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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a few questions regarding this as well, so I figured I'd make another quick how-to. I was going to buy the OEM footwell lights, but I was NOT about to spend hundreds of dollars for something that can be done for a fraction of that. So, I'll try to make this as clear as possible since I didn't take pictures of the install on this car, and barely any on the last car I did it on. I'll link all the things needed for this at the end.

****DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY****

First, we're going to need a few things. Two flexible LED strips with adhesive backs. I love the ones I use, but if you have a specific brand, go for it. Next some wire (I prefer 16 gauge), a toggle switch, an add a fuse, some spare fuses, wire crimp tool, a ring terminal, and some quick connect boxes.




First, let's get everything apart. If you don't know how, check out YouTube for some tutorials. We're going to want to drop the lower dash on the driver's side, take out the airbag bracket, then take out the radio to give you some room to work. So, once all that's done, you're going to find a fuse to tap into. I can check which I used if it's needed, but I'm sure there are tons of threads giving you good options. Use a fuse that only has accessory power. You'll save yourself some headaches. Once you figure out where you want to put it, grab the 16 gauge wire and crimp the positive wire into the connector on the fuse tap's wire (the blue connector, in my case).

Next, we'll install the toggle. You can put it anywhere you want, but I put it in the blank that's next to the TC off button. To do this, I just drilled a hole (1/4") from behind, then put the toggle through. The toggle I had came with wires pre-attached, so I connected the ring terminal to one, and connected the other to the negative of the 16 gauge cable. I found the best ground in that location to be the bolt for the air bag bracket. So, fit the ring terminal on there, then bolt it back on. Pop the fuse tap in, and make sure everything has enough slack to where there isn't tension.

Next we're going to run the wire to the radio location. Use the wires going in that direction to attach it. I used electrical tape, but cable ties work too. Once that's finished and you have the other end of your cable going through to where the radio sits, you can put the dash back together on the driver's side, but leave the radio out. When doing so, make sure the wires are still secure and out of the way.

Now comes the fun part. Wipe down the bottom edge of the dash trim on the driver's side. About an inch will do along the entire edge. We're just going to stick the LED strip onto that edge. The strips I get have wires pre-soldered, so if you buy those, put the wire side facing the radio. Next, peel off the backing and stick it on. These are bright enough where it doesn't matter if they're off-center. Everything will be lit up. Once it's stuck on, run that wire into where the radio is as well. Repeat the same steps on the passenger side, and make sure the wires on the strip are facing the radio, then push the wires into that location.





For the next part it's completely up to you in how you want to do it, as it's just making the necessary connections; but, I'll just go over the route I went. I'm a fan of quick disconnect boxes, so I used a 5-port box on the power and ground wires we had coming in from our earlier connections. This let's me expand easily, and no need to ever touch the main lead. Trim any excess for a clean finish. So, with that, I also went a step further and picked up a wireless LED dimmer/control module:

Quick connect boxes:



Dimmer:



These LEDs are VERY bright without a dimmer:





So bright that they bothered me, which is where the dimmer comes into play. It allows 10-levels of adjustment, or to turn them completely off all together. I can also do modes (I'll link the video at the end), but I never use it for that.

The dimmer is very easy to setup, and you can mount it with some double sided tape, or just leave it in there. Up to you, but mounting is always a good solution to prevent unwanted movement. As you can see in the picture above, it has a simple input and output. For the input, we're going to run some cable from the two 5-port boxes that have power and ground, into the input of the dimmer module. Just cut your wires to the length you need them, and attach the wires. Make sure positive goes to positive, and negative to negative. You don't want a short. You're going to do the same thing for the output, but use some 3-port boxes instead. These 3 port boxes will be specifically for the LED strips to be connected to the dimmer. So, connect your LED strips to the boxes (positive in one, negative in the other), and then use some more 16 gauge to connect those boxes to the output connections on the dimmer. Once the connections are made, double check to make sure everything is secure. Reconnect your battery, then test out the lights. Make sure everything turns on, the toggle works, and the dimmer is also working. Once confirmed, tidy up your wires behind the radio (there's tons of space), and you're finished. The end result will look something like this:




These pictures were taken with the lowest light output. Also the video of the dimmer in action:



Where to buy -

LED strips: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...t-and-lc2-connector-3-chip-smd-led-5050/4009/
Quick disconnect boxes: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...l-blocks/1372/
16 gauge wire: https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-Gau...uge+power+wire
Toggle switch: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...red/1356/3109/
Add a fuse: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-tap/545/1739/
Crimper: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tools/crimper-and-stripper-multi-tool/1080/2571/
Ring terminals: https://www.amazon.com/120-Wirefy-H...qid=1501080062&sr=8-3&keywords=ring+terminals
Dimmer: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...immer-with-dynamic-modes-rf-remote/1370/3140/
 

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nice job, i need to find a way to dim the stock ones, or change their color (have blue)
 

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I did mine using the hack that utilizes the $30 kit intended for the 2014 that plugs inline into the center cubby light. They dim along with the wheel that controls the rest of the interior lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did mine using the hack that utilizes the $30 kit intended for the 2014 that plugs inline into the center cubby light. They dim along with the wheel that controls the rest of the interior lights.
I saw that as well, but I prefer to have control over when my accent lighting comes on. Most nights I don't run it at all.



impressive DIY guide
Thanks! I just hope it helps someone.
 
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