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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title states the engine blew and let a nice hole on top. I am currently weighing my options on which route I should go for the rebuild.
My question is: what are the odds the head on that side is shot? I haven't had the chance to pull the motor yet to assess that damage yet.
 

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if you had stuff come through the top of the engine, then chances are it went through the head. also if metal shards went into the turbo then that is also shot and the intercooler has shards inside. injectors could be damaged as well.

if you post up what state you live in, people here maybe will recommend shop(s) that can repair
 

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As the title states the engine blew and let a nice hole on top. I am currently weighing my options on which route I should go for the rebuild.
My question is: what are the odds the head on that side is shot? I haven't had the chance to pull the motor yet to assess that damage yet.
Head is on the side, not top. That said, fine metal dust & oil starvation can kill the heads and turbo even if they look fine visually. No way to say without tearing everything apart & getting a machine shop to measure everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Head is on the side, not top. That said, fine metal dust & oil starvation can kill the heads and turbo even if they look fine visually. No way to say without tearing everything apart & getting a machine shop to measure everything.
I had good oil pressure. My tuner said something happened and it over boosted while collecting data. The car shutoff instantly and I never tried to restart.



I guess I'm just trying to decide if it would be worth skipping the headache and just going with a long block. I will be doing all the work on my own. I've built a lot of chevy engines but this would be my first Subaru and heard it can be tricky to get the timing right which makes me a little hesitant on going with a short block.

I am in Minnesota
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
if you had stuff come through the top of the engine, then chances are it went through the head. also if metal shards went into the turbo then that is also shot and the intercooler has shards inside. injectors could be damaged as well.

if you post up what state you live in, people here maybe will recommend shop(s) that can repair
I pulled the intake and you can see a big crack and the start of a hole. I still have to drain it so I can finish pulling things off the top to check it out. I hope the turbo is still good, its brand new.
 

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Timing is not hugely tricky, handling and lining up the case halves can be but if you get a pre-assembled shortblock instead of parts that's not relevant.

Turbo is hard to test at home, the end/radial play could be good but metal dust can grind into the seals and cause a leak or throw off the balance. Best to have a specialist look at it. Or get a IAG/Outfront closed deck block and send the turbo to socal for the v4 upgrade for power. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Timing is not hugely tricky, handling and lining up the case halves can be but if you get a pre-assembled shortblock instead of parts that's not relevant.

Turbo is hard to test at home, the end/radial play could be good but metal dust can grind into the seals and cause a leak or throw off the balance. Best to have a specialist look at it. Or get a IAG/Outfront closed deck block and send the turbo to socal for the v4 upgrade for power. ;)
The turbo is a new boostlab 54x. I planned on buying a complete short block if the heads are ok because I have a hole in mine right now. I would prefer to do a short block because of the price difference but it will all depend on how things look. I'm going to try and get it pulled this week otherwise it has to sit until spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What year? If you have the 15-21, I think it would be the perfect time for the fa24 swap

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I have an 2018. I've been looking at a few different options. I didnt think about the fa24. I will have to see what is compatible from the 20 to the 24 first. While it could be an improvement, I don't want to go backwards having to purchase everything again.
 

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I have an 2018. I've been looking at a few different options. I didnt think about the fa24. I will have to see what is compatible from the 20 to the 24 first. While it could be an improvement, I don't want to go backwards having to purchase everything again.
That's not a drop-in upgrade, it's a major project with lots of expensive trial and error. The platform is different so you would at minimum need the '22 ecu and immobilizer and a mile long list of custom parts for everything from engine mounts to pipes and brackets. Then you have to make the new ecu talk to your bcm and sensors, and figure out how to tune a new engine and clear emissions codes despite Cobb's new restrictions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's not a drop-in upgrade, it's a major project with lots of expensive trial and error. The platform is different so you would at minimum need the '22 ecu and immobilizer and a mile long list of custom parts for everything from engine mounts to pipes and brackets. Then you have to make the new ecu talk to your bcm and sensors, and figure out how to tune a new engine and clear emissions codes despite Cobb's new restrictions.
Yeah, I'm good lol. I'll stick with the 20 and upgrade the block.
 

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there are a buch of options for repair
1. find a salvage yard with a donor car. if you are lucky you can find a place that will have an engine (you may need the turbo and intercooler off it and other items) Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is one option there are other places (depending on where you live)
this option may be cheaper in the long run, although not as long-lived.
2. self rebuild. steep learning curve but you will learn a lot. you will need a local machine shop that will do machining services and assist. things like matching heads to the block, piston ring gap, etc. this is a more expensive option. probably the most fun, but may not be possible depending on your location. most machine shops love working with people and are willing to teach and advise.
3. buy replacement heads and engine that are ready to go. (long block) most expensive option. quickest path to full repair.
4. subaru sells an RA short block which you can get for a bit over 2k if you search/compare prices. this is only the bottom end/mid half of the engine. does not include the heads. 2008-2017 Subaru Short Block 10103AC890 | Subaru Online Parts
 

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there are a buch of options for repair
1. find a salvage yard with a donor car. if you are lucky you can find a place that will have an engine (you may need the turbo and intercooler off it and other items) Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is one option there are other places (depending on where you live)
this option may be cheaper in the long run, although not as long-lived.
2. self rebuild. steep learning curve but you will learn a lot. you will need a local machine shop that will do machining services and assist. things like matching heads to the block, piston ring gap, etc. this is a more expensive option. probably the most fun, but may not be possible depending on your location. most machine shops love working with people and are willing to teach and advise.
3. buy replacement heads and engine that are ready to go. (long block) most expensive option. quickest path to full repair.
4. subaru sells an RA short block which you can get for a bit over 2k if you search/compare prices. this is only the bottom end/mid half of the engine. does not include the heads. 2008-2017 Subaru Short Block 10103AC890 | Subaru Online Parts
Thank you
 

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they are all over the place. most dont advertise. they are hidden lol. like in my town one of them is in the middle of a block you have to get to them via one of the alleys!

i found a few already with duckduckgo in northern CA. i would bet there are 50 of them within 100 miles of you:

Font Screenshot Darkness Monochrome photography Terrestrial plant
 

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they are all over the place. most dont advertise. they are hidden lol. like in my town one of them is in the middle of a block you have to get to them via one of the alleys!

i found a few already with duckduckgo in northern CA. i would bet there are 50 of them within 100 miles of you:

View attachment 334090
I figured one that I subaru specific because on my other it got messed up by a mechanic who probally great with other cars than subie. I have a shop in Ashland I am pretty sure they r good at what they do but weather or not they allow me to see and learn type thi g is another story . Lol. Thanks so much for your time ! I am gonna cry about my new car and sleep on it.
they are all over the place. most dont advertise. they are hidden lol. like in my town one of them is in the middle of a block you have to get to them via one of the alleys!

i found a few already with duckduckgo in northern CA. i would bet there are 50 of them within 100 miles of you:

View attachment 334090
Thanks 4 advice on machine shops. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the input everyone. I have to wait until spring to get started on it due to an unexpected surgery. I haven't had the chance to tear it down yet but I'm hoping the heads are still good. If they are good, I will be going with upfront or iag for the short block and turn it up. If one or both are shot, i will just be dropping in a stock engine.
 
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