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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mod list to date, 2/22/12

ENGINE

Turbo XS FMIC
Turbo XS RFL BOV
My own 3" blow through set up
My own 3" CAI
My own 3" inlet
JDM reversed 1 piece manifold, no TGV's
Turbo XS CBE i modded for quad tips
Invidia catless DP
QTP 3" cutout
Grimmspeed EWG UP
Tial 38mm EWG
Perrin EL header
Walbro 255
DW 750's
My own modded parallel fuel lines and FPR
KStech air pump delete
Braille 15lb batter
My own AOS
AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
NGK 1 step colder plugs
Perrin light weight pulley
Grimmspeed 8mm spacers


SUSPENSION/DRIVE TRAIN

Koni adjustable sturts
RCE Yellow springs
TS SS
TS front bushings
Kart Boy rear bushing
Perrin subframe lock down
Whiteline diff inserts
Group N tranny mount
TS drive shaft bushings
TiC cross member bushings
TS pitch stop


EXTERIOR/INTERIOR

RH J5 evo 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18
My own front lower grill
My own hood scoop delete
My own front insert vents
My own rear bumper vent
HT auto front lip
JSP CF blade wing
HID 55w 6000k
HIR 9011 brights
SMY cluster bezel
Innovate wide band O2
Pro sport boost gauge





so ive had my 11 for some time but i never posted here about whats been going on. i got rid of the 09 because the interest rate was higher, the payment from a trade in was higher, the car had 36k on the clock and i didnt want to have to redo the motor, tranny, clutch, paint job etc etc. the 11 is costing me a whole bunch less and its nice to have brand new!!!!!!!!!

so i swapped over everything from my 09 to my 11 and i have been busy busy with a bunch of new parts. ill try to add in whats been going on.

Day 1 i went ahead with both cars at home thanks to having friends at the dealer and i swapped over my 15 lb battery, my light weight Racing Hart 18x8.5 +44 wheels and Conti DW 245x35x18, and last my Koni adjustable shocks with RCE Yellows.





[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #2
next i needed to add my TXS CBE but the large 4" single tips were not working for me. so i sold my SPT CBE and i bought some dual tip 304SS Magnaflow tips for about $52 each. i cut off the 4" tips and welded the new ones on. i also made sure the new tips where flush with the bumper. i didnt like how the SPT tips where set back about 2-3" and blackened my bumper. i also had to clean the **** out of my mufflers cause their metal is junk and not a true 304SS!!














 

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Discussion Starter #4
next i decided to make a few things and add a few things. first was a heavy shift knob. i used a trailer ball hitch and its a good 2.2 lbs. i just cut off the threads, drilled and tapped. installed with a short shifter looks great and feels great! everything coming up you'll see i use black wrinkle paint because you cant mess it up and it looks good and you cant hurt this stuff after you bake it.



next i made a AOS that looks and acts just like the $400 Crawford. turned out good for $15!





next i added the SMY gauge bazel with my Prosport boost gauge and Innovate wide band.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
next i decided to do a JDM one peice long runner manifold. i sand blasted the wrinkle red and wrinkle blacked it :) this took a while to set up and make sure i had everything ready to go. i had to make a spacer because the mani used a DBC and i have DBW and the DBC was 12mm bolts while mine was 10mm in a different pattern. also to use 1 of my OEM rails i had to make an adaptor. i also decided to use Grimmspeed 8mm spacers and paralle my fuel lines. it all worked out great but a lot of work!











 

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Discussion Starter #6
painted my front bumper inserts. i was going to vinyl wrap them but i figured it would be really hard for me to tackle alone because of the way the are. picked satin black so not everything is flat black and i dont like gloss black which the one part of the front grill is. i also got my hand grinder and shaved the back of the passanger insert. it was solid plastic. now there is a decent size hole for my CAI it get air from. im pretty sure ill cut the bumper to make the hole even bigger because as you can see its blocking air.







 

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Discussion Starter #7
omg what a ****ty 2 days!! decided to do everything sooner than planned. started at 11am first day and ended at 3am. then 12pm then next day and ended at 1am. so so so much to do by myself. full list of what i had to do...

swap manifolds and reverse the JDM
finish and redo the TB adaptor!!! :(
customize OEM FPR with welding and locating
run fuel lines
remove air pump system
make and customize FMIC piping to fit
find all air leaks from FMIC couplings and clamps, T BOLT CLAMPS CAN SUCK ***************
remove power steering pump and bracket to get the hard 3" inlet pipe to fit, also dent it a little to make it fit.
install AEM 3.5 bar MAP and run wires to make new wire harness
install light weight pulley
install ELH
install EWG UP and EWG and run lines
install CAI
install catless DP
lengthen MAF wires and TB wires, PITA and takes time, boring work
replace coolant that got away when unplugging some lines for more room
zip tie 100 things
replace bolts that got rusted and needed cut off
and last find little crap here and there that needed done or redone and once its all done check and check and check again!!!

after that nightmare i start logging and got about 6 revisions from Eric Minehart from Torqued Performance to get everything running smooth and clean. im really happy now and Eric is a great guy to help out with all this!

next step going to my tuner here and seeing what it will put down. he has a mustang and dynojet so we can compair the dyno's. last tune on my 09 was 330/360 on the dynojet and i didnt have ELH, 3" inlet, 3.5 MAP, 750cc injectors, TGV less. this should be interesting :)

newest pic of the piping










 

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Discussion Starter #8
so i got bored tonight. i was looking at some pics of the Grillcraft stuff and i figured i can do that! so i went to home depot and got some mesh stuff back in the concrete section. 2'x8' is all they had but it was only $7.50. then i got a few 1/4x48" steel rods for $3 a each. ¼” small was really easy to bend in my hands. then i just got to work. bent it where i needed it bent and welded the ends together.

after the bending i cut the mesh and zip tied it down to my outline structure if you will. i tried to weld it but the mesh would just exploded. being paper thin it was just too hard to weld to 1/4" thick rod. then i welded a few 1" rods on and drilled a few holes in my bumper. then i just zip tied everything down but not before i did a few coats of Plasti Dip paint.

the main reasons i want this is my FMIC looks like **** from winters (yes I even tried sanding to remove the corrosion). also when i was cutting my bumper out for the FMIC i slipped twice with the razor blade and made a few boo boo's. now with this dark block kind of thing it hides everything pretty damn good. i just hope in the summer it doesn’t kill my FMIC by not letting it cool off enough. i know people said this was a problem with the Grillcraft piece when running it and a TMIC.

since i no longer have a TMIC i need the hood scope blocked off. i hate how dirty the engine gets in winter and since my TB and mani are reversed my TB connector and wires are exposed right there in the hole. water and snow cannot be good for them. im going to do the same thing with the mesh but im going to then make a plate and block the scoop off all together. i just need some thin steel plate, weld, zip tie, and paint.

what do you guys think? Ill get better pics tomorrow in the sun. well if there is such thing anymore around here!!




 

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Discussion Starter #9
i changed my oil and tranny fluid. i figured id give the tranny a little more break in time (3497 miles) than the motor. im glad i didnt wait any longer. i just hate the idea of break in oils staying in something for so long! i mean the tranny oil stays in there till 30k! i believe subi uses synthetic now for everything (which i dont like the idea for motor oil when its brand new!!) but it was still time for a change.

im keeping with RedLine but i decided to go with 5w40 instead of 5w30. im still getting oil in my turbo compressor like the 09 from the seals so im hoping the thicker weight will be better. this was the motors 2nd change with 3000 miles on it and the first was done at 400 something. next change im going to do an oil analysis and compare it to my 09 results. since i have an AOS now i want to see the results of a full 3000 mile change where water from condensation and blow by are allowed to get back into the block. on the 09 i just had a catch can so nothing could get back. i HOPE everything is the same and the numbers are not too far off.

as for the tranny, since subi now uses synthetic i can say i did not feel a difference like i did on my 09. however for only 3497 miles it looked like ****. our drain plugs are magnetic and i had a ton of metal shavings all over it. you can see in the pics. if you guys haven’t done this yet on brand new trannys id do it ASAP. since the magnet was so covered in metal who knows if there was room for anymore to stick to it. during the drain i hope everything came out if there was something. i used RedLine 75w90 NS per RedLines recommendation. ill be doing the rear diff tomorrow because i dont have a pump to get it into the diff. the diff will use just 75w90. If you do change your tranny fluid be warned, it smells like dead fish and ****. :)





 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
and full parts list to date 11/26/11

EXHAUST
Perrin EL header
GS EWG UP
Tial 38mm EWG
Invidia Catless DP
QTP 3" Cutout in mid pipe
TXS CBE

INTAKE
TXS CAI (just the pipe)
My 3" inlet
TXS FMIC
TXS RFL BOV
My 3" Blow through
JDM manifold, no TGV's
Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers
air pump deleted with kstech block off's
evap system deleted

FUELING
parallel fuel lines
Walbro 255
DW 750cc

SUSPENSION and Drive
Torque Performance SS
My heavy shift knob
Group-N tranny mount
TiC cross bushings
Torque Performance front SS bushings
Kartboy rear SS bushings
Perrin subframe lock down kit
Whiteline diff bushings
RCE Yellow springs 330 lbs
Koni adjustable shocks
18.9 lbs RH evo wheels 18x8.5 +44
Conti DW 245/35/18

MISC.
SMY dual gauge bezel with wide band and boost
Grimmspeed 3-port
AEM MAP
My grill "craft" grill
window strip chrome delete
wingless trunk


SOON to COME
Dom 1.5xtr turbo
20% tint
roof matte black vinyl
CF trunk and hood
HT auto front lip
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
ok i ordered winter tires and wheels yesterday! Can’t wait to see how they do even though we haven't gotten an ounce of snow yet (but we will!!)

i have had Bridgestone WS-60's studdless ice/snow tires on my 09 and i thought they were awesome! i got my wife WS-70's for her 2010 accord last year and they are way better than her OEM tires but for some reason i don’t like them as much on her car. of course she is FWD but it’s the braking im talking about. for some reason it just didn’t seem to stop as well.

last winter i also tried Conti DWS all seasons when I had a spare 18” wheel set. they did make their way through everything but just not that great since they don’t have slits like winters do and of course there all seasons. you just have to stop a little sooner with snow and of course for ice conditions! for dry road conditions they handled really well and were quiet like my Conti DW summer tires. i really like Conti's!!

sadly monies tight so this winter i went with the best/cheapest i could find. I wanted Conti Extreme Winters but price was too high. i always end up buying a tire that gets 1st place for the year and in its category in Tire Racks tests. the tire i went with is the General Tire Altimax Arctic studdable ice/snow. i thought long and hard about which size to get but i ended up going with the cheapest yet still will work for the vehicle.

The stock size is a 235/45/17 which is a 25.3” diameter. My current tire is a 245/35/18 with a 24.8” diameter. I believe the high 24” range is best all around and best for drag racing, weight, rev’s etc. I wish I could have kept close to that number but again, price. Im glad 2 of my friends have 2011 STI’s because I saw that they run a 245/40/18 which is a 25.7” diameter and that tells me this chassis can handle the size. Because you want a thinner tire to cut through the snow I ended up getting a 205/60/16 on new black steel 16x6.5” wheels. The diameter is 25.7” like the OEM STI and only .4” more than OEM for the WRX so im not worried. Each wheel was only $56 and each tire was $81 so I say it’s a pretty good deal with free mounting and balancing.

Ill post pics when they come, it should be funny to see a 245 next to a little 205! Here a pic of the 09 OEM 225/45/17 next to my 245’s. this even looks night and day.





 

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synolimit said:
the tire i went with is the General Tire Altimax Arctic studdable ice/snow.
A few locals run that tire. If you're not looking to spend Blizzak / Nokian $, that's a solid choice.
 

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Nicely done so far. Aren't you worried at all about water getting on the filter and possible water ingestion with that front bumper opening?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nicely done so far. Aren't you worried at all about water getting on the filter and possible water ingestion with that front bumper opening?
the 09 had the fog light opening with the same mesh type of set up. 36k miles and never had an issue. i even checked 3-4 times after huge puddles, rain storms, winter storms etc. inlet was always bone dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i think im going to make my own motor mounts. we all could use a little more stiffness but why shell out $120 for group N, $245 for beatrush, or $345 for MRI solid mounts, when i can make my own for probably $45???

my main reason is i need a little drop because my TB is rubbing a little on the hood and i can set it to whatever height i want.

i could make the MRI super easy out of a solid block of 6061 but i dont think id like a solid mount. just measure, drill, tap, done.



i think ill go after the beatrush then. the angle iron can be found at the metal store and i was thinking about using a cars bushing like this trailing arm i found. from the beatrush pic you can see all they did was weld on a plate to the two circles. im thinking they welded on a thread or just fead a bolt down though. once its all bolted down the thread really doesnt have to be welded. just drill a hole and set all 3 threads down inside. when the bushings are bolted down the threads cannot fall out and should make install easy.



 

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Discussion Starter #19
winters are here. wow these things are huge (height wise). im kinda glad they're tall. for winter i sit a little low and these wheels raise the car up about 1/4". not much when you measure but it looks like a lot more with the eye and off the car. the total diameter is .9" taller but for some reason its only .25" on the car. o well im glad my exhaust cut out is 1/4" taller than before. i have never hit anything with the cut out because of where it is located in the middle of the car, but she sure does sit low!!

the lot..



the cut out





the difference of a 205 vs 245 and 60 vs 35








the gap before (summer)



the gap after (winter)



the clearance



 

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so my black front end peices started chipping!! :mad: i used a plastic spray paint and even sanded. so i decided to use Plasti Dip this time. everything worked ok till the Plasti Dip started bubbling the plastic spray paint :confused:. needless to say i had to start all over! the spray paint came right off with the Plasti Dip and in spots that it didnt i just used my thumbs and rolled the paint right off! WTF??

for the life of me i could not get all the paint and Dip out of the vent holes :beatentod . so i decided to just cut them out. since i had 8 feet left of grill stuff, i just used that to make new vents. i cut to size and then JB welded the grill to the back of the peice. since a hell of a lot more bumper was then exposed i decided to Plastic Dip what was exposed black so it would blend in better and you wouldnt see all this white poking out. i think it all turned out good and since Plasti Dip is so easy to use i can tear it off and redo it anytime with ease.

O and while i was at it i did my mirrors and window chrome :)







 
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