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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DIY: Pink injectors on 02-03 WRX

I spent 3 hours today installing pink injectors in near freezing weather. It took me 1 1/2 hours trying to unbolt one of 3 10mm bolt holding a breather cover on driver's side (this is optional), which I later find out may not be necessary to remove!!!

Hope you will find these instructions and photos useful. :)

Tools you need:

3/8" and 1/4" ratchet, long extension
12mm wrench
10, 12, 14 mm sockets
plier
zip ties
screw driver

Remove a 12mm bolt that holds IC


Remove BOV by removing two 12mm bolts (be careful not to lose a gasket)

Remove TB hose

Remove turbo to y-pipe hose

Remove two hoses (driver's side has one hose)

IC removed!

Remove this plastic cover on driver's side

Remove an intake box (there are two bolts - you need a long extension to reach there)

Intake box removed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Remove a battery

Move a windshield washer reservior (two bolts)

Bracket is visible now!

You will have to take this cover off in order to reach a bolt.

Removed!

You can reach from the top to unbolt this hard to reach 10 mm bolt


Here is driver's side GBOD. You will have to bend a AC line a little and wiggle it around to get it out. It took me about 30 minutes to remove IC and GBOD.

Comparison:

You will have to bend a fuel line slightly in order to remove stock injectors. Be sure to use a gas to lubricate o-rings before installing pink injectors.

Here are two stock injectors:


There are two 12mm bolts holding a fuel rail

Remove this 12mm bolt that's holding a fuel rail

Injectors removed:


Pink installed:


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Now, it's time to tackle driver's side GBOD!!!


Here are pictures of GBOD (CREDIT TO RayfieldsWRX from clubwrx.net).




Remove 5 12mm bolts on bracket as well as a few other bolts holding AC and fuel lines.

There are two hard to reach bolts (2 12mm bolts that hold bottom section of GBOD) hidden behind here. There are two options to tackle these two bolts. First option is to remove a breather cover by unbolting 3 10mm bolts or by using a very small 12mm wrench to fit behind a breather cover. I went with later option with a good success.


Two bolts that are holding a fuel rail. Remove these (one on left is hard to remove, so wait until you remove bracket first)


This bolt is hard to reach (use a wrench since there isn't enough space to use a socket in there). Picture not shown is another bolt that's located right below this 12mm bolt. Once again, you will have to use a wrench to reach down there. It's one of the most difficult bolt to reach during the install IIRC.

Remove a coolant reservior tank:

GBOD REMOVED!!!
You can see blue stock injectors here:


Follow these steps in order to remove and replace injectors.
Remove this bolt that holds a fuel rail. Once you remove this bolt, you will be able to lift the fuel rail to be able to remove the injectors.

Pink injectors installed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Conclusion:

Removing GBOD is not as difficult as some people say as long as you have all the right tools. With a good planning and patiece, you should be able to do this in less than 2.5 hours for first timers!

My hand is relatively small so it helped out tremendously!!! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: I haven't noticed any problem so far. One piece of advice is that you MUST pull pink injectors hard into fuel rail until you feel "click".
 

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i will be doing tomorrow, is it neccessary to remove the intake manifold? what do you mean by pull the injectors until they click...did u mean push until they click?
 

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WRXreX said:
it's not necessary to remove the intake manifold. Yes, push until click.

thank you....and also by gas do you mean "petroleoum dissialte"
i want to do this perfect
 

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great write-up...pretty simple plug and play...ill be doing this in the near future

do you know specifically what they are rated at? ive heard 510, but some say 560? anyone know what they rate them at?
 

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im in the prossess of doing this install right now.. taking everything apart and getting to the injectors was cake. took maybe an hour.. as soon as i got the injectors in it took about 2 hours just to push the ****ing fuel rail back down. almost went crazy. hopefully everything after that will go smooth
 

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ok, im doing this mod this wednsday, with my sti intercooler. the wrx splitter looks like it lest more air into the engine bay then the sti splitter, however, on the sti splitter, there is that middle piece of metal that splits the air into two ways. the seal is total different. I was like 2 bolts shorts for the seal but it all worked out. the seal has about 1 extra bolt then the wrx.

i put the seal and the splitter on my wrx without the sti intercooler, there is about 1 inch difference on the right side of the intercooler. is the sti intercooler that much bigger, by an inch (i haven't recienved my intercooler yet)
 

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old school bump for a nice writeup. doing this this week sometime, this was the first diy i saw on a google search.

and as for the poster above 'gasstationboi'... yeah your post doesnt even make sense here. not that it matters, youre banned, foo!!
 

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^^^ Indeed. I did this 2 weeks ago following this write up. It went very smooth. I didn't even have to remove the breather. Boom whack done!
 

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shouldnt you turn your key to "on" to prime the injectors to make sure they are functioning? i remember reading something like that. if someone could fill in that part id be happy!
 

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shouldnt you turn your key to "on" to prime the injectors to make sure they are functioning? i remember reading something like that. if someone could fill in that part id be happy!
If you turn it to the "on" position, you're only causing the fuel pump to run for a second. I don't believe you could gather any injector info by just doing that. I pulled inside fuse #11 (ignition). I turned the motor over 6-8 times, cranking it for 4-5 seconds each time. This causes the new turbo to be primed with oil & you can check the injectors for any fuel leakage since I replaced them at the same time. I did the engine cranking 3 times, then checked the injector areas for any fuel smell. I didn't smell anything so I did it a few more times. After that I replaced the fuse & she started right up! Make sure you load the correct map you will be running first though.
 

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If you turn it to the "on" position, you're only causing the fuel pump to run for a second. I don't believe you could gather any injector info by just doing that. I pulled inside fuse #11 (ignition). I turned the motor over 6-8 times, cranking it for 4-5 seconds each time. This causes the new turbo to be primed with oil & you can check the injectors for any fuel leakage since I replaced them at the same time. I did the engine cranking 3 times, then checked the injector areas for any fuel smell. I didn't smell anything so I did it a few more times. After that I replaced the fuse & she started right up! Make sure you load the correct map you will be running first though.
definitely use a safe map, as stated above. well, a safe map if youre running large injectors and dont have a map to match them already. just need something to get you to your tuner w/o fouling everything up.
 
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What sort of performance upgrade/boost did you notice? Any? I want to get the Deatchwerks Injectors for my regular WRX and I am not sure if it's worth the $? I don't have many other upgrades (Apex'i grounding, Greddy exhaust, Blitz TT, Perrin lightweight crank pulley, etc)... Should I not waste my time with this upgrade until I've put some more $ into other areas of the car (i.e. handling, COBB software, etc)?
 

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What sort of performance upgrade/boost did you notice? Any? I want to get the Deatchwerks Injectors for my regular WRX and I am not sure if it's worth the $? I don't have many other upgrades (Apex'i grounding, Greddy exhaust, Blitz TT, Perrin lightweight crank pulley, etc)... Should I not waste my time with this upgrade until I've put some more $ into other areas of the car (i.e. handling, COBB software, etc)?
Higher flowing injectors are usually only needed for turbo upgrades. Do it when you decide what turbo you want to upgrade to down the road. Depending on what turbo you get will determine what flow rate you'll need. You will need some sort of engine management whenever you replace the downpipe or get bigger turbo/injectors. I would look into replacing your uppipe with a catless version for a cheap upgrade that helps you to build boost about 500 rpms sooner. Check out these links for more info.
Injector sizing chart
I highly suggest reading most of the links found here. Enjoy.
Unabomber's Manifesto
 
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