[Maximus1991]

Thanks to our Canadian winter everything is freaking seized to death… 2016 wrx cvt

So on my milestone to get engine mount replacement I had to remove the 4 mains screws that hold the EPS to the subframe. Those 4 screws are passing trough a bushing and sleeve.

One of them was so rusted that it completely « welded » the screw with the bushing sleeve. Trying to remove it was a pain and end up with the complete bushing/screw removed together. They were so glued together that I pooped the whole bush.

Now I have to remove the complete Rack assembly (EPS) because that replacement bushing need to be pressed in very tight.

Everything is unscrewed & power cables all disconnected. All that ties the eps to the car now is the Yoke connection. My problem is those seems seized together! I unscrewed the 12mm bolt but pulling the thing doesnt do anything. I am wondering what I should do next?

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[silver_scooby]

You could remove the lower pinch bolt and hammer a brass chisel between the two 'ears' for lack of a better word. That should pull the yoke away from input shaft.

 

[Maximus1991]

You could remove the lower pinch bolt and hammer a brass chisel between the two 'ears' for lack of a better word. That should pull the yoke away from input shaft.

Thanks! Great idea!


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[XJman]

Ingersol rand makes impact sockets called power sockets.

If you have an impact, it will remove them no questions asked. We use them to break apart stuff all the time

 

[Maximus1991]

Ingersol rand makes impact sockets called power sockets.

If you have an impact, it will remove them no questions asked. We use them to break apart stuff all the time

I thanks for showing me this, I checked up on them and they look nice. But I don’t understand how it could help in my situation. Bolts are all off, my problem is the « gears » or spine from both end (eps and yoke) that are stuck together.

I will try splitting the 2 « ears « with the 12mm completly off.


Should I heat it up first to try unsetling the rust weld?


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[XJman]

Oh. I have no idea. I live somewhere else today I guess.

 

[Maximus1991]

This is the bushing that came off with the bolt, thus why I need to remove the rack

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[Maximus1991]

Got the

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[silver_scooby]

Lol does canada use acid instead of salt? How did it get this bad in 6years.

 

[Maximus1991]

Stuff they use is very strong and the winter last 6 months here thats crazy.

Driver side is always worst because you are crossing other vehicule other side of the lane so that makes the salt spread in air.


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[zax]

Yikes. This thread makes me sweat profusely.

As with all Maximus1991 thread titles, I came in here thinking "what the actual **** is he doing? WHY is he doing that?" I see why now, and I'm going to nope out of this one dawg.

 

[Maximus1991]

Yikes. This thread makes me sweat profusely.

As with all Maximus1991 thread titles, I came in here thinking "what the actual **** is he doing? WHY is he doing that?" I see why now, and I'm going to nope out of this one dawg.

Lol not sure to understand what you mean, maybe that’s better this way haha maybe not…

Anyway look thats the problem here, its missing and the way it has to go inside needs a good press.

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[silver_scooby]

Washers, bolt & socket won't work? Usually that's enough for rubber bushings with inserts. Since you are already in there, the thicker S4 brackets improve feel a bit & are relatively cheap, part #s 34166Va010 and ...020.

 

[zax]

Lol not sure to understand what you mean, maybe that’s better this way haha maybe not…

Anyway look thats the problem here, its missing and the way it has to go inside needs a good press.

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I've done hydraulic steering racks on the older platforms and it's one of my least favorite activities. After the first couple years, the rust is so bad that you are guaranteed to require a drill and tap.

 

[silver_scooby]

2 years or 20? Underside is pretty much spotless at 1yr.

 

[Maximus1991]

Washers, bolt & socket won't work? Usually that's enough for rubber bushings with inserts. Since you are already in there, the thicker S4 brackets improve feel a bit & are relatively cheap, part #s 34166Va010 and ...020.

Tried the longer bolt and washer, lot of grease, the bushing 15 mins in freezer, I tell you my friend thats not enough, shaved one of the thread in steel and end up scrapping the new replacement bushing…
Dont worry that was my first idea.


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[Maximus1991]

@silver_scooby;
Oh and big thanks for the parts # I will be ordering those for sure!


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[zax]

2 years or 20? Underside is pretty much spotless at 1yr. View attachment 332722

I'm sure I can create an algorithm to predict the timeframe while incorporating latitude.

Since you are in Texas, I'd imagine your underside will look pretty good for some time, maybe even beyond 20 years. The rust belt, OTOH, 2 years and the underside is covered.

 

[silver_scooby]

Tried the longer bolt and washer, lot of grease, the bushing 15 mins in freezer, I tell you my friend thats not enough, shaved one of the thread in steel and end up scrapping the new replacement bushing…
Dont worry that was my first idea.


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That's a pretty rigid bushing, no wonder there's no aftermarket option.

I'm sure I can create an algorithm to predict the timeframe while incorporating latitude.

Since you are in Texas, I'd imagine your underside will look pretty good for some time, maybe even beyond 20 years. The rust belt, OTOH, 2 years and the underside is covered.

Lol, didn't expect rust belt to be that bad. I'd always assumed rust would start after 8-10yrs there.

 

[Maximus1991]

I'm sure I can create an algorithm to predict the timeframe while incorporating latitude.

Since you are in Texas, I'd imagine your underside will look pretty good for some time, maybe even beyond 20 years. The rust belt, OTOH, 2 years and the underside is covered.

4 years (4 winters) is all it took for that bolt to rust, it didnt see winter since 2 years. Thus why Im repainting/replacing pretty much anything too much rusted


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