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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Definetely a pure synthetic oil like Mobil 1, or AMSOIL. Synthetic is good for the turbo, and it also reduces wear and tear during start up and high rpms.

If you are going to use regular dinosaur oil, use Mobil O.

Don't use Valvoline, it's rated one of the worst oils on the market.
 

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A friend of mine said that I should use non-synthetic oil for the first couple of oil changes.. (actually he said until I get to a certain mileage, but I forget what it was).. and then start using the synthetic. Anybody care to comment on this?
 

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I heard the same thing. I think the switch to synthetic should be @ ~12000 miles (3rd or 4th oil change). Once i hit that area, I'm going to switch to Redline.
 

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according to some subie mechanics, the factory oil w/ brand new subies should be left in there until the breakin period is over. it has special additives in it to help break in the engine. afterwards, it's fine to switch to synthetic.

i'm looking to change my oil this weekend using mobil synthetic. walmart's has it for like $4/quart. cheapest i could find so far.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Naw, maybe on older vehicles. I personally know people that drained the oil the minute they got their car in from the dealership and added synthetic. But to be safe maybe that's a good idea, you never know what could happen. I guess the dino oil conditions your engine, personally I think during break in it's the most crucial time in your engine's life, that's why I would go for synthetic at your first oil change. I wouldnt necessarily drain it right when you buy it, but at least give it 3,000 miles. Why not prevent engine wear and tear from the start of it's life?

Now, on the other hand, I hear that if your vehicle has a ton of miles on it (which I'm sure none of yours has yet since all WRX's are new right now), then it's not a good idea to switch because your seals and such may leak. On my Ford Probe I switched to synthetic at 85,000 miles, and NO problems. just inspected the engine yesterday for leaks, NOT ONE and now at 115,000 miles.

Maybe we should e-mail Subaru regarding this and see if it's safe to use synthetic oil right away?

Peace,
Marc
 

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i changed my oil at 1200 miles to mobil 1. the oil shouldn't affect it, but instead it will help. btw, mobil 1 is $3.79/qt at Target. ;)
check it out. cheapest i found it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wal-Mart is also very cheap, that's where I buy mine. Last time they accidently rang up a case of Mobil 1 for $4.something! Hehehe, I didnt complain.
 

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Walmart also sells Mobil1 in a 5 quart jug for around $15 = ~$3/quart.

Using synthetic should not be an issue. The oil meets and exceeds all standards and requirements, and many performance vehicles now come straight from the factory with synthetic oil (e.g. vette and some BMWs).

The typical "wait" before transitioning to synthetic has been around 7500 miles. There is some controvery regarding whether you need to wait at all with some cars are one reason for the wait was to allow the valve seals to work into their fit. But some manufacturers sell cars with engines all ready broken in in this manner (e.g. vettes), so there is no need to wait before using synthetic.

And beware of oils labelled "synthetic" when they are really reformulated dino oil. There is no regulation on what is or is not "synthetic," so some "synthetic" oil is really not pure chemical fabricated oil versus dino oil. Mobil 1 and Amsoil are definite true synthetics.
 

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I changed to Mobil 1 @ 3000 miles and no problem. I have always used Mobil 1 on my AMG, infact, Mercedes recommends Mobil for the AMG's .
 

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The service guy at my local dealer said to use Subaru filters because on these engines other brands tend to leak. How true this is I don't know, but that's what they tell me.

Good luck
 

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I switched to Amsoil at 2500 miles along with a Amsoil filter. I have actually started getting better gas milage. The reason I went with the Amsoil filter, is that it will filter to 8-10 microns, and I don't think that there are any other filter that will do that. As for leaking, I think that is crap. I had to pound a screwdriver through my filter to get it off because it was so damn tight. I also had to replace the drain plug because I twisted the head on that. I have about 1500 miles on this oil change, and not a leak.

Russ
 

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excuse me for my ignorance... but what actually is a Root and why should I bow???

I thought "root" is something a pig does while looking for food..just curious...and if you have to ask about the "Rooster" than...
your a little slow.
 

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I've searched the web for definitive info on when to switch to synthetic oil. I've even contacted Subaru. While Subaru does not care if you use synthetic oil, or not, I was told that:1- the ej20 has not been tested with synth oil, and 2- not to change over to synth until after the 1000 mile break-in period has been concluded. 3- Switching to synth oil before the break-in period would extend the break-in time. The reason for #2? To ensure proper lubrication! The reason for #3? Synth oil has a lower coefficient of friction! Such reasoning as 2 & 3 seem outrageous to me.
The way I figure it, switching to synthetic oil before the end of the break-in period will reduce the friction of break-in. That sounds OK to me! Why would I want to maintain a higher degree of friction with neww moving engine parts? That's when they are under the most stress. So using an oil with a lower coefficient of friction sounds like a good move to me. Also, if in fact there is a lower coefficient of friction, my thinking is that one could run at higer rpms (not crazy high) to get the same wear patterns using synth-oil as one would get at lower rpms using dino-oil. So, if the car wears less under break-in stress, maybe it will lend to a longer life with tighter specs than could be had with dino-oil. Also consider that synth oil has fewer impurities than dyno-oil, hence fewer contaminants.
Subaru did say that the refining techniques of modern synthetic oil ,and it's additives seem to be ok insofar as engine gaskets are concerned.
So, having said all this, I plan to change my oil before the 1000 mile mark, and then every 3000 miles afterward.
sorry to be long
darryl
 

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Originally posted by Rooster:
excuse me for my ignorance... but what actually is a Root and why should I bow???

I thought "root" is something a pig does while looking for food..just curious...and if you have to ask about the "Rooster" than...
your a little slow.
Buy a real computer and you would know what root is. And rooster is probably a name you like due to low self esteem. Go flame somewhere else I have no idea what that has to do with performance or oil.

[ May 26, 2001: Message edited by: Root ]
 

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Heheheh...

Root is like another name for an administrator except on a unix/linux machine. ie: the ultimate power of that particular box. If you are "root" you have complete controll of the machine.

Not something I would expect to see on a WRX forum but not surprised either.

I like the whole "buy a real computer" thing... if you knew anything about "root" you'd know that you can get root on any type of box... so maybe you should've said something like "get a real OS" instead. Oh well..
 

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if subaru says dont change the oil before 1000 miles, then dont. you cant go wrong
following there recomendation for break in.
then switch to mobil 1
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've always used Mobil 1 15W50 on my DSMs... it even helped stop/calm down the ominous lifter tick so commonly associated with DSMs. Of course, it's pretty much warm/cool all year round in Houston so 15W50 is okay for me. 1 case of 6 quarts for ~$24... been using fram filters (and they now have the X2 for DSMs)... I wouldn't dump the oil in the scooby until you break it in...

it's just like people who go to test drive a car and bang the hell out of it or race a friend around the corner... what's the point of breaking it in if you're going to bang it to hell on it's first seconds of life? Leave well enough alone until that sweet machine is broken in!!! :D

-red-
 
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