Subaru WRX Forum banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, not sure if this forum is the best place to ask about this but I have a huge problem. On sunday I took my 2010 WRX on a spirited road trip. Lots of wot and general heavy driving. Once before when I first got the car I did the same and the next day my cel was on, code came back tgv stuck and oil was low. I was concerned but changed the oil, no metal shavings and nothing ever happened again.
Now.
My wife drive the car Monday, and today when she picked me up I see the cel is on. I check, no oil on dipstick at all. Starting it up I can tell it's starting hard, even with the new oil. Not choking but taking longer to start than the usual instant ignition. While driving I notice the turbo makes a weird almost rattle if I boost too much or too quick. Slowly building boost it doesn't happen. What now? How ****ed am I? Do I need to rebuild my turbo? What about my motor, why is it still starting hard with oil and what do I do about it??? Also where did my oil go? I don't see a leak anywhere and like I said it seems to be related to me driving it hard for extended periods. Last Sunday the oil was full, that's when I checked last. Please help, I was about to start buying parts for a stage 2 build and now I'm thinking I'm going to be spending that money on an engine and turbo rebuild it sell the car for fear it's ruined ?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,723 Posts
If you have a TGV issue that can cause starting issues. The deletes can sometimes cause hard starts as well as unsteady idle that is more notable while cold. From what I'm told its normal. Low oil shouldn't cause a hard start, just a really hard end that is usually loud and knocky.

I would first address why you are burning oil. I would suspect you lost a turbo seal, or may be burning it in a cylinder if you have a cracked ring land. I would run a compression and leakdown test just to ensure the pistons and cylinders are ok. Then I would contact a shop about checking the turbo. It shouldn't be rattling at all. However, a shop will be able to check the turbo properly instead of just taking random stabs in the dark online based off of a rough description of the problem.

Once the turbo has been diagnosed good or bad, then you can make a judgement on whats in the best interest for your car and walled. Rebuild or new factory unit.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top