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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm an idiot. I figured I would be able to pull a fast one on the new OBD I/M emissions testing that was just implemented here in my county. To make a long story short, I failed because of four "not ready's". The car: 2003 WRX, UTEC, Stage 3. Three cat related ones (because of my resistor fix for the rear o2 sensor) and one Evap related (because of the UTEC). I fixed the Evap related one yesterday but I guess it takes many drive cycles for it to show a "ready" status. After failing today, I took off the resistor fix for the rear o2 sensor and switched over to a mechanical fix using the HELP! 42009 parts. From searching around, I guess I'm gonna have to do 30 or so drive cycles before all of the sensors show "ready". Luckily I get a free retest. What was the lesson I learned? Don't fix something today hoping to pass emissions tomorrow. Hopefully my experience will help someone else to better prepare for an emissions test in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
MisterX and Rich10, thanks for the tips but we do OBD I/M testing and a Gas Cap test now instead of the sniffer.:( I'm confident that I would pass if we still did the sniffer test. From all the searching I did, I figure that I'll have to go through 30 drive cycles. There was an interesting obd2 chart that I found in my searching that shows how many drive cycles it takes for various sensors to go "ready". These drive cycles consist of a few minutes of idling, steady acceleration, steady cruising at a certain speed, deceleration without using brakes, coolant temperature fluctuations, patting your head and rubbing your belly and chewing gum and walking at the same time. I hope I can get the required number of drive cycles in within the 30 day free retest window. I don't drive my car all that much. Oh yeah, my car also failed the safety inspection because my two front tires are worn bald on the inside obviously due to misalignment. I only have 17k miles on my car...how can it be out of alignment?!?! You guys think I could make an argument with the dealer that the car was misaligned from the factory and get a free alignment? I don't think I can get new tires under the tire manufacturer warranty because according to the warranty pamphlet, tire wear isn't covered if the wear was caused by misalignment. I ordered some Sumitomo HTR+ tires to replace the worn ones just so I could pass the safety inspection portion of the state inspection. They were pretty cheap...hopefully the quality doesn't reflect the price.
 

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Most dealers won't do a wheel alignment under warranty. Even if your alignment was perfect from the factory (which might not be the case), after hitting a few potholes, the alignment could be off.
 

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scrappydoo said:
Make sure you get all the cel fixes done, then wait till the last day of your free retrial. Hopefully that'll be enough time to get her back in ready mode.
it probably won't. it took a couple weeks for my "not ready" readings to go away.

get a scanner, and check them yourself to save yourself a wasted trip (and failure)

dR
 

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waveoff said:
Oh yeah, my car also failed the safety inspection because my two front tires are worn bald on the inside obviously due to misalignment. I only have 17k miles on my car...how can it be out of alignment?!?! You guys think I could make an argument with the dealer that the car was misaligned from the factory and get a free alignment? I don't think I can get new tires under the tire manufacturer warranty because according to the warranty pamphlet, tire wear isn't covered if the wear was caused by misalignment. I ordered some Sumitomo HTR+ tires to replace the worn ones just so I could pass the safety inspection portion of the state inspection. They were pretty cheap...hopefully the quality doesn't reflect the price.
Is your car lowered?
 

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at the risk of sounding slow... resistor mods being used in PA arent gonna cut it anymore at inspection? does that mean my catless uppipe with 2.2k fix and my MIL eliminator for my downpipe are both gonna throw a red flag? i see there is a mechanical fix for the downpipe, but if the uppipe is also in question what can i do about that? TIA
bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wrinkleboi, you'll be fine with the 2.2k ohm fix for the uppipe but your assumption about the resistor fix for the downpipe is correct. Just the downpipe fix will throw a red flag. My downpipe resistor fix caused emissions test problems so I went with a mechanical fix the other day after failing. So far, no CEL. Just waiting for the o2 sensor to go back to "ready" status now that I have the resistor fix gone. This whole thing really threw a wrench into my plans. I was planning on going stage 4 after passing the emissions test but now I have to wait for everything to be kosher before I start throwing all the parts on. :( I've been staring at this brand new vf22 here in my basement since March! It's still in it's original, sealed plastic bag.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just wanted to update my post for future search purposes. I ended up passing emissions with no problems a couple of weeks ago. I spent the money and bought a so/so OBD2 scanner the shows system readiness and any codes. I did away with the electric MIL eliminator in my catless downpipe and switched to a mechanical fix using those spark plug anti-foulers. After doing that, I had to wait for my O2 system to go into a "ready" state. I don't know how many trips it took but I can say that after one week of city driving (about 200 miles) and then two long highway trips (100 miles each way) it went from "not ready" to "ready". Also, the EVAP system was "not ready" for a long time. It took about the same amount of time for the EVAP system to go "ready" after switching a wire from the stock wire harness to the UTEC wire harness to get rid of an EVAP system code I was throwing. See http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540813&highlight=p1446 for details about this. I wish I knew exactly how many trips it took for everything to go ready but I don't. :( All I can say is go on a couple of long highway trips and so some city driving. But I know now it's possible to pass this new OBD testing while being catless and running aftermarket engine management.
 
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