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· Registered
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how you guys doing, I am new here and to owning a subaru. I come from owning an automatic RSX lol.
I bought my 06 WRX TR right before summer. since purchasing it, I have done the timing belt, water pump, and the rest that comes with the 100k water pump kit. I replaced front axels. I recently replaced my front 02 sensor, and MAF sensor because it was causing my car to run lean. Last Sunday I did a compression test and got 140s for all my cylinders (THANK THE LORD). I decided to reward my car with new NGK spark plugs.

Now I have a new problem, my DAM is and wont move pass .5, its been like this for weeks now. My feedback knock has gotten to -11 if i push it on the freeway (90+mph)... I checked my knock learning and its constantly at 0. Im assuming my car does not want to learn anything at all? if that makes sense? If i take it slow and drive normally, I hit -4 knock around 3rd or 4th gear. If i give it too much gas the knock increases. I have to lightly accelerate. I have no idea what could be causing this. I feel no lack of power, and my car is still very responsive.

My mods are a bigger intercooler, bigger turbo (I think its the 08 STI turbo, vf38??) came with the car. the car is tuned but previous owner told me it was not set yet with the current turbo installed.

I am uploading 2 logs. One is from yesterday just casual driving to the gas station, and one is from today. A quick pull 1st to 2nd before arriving home.

casual driving: (this log is kinda long, just keep observing as my knock will reach -4)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1QyxiDxNj-JsQg8NA4kryGAu9GHa1FtLipZRTuJLiydI/edit?usp=sharing


1st&2nd pull:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1COqoxDXeaJsb4TvPp6VXeinf1QuL1VWK4177DYqojJs/edit?usp=sharing
 

· Village Idiot
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3,468 Posts
I'll stop you right here and say that if the previous owner stated the car is not yet dialed in regarding the tune, then you need to stop driving it until you can get it to a tuner and have it tuned. Your engine seems healthy thus far but drive it much longer, as is, and you'll be looking at replacing the motor before long. Spend the ~ $500 now for a professional tune ASAP before you end up having to load $4k into the car replacing the block.
 

· Not a mod... or is he? Or, is he not?
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15,756 Posts
This should be obvious. It needs tuned. I'll be honest, you keep driving it, it isn't gonna last much longer.

If you have been driving it like that since the beginning of summer I find it very hard to believe your compression is good.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So its gonna be a few weeks before i can save up money like that to spend on a tune. is there a cheaper route like any good e-tuners? Also would you guys recommend switching back to the stock tune instead? would that be better??
 

· Super Moderator
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3,430 Posts
Switching back to the stock tune will do just as much if not more damage. The stock map will be telling the ECU that everything on the car is stock, when obviously it is not. Unless you have all of the stock parts to replace the aftermarket, flashing the stock map will do no good.

Do not drive your car. It needs to be tuned. Like stated above, im actually surprised its not worse if you have been driving it like that since summer. Park the car. Do what you have to do to get it tuned.

E-tuning is another option, but a pro/dyno tune will still net better results in the end. But as of now, that is besides the point. You must get that car tuned somehow to be able to safely drive it.
 

· Registered
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea i didnt bother using my apv2 until my car started giving me problems but i fixed those and now the DAM would be the last thing. Im still driving my car, as long as i dont floor it my knocks only goes up to 5ish. but only for a sec then I let go off the gas then it goes down to 0 again and I then give it gas again.

this only happens once or twice each drive lol.
 

· Super Moderator
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3,430 Posts
That still isn't good. Cobb has stated that the only safe number to see during a knock occurrence, and that is considered normal, is -1.40 on occasion. The fact that you are still driving this car and think that a knock of -5.XX is ok, plus it is happening every time you drive......... Your engine isn't happy, and it will go boom. Don't say we didn't warn you.
 

· Not a mod... or is he? Or, is he not?
Joined
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15,756 Posts
yea i didnt bother using my apv2 until my car started giving me problems but i fixed those and now the DAM would be the last thing. Im still driving my car, as long as i dont floor it my knocks only goes up to 5ish. but only for a sec then I let go off the gas then it goes down to 0 again and I then give it gas again.

this only happens once or twice each drive lol.
Take a bus bro. You engine is knocking something wicked and is going to fail sooner than later if you don't resolve it.

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· Registered
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45 Posts
Your knock looks to be happening between 2000 and 2600 RPMS and 1.7 to 2.1 g/rev load. Fueling looks ok (obviously these aren't wideband values), so I think its probably a timing issue.

The AP should have a tab for "Adjustments" on the tuning page. here you should be able to retard the timing by a few degrees universally. If that helps, then you know where your problem lies.

I know it's not really available anymore... but any chance you got a copy of ATR with the car?

Oh and if the car is not tuned for the turbo, at the very least I would skip the boost controller and just run on wastegate boost until you have time to get a tune/do it yourself
 
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