the advice, guys.
 

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I understand I don't need an uppipe, but removing a cat would increase the flow, and reduce the risk of a cat breaking down and pieces getting into the engine, right?

Not relevant for your car. Your existing up pipe does not have a cat. An aftermarket unit is redundant; only the vendor gains, not you.



Like with the UP, I understand this isn't something I need, but it's an inexpensive enough part that will help get a little more juice out of StageII (I don't want to start upgrading turbos and whatnot, so I want to take it as far as safely possible). Is this a "sleeper" part in terms of cost in that the part itself isn't too expensive, while the installation cost will not be pretty?

The stock pump should provide adequate fuel. The installation is not difficult, however it is also not necessary. You only need the fuel you need, and you already have that. A more aggressive fuel map will still work with the stock pump with your parts and needs in mind.


Even the non-"underdriven" ones?
If it's not a factory pulley it's not on my motor. Other opinions are different.
About the SS brake lines - would I need 2 or just 1?

They are typically sold as sets so you need to ask the vendor what is in the set. I've seen them sold as separate fronts and rears as well as full car sets, so it'll vary by product.

By the way, strut bars are sold on the 'bay for spare change plus shipping, have a look around and see what the vendor feedback is, plus search here and on Nasioc for user impressions and then decide if you're interested. It'll save a lot of money if you're happy with them.
 

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I don't have too many mechanic tools (just the basic jacks, and some sockets), and I don't have a garage I can work on a vehicle in (this would have to be done on my gravel driveway). I haven't done much car work (just the basic oil/tire changes and whatnot), but I'm willing to get my hands dirty a little bit. I can follow directions pretty well (usually), so with a good tutorial and the proper tools, I could probably do some of this work. How much of this stuff is really difficult, and what would you recommend I leave for someone more mechanically-inclined to do for me? Also, would my price estimate of $5000 for all the stuff be a decent ballpark estimate?
Most of the stuff just requires basic sockets, and I think pretty much everything on there could be done on your driveway. The only thing that might be more difficult is the fuel pump, but I have no idea what the procedure is like for installing that. You should be able to do it all for less than $5k, especially if you start doing the installation yourself.

I understand I don't need an uppipe, but removing a cat would increase the flow, and reduce the risk of a cat breaking down and pieces getting into the engine, right?
STi's are catless stock, so you have nothing to worry about. It's only 2002-2005 WRX's that have a cat in the uppipe.

Pulleys are highly debated on the forums. I would avoid an underdriven one just to avoid any potential electrical problems, but some people claim that a pulley also serves as a harmonic dampener for the motor. I've also heard that it's just a pulley. I've debated getting one myself, but the potential risks of damage to the motor are enough to convince me to leave the stock pulley in place. It probably won't give you huge gains anyway.

I figured as much - the only one I found on RallySportDirect was APS, and they want $750 for it.
I also think that your stock STi TMIC is perfectly fine for the sort of power levels you're looking at.

Tein was the cheapest of the struts on JSCSpeed, and I believe I read some good reviews on their products.
Strut bars don't make much of a difference, especially on sedans. I have a set of ebay STi-knock off strut bars that do the job and were less than $40 for both front and rear. They all do the same job (and not much of a job), so I would not spend too much on them. If you're really looking for an inexpensive handling mod, I would look into sway bars over strut bars. They aren't too expensive and will make a much larger difference in the handling of the car.

About the SS brake lines - would I need 2 or just 1?
Most places I've seen sell them in a set of 4, so you should only need to order one package. At about $100, that should include all 4 lines, in my opinion. Check with the vendor before ordering.

Thanks for the advice, guys.
No problem... good luck!

EDIT: SD-GR basically just said the same things I did, but apparently he can type faster than me :sadwave:
 

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Master Baiter
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
SD_GR said:
Not relevant for your car. Your existing up pipe does not have a cat. An aftermarket unit is redundant; only the vendor gains, not you.
My bad, I had just looked quick. :p

SD_GR said:
They are typically sold as sets so you need to ask the vendor what is in the set. I've seen them sold as separate fronts and rears as well as full car sets, so it'll vary by product.
Fair enough.

SD_GR said:
By the way, strut bars are sold on the 'bay for spare change plus shipping, have a look around and see what the vendor feedback is, plus search here and on Nasioc for user impressions and then decide if you're interested. It'll save a lot of money if you're happy with them.
Business810 said:
Strut bars don't make much of a difference, especially on sedans. I have a set of ebay STi-knock off strut bars that do the job and were less than $40 for both front and rear. They all do the same job (and not much of a job), so I would not spend too much on them. If you're really looking for an inexpensive handling mod, I would look into sway bars over strut bars. They aren't too expensive and will make a much larger difference in the handling of the car.
I'll skip them all-together, then. Would sway bars be similar to struts, in that eBay-specials would be sufficient?

Thanks again.
 

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By being conservative and not buying unnecessary parts, you'll save lots of money. Since you do have basic tools and at least a driveway, you can DIY a lot, if not all of this stuff given instructions, bandaids, and patience. Tuturials are on here, Nasioc, and Scoobymods. Also check the Cobb forum and site for their details.

Since you've saved money theoretically already and are interested in reliability, I suggest making sure the car is absolutely top notch as far as factory required maintenance is concerned (all fluids, all filters, no leaks, and so on). It'll take a few hundred $ in parts and expendables to perform what a dealer may charge $700 for, and you'll know the car is ready for any additional demands.
 

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Master Baiter
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Discussion Starter #9
SD_GR said:
Since you've saved money theoretically already and are interested in reliability, I suggest making sure the car is absolutely top notch as far as factory required maintenance is concerned (all fluids, all filters, no leaks, and so on). It'll take a few hundred $ in parts and expendables to perform what a dealer may charge $700 for, and you'll know the car is ready for any additional demands.
Sounds good ;)
 

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I'll skip them all-together, then. Would sway bars be similar to struts, in that eBay-specials would be sufficient?
You probably won't find any ebay-special sway bars, but I would justify spending a bit more on them. Cusco, Hotchkis, and Whiteline are all recommended manufacturers, and I would estimate around $300 for both front and rear sway bars combined. Do some research on here and NASIOC and you will find a ton of threads reviewing different brands and talking about different sizes of sway bars. Aside from good tires (which you already should have on your STi, since they come stock with Bridgestone RE-070's), sway bars are the best bang-for-the-buck handling mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Business810 said:
Aside from good tires (which you already should have on your STi, since they come stock with Bridgestone RE-070's)
I have Eagle F1s
 
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