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Master Baiter
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Discussion Starter #141
ben.dover.69 said:
How/ what would I need to put a catback exhaust made for 2002-2007 wrx's onto a 2008-2014 wrx?
New piping
 

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Super Modulator
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I don't want to make a new thread for a simple question I'm sure others may wonder too but does anyone know what the hole is for on the top of the bellmouth on my down pipe?
View attachment 270298
Wideband O2 sensor bung.

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Village Idiot
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It's a second Bung for an aftermarket Wideband O2 sensor. You can do one of two things: Buy an aftermarket Wideband O2 gauge and sensor (AEM, Innovate, Defi, etc.), or buy a bung plug to screw into the hole until you do buy a gauge and sensor. Either way you can not leave it open as it is now, while it's on the car.
 

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It's a second Bung for an aftermarket Wideband O2 sensor. You can do one of two things: Buy an aftermarket Wideband O2 gauge and sensor (AEM, Innovate, Defi, etc.), or buy a bung plug to screw into the hole until you do buy a gauge and sensor. Either way you can not leave it open as it is now, while it's on the car.
Ah ok thanks, I couldn't find anything about it and the chat support at HKS was no help. It's been on the car since my tune and my tuner put a bolt in there but I never knew what it was for. Lol
 

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I believe my tuner just plugged one in for the tune but I'm not sure. They're an excellent shop though and I'd recommend them for people in the KY OH area
Dyno operators usually use an Exhaust Gas Analyzer (EGA) that is inserted into the tailpipe.

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Dyno operators usually use an Exhaust Gas Analyzer (EGA) that is inserted into the tailpipe.

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Quite possible. I'm still new to the whole tuning thing. My last vehicle was a 4cyl carb 4spd Toyota truck, so no tuning there. Lol
 

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Don't worry, we all start somewhere. I am guessing with those mods you are going stage 2.

What Zax said is 100% right, tuners will use EGA on the dyno.

But, with a wide band o2 you can get a more accurate view of your long-term fuel trims to determine if there is any issue with fueling. This is done via the "A/F Learning 1" A, B, C, D values which can be independently monitored/logged. You can send these logs to your tuner and he can make adjustments for you remotely.

Keep in mind that these values are cleared when you install the AccessPORT, reflash a new map, reset the ECU via AccessPORT or disconnect the car's battery. So, if any of the procedures are done, you will need a good amount of general driving (say about of week) for the long-term fuel trims to re-populate accurately.

The stock front o2 sensor is not accurate enough under boost to use as a tool for determining the fueling is hitting the target. You would need a more robust wide band o2 sensor than the stock WB o2 at the bung you were questioning and you could compare this to the Commanded Fuel Final monitor to make sure you were reasonably hitting your target in open loop. Although this is not necessary for a car with stock injectors, and an intake compatible with the Cobb OTS map you will likely be running, but more serious mods down the line.
 

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It's just an old pic of the exhaust. I've had it tuned and all sorts of stuff installed on it since February lol. But my next tune will be adding even more parts and hopefully hitting 300hp and I gotta decide if I should go EWG or not
 

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Should I get a catless uppipe before or after an aftermarket dp + tune combo?

Or should I just save up enough to get all 3 at once?
 

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All 3 at once is the most effective way to add output and make the car blatantly illegal anywhere in the US. That's why people prefer doing all 3. Whatever you do, don't modify the exhaust without remapping the car. The up pipe doesn't need a reflash but anything aft of the turbo does. After 12 years the bolts will fight back so have band aids on hand and you'll probably want to do everything while it's all apart anyway.
 

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All 3 at once is the most effective way to add output and make the car blatantly illegal anywhere in the US. That's why people prefer doing all 3. Whatever you do, don't modify the exhaust without remapping the car. The up pipe doesn't need a reflash but anything aft of the turbo does. After 12 years the bolts will fight back so have band aids on hand and you'll probably want to do everything while it's all apart anyway.
Sounds good, I have 2 more questions as well. After the exhaust components are installed should I play it safe and get the car towed to my nearest tuning shop, or drive out of boost to the shop?

Also how difficult is it installing the downpipe and upipipe? My friends and I are going to install a HKS hipower cat back on my car soon, so I'm wondering if the 4 of us would have difficulty installing these considering our automotive experience consists of installing stereos and taking some automotive classes in highschool lol
 

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Never, ever tow the car. Ever. Only flatbed the car.

It's an order of magnitude more difficult than a catback and if things go wrong you may hate life.
 

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You should have no problem really bolting the stuff on and if you have an accessport, load the economy map for your car. It'll keep it out of boost and allow you to putz to the tuner. That's what my tuner had me do but if you lack an accessport, I personally would just stay out of boost, go like quarter throttle and shift at 3k rpm tops on your way to the tuner
 

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Go buy Kano aerokroil now or kroil if you are not allowed aerosol cans. It is the best penetrating oil on earth and you need to use it liberally on all the exhaust fasteners.

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That is an excellent penetrating oil.
 
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