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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whats the best FMIC for the money?
Any good places to buy?
-The ones where you have to remove the fog lights suck

Does anyone have any idea how much installation on a FMIC is, is that something that Anyone can do (like Me)?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Corrosive said:
Whats the best FMIC for the money?
Any good places to buy?
-The ones where you have to remove the fog lights suck

Does anyone have any idea how much installation on a FMIC is, is that something that Anyone can do (like Me)?

Thanks,
Mike
Removal of fog lights is necessary if you want a big core and a good end tank and inlet/outlet pipe design. If you're worried about your fog lights than you're not committed to making a lot of power. The Blitz and Greddy are both very good. I use the Blitz due to the larger core. Vishnu used it on their 475 HP car which says something right there. It was barely breaking a sweat on my 390 HP car. Install is easy but the cutting of the bumper beam and the bumper cover I think might be tough. We use a plasma cutter to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You have a good point about the fog lights. I could always cover the lack there of.
Do you have any pics of your FMIC?
Any idea on how much it would cost to install?
How long did it take to install?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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fmic

God,

I just got the fmic from greddy, however it does not come with instructions. Is there a way i can get it and do you know if i have to cut the bumper as you described for the bitz. Please pm me
 

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The MRT allows for the fog lights to be kept but its really expensive and Ive heard taht the piping is not optimal for max air flow(just from what Ive heard) I do hear great things about the blitz FMIC though
 

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i wanna see pics of FMI other than MRT's, up close would be ideal...also...what are the difference from the "bar and plate" vs. some spiral one i heard of??? I dunno what they're talking about but i think its a minor diff. Pics and info would be nice :)
 

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Bar and plate type intercoolers have better cooling abilities, however they are heavier and more expensive than tube and fin designs...
 

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SobeWRX said:
Bar and plate type intercoolers have better cooling abilities, however they are heavier and more expensive than tube and fin designs...
bar and plate are more durable too, so better suited for FMIC's.

those fins get dinged up pretty easily. i always thought the B&P didn't cool as well.


either way, the difference is negligable, it's the core size that matters.

dR
 

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Blitz and Greddy are both tube and fin.

MRT is bar and plate.

As for the MRT being more expensive, consider what you get with the kit that the Blitz and Greddy don't provide. The MRT can be had for $1400. You also get a short ram intake and the ability to use a stock BOV.

With the Greddy or Blitz, you will need to spend another $200 for the intake and another $200 for a BOV and $30 for welding.

The MRT doesn't seem like such a bad deal now does it?

BTW, I just got one for $1050 shipped. :D
 

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For the record: Tube-and-fin type are generally considered to have more efficient cooling than bar-and-plate type intercoolers. They also weigh less. However, the bar-and-plate type usually offer less internal resistance meaning less pressure drop across the core. Like most things in life; it's a tradeoff.

I will be going with the GReddy FMIC as I believe that both the Blitz and the Hyperflow (TXS & MRT) units simply have too much core volume for the turbochargers we are using. The GReddy has MUCH better duct routing than the Blitz also.

The GReddy and Blitz both sell for about $850. As Jay correctly pointed out, you will need to add the price of a BOV and intake. I will be going with a $40 K&N cone filter because I have no need for a MAF.

At the end of the day, you are probably not going to see a huge difference between FMIC X and Y. Both should offer significant advantages over the stock TMIC.

-Pace

[Edit] Corrected a mistake.
 

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SobeWRX said:
Bar and plate type intercoolers have better cooling abilities, however they are heavier and more expensive than tube and fin designs...
Not true. Here is a message sent from Simon Lines of Prodrive to our friend Jan Shim:

Dear Jan

The bar / plate type GENERALLY has a higher internal flow, i.e. less backpressure in the intake system

The tube / fin type have a slightly higher internal resistance but are GENERALLY more efficient at cooling

These are GENERALISATIONS, and both types can mimic the other depending on a particular design or application. The bar and plate type has a better more "high performance" "image" than the tube / fin, but the reality is not so clear cut.

I think the important thing is to decide what you are trying to achieve, then get the best intercooler for your application. This "deciding what you are trying to achieve" before getting parts can involve some guesswork but having an overall plan makes things simpler in the long run.

Kind regards

Simon J Lines
 

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For those people wanting a bar-and-plate like the MRT, you might want to wait a little while if you cannot land a nice deal like Jay did. TurboXS will be releasing theirs soon, and I believe it is the exact same Hyperflow unit as MRT sell. Reportedly it will be similarly priced, but it might be worth waiting for 'just in case'. Plus you'd have product support from a vendor on US soil. ;)

-Pace
 

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for smaller intercoolers bar and plate desings are more efficient. For very large intercoolers tub and fin becomes more efficient. However as pace pointed out we don't require large intercoolers for the size turbo's that we are using...
 

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The only FMIC I would consider is the APS FMIC for the following reasons:

1) it is the ONLY one that does not REQUIRE any cutting of the main steel bumper support.

2) It has the second largest core next in line to the MRT FMIC.

3) It uses silicon tubing which doesn't get heatsoaked like most other aluminum tubing used.

Yah it's probably one of the more expensive ones out there but I think it would be worth it.
 

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The APS is a beautiful piece, and given unlimited budget it is definitely what I would go with. However, the GReddy can be had for nearly half the price, so...

You raise a good point on the heatsoaking. Todd (Ronin2121) was telling me that initially after his GReddy install, the aluminum piping would get too too hot to touch. However, some fiber heat wrap seems to have cured that problem, although it looks pretty darn ugly. :eek:

-Pace
 

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There are soo many considerations here:

1. There is NO point to a massive core that cannot actually see air flow. Better to have aq core 10% that gets 100% actual contact witht he air than a massive core that is hidden behind the support and/or bumper skin.....

2. Silicone hose doesn't heat soak? Touch a set of Samco's after a few full boost runs...they get burning hot. Plus, silicone collapeses and expands given the length of tubing required..aluminum obviously does not experience this, and cannot tear over time either.

3. Header wrap is nto a good idea at all on those intercooler pipes...you want to expel heat, not keep it in!!! We offer coatings that are designed to either retain heat (good for post-heads pipe work) or expel heat (good for pre heads pipe work). Yes, at idle with the hood closed the aluminum piping gets hot to the touch....but after a nice hard run, the piping should be very cool if not cold to the touch..if not, the IC is too small for the turbo he is using, or the boost level is too much.

Adam
www.z1auto.com
 
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