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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I went to Midas today and they told me I need to replace my right front axle ($340 per axle) and rear struts ($730 for both) because they are leaking. Below are pics. I don't hear and feel anything wrong when I make turns. I do feel vibrations when I hit the brakes at high speed on the highway. I have an automatic 2006 WRX Limited with 57K miles. They also said I need these fluid services, differential, transmission and fueling.

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There is no fuel fluid service.

The axle may be salvageable but you will nonetheless have to replace the boots. Do not use imitation parts; use authentic Subaru parts if you replace the boots. If you replace the axle, search on this forum for info on the one good known source for rebuilt axles, or pay extra and buy a Subaru rebuilt axle from the dealer.

None of this should solve your high speed braking issue.
 

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^ This.

And it is coming close to your 60k mile service (tranny fluid, diff. fluid, oil change, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ouch it's gonna cost me $1200 including the fluids services. $340 for one front axle and $730 for both rear struts, the fluids services should be about $150 I think.
 

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You've not defined what "it" is but in any case: It doesn't have to cost that. Shop around, including independent Subaru specialists. You don't know what's necessary, and at least one of the fluid services quoted to you does not exist.
 

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They probably mean a fuel filter replacement if it's coming up on the 60k service.

I'd have your brake rotors looked at as well as that is more than likely the issue with the vibrations you feel. 60k might also be time to replace the rotors if they've been turned a few times.

The car isn't going to fail completely cause your struts are leaking (you don't want them to go unfixed for any long period of time, but you should have a little time to shop...disclaimer: not responsible if car does completely fail...sorry have to cover my ass here :rotfl:)...there have to be cheaper options for the struts available to you, even if you source OE spec parts yourself and just pay for labor.
 

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The seal on the inner side of the CV boot is missing which is why it's leaking. I'd find a creative way to inject grease into it and put a hose clamp on there to seal it and see how long you get out of it. If it's not making any noise yet, then it'll probably be fine for a while. You'll hear it start to fail and then you can get it replaced.

It's impossible to tell on the struts from a couple of pictures. It comes down to how the car is operating.
 

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I had my front axles rebuilt locally for $100 each axle plus $100 for R&R each. AutoZone's axles are only $6x, but we don't know how they last. But that is a significant difference to consider. I would have gambled on that instead of $3xx for Subaru parts if I couldn't get my OE axle rebuilt local.

If the strut is leaking, there's nothing to do but replace them (as a set is preferred).
 

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These are the only good axles other than new OEM (you don't have to do them in pairs with these): MW Enterprises, quality remanufactured Subaru Axles

I can't see if that inner clamp is there, but if not you should use the real clamp. Otherwise maybe you can just tighten that clamp. Either way run it until it fails unless it starts really slinging grease.

$730 for rear struts only is rediculous. It is at most a two hour job for a home mechanic without a lift. Much better than OEM struts can be had for much less. Maybe buy your own struts and take them to an independent to install if you can't DIY. However, it is better to do all 4 at once. KYB GR2 would be ~$350 for all four, I'd pay less than $200 for install.
 

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Aha thanks for that link.

Whether you replace the boots or the entire axle use a paint pen to mark the strut location at the bolts do that you do not lose camber adjustment.

Mark everything in the rear too should you change dampers but at least back there the adjustment is graduated so it's easier to see.

Axle boots are messy, but do both if you decide to replace any. There are two different types of bands, one is notched and the other sardine tin style (you'll see what I mean).

For the suspension work don't over torque the top main bolt.
 

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^ Indeed, that will save the alignment shop considerable effort. Since you will need an alignment you should read the sticky in the suspension forum about how to get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just had an independent car repair shop take a look at it and they told me the struts and axles are fine, no replacement needed. Midas is such a rip off. The front brake rotors need to be replaced however. The independent shop quote me $300 including labor for them and Midas quote me $230. the difference is that independent shop uses Subaru parts while Midas probably uses aftermarket parts. Should i go for the independent auto shop or Midas? My car is a 2006 so I don't know if it's worth the extra costs.
 

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KNSbrakes.com

Order the parts and do them yourself with whatever you chose. Brakes are easy on Subarus. Even if you don't do it yourself, you can have someone do the labor and still save a good chunk of cash on the parts.
 

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The axles are not fine. The boots do need replacement.

I would not have a problem with an independent shop doing my brakes in any case.
 

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Well holy ****, there's your answer...

I'm yet to ever go to a decent Midas. They employ morons.

I had a Midas across the street from my old house in Philly, and keep in mind, I am always skeptical of a Midas anyway. This was with my 350Z...had them do an oil change cause well, it was right across the street. Get the car back, head to the beach for the weekend...my car was smoking as I pulled up to my shore house...turns out it was just oil burning off the engine, but they spilled oil all over the damn engine bay! Like wtf??? I was vigilant for a good two weeks until it all fully burnt off.

Then I had bought an Injen exhaust to put on...which is something I'd do myself without a problem, but I had just had shoulder surgery and couldn't wrench myself for a good 5 months. So...$100, why not have Midas take care of some bolts. Simple right? Well they call me up saying the exhaust wasn't made for my car!!! I walk over, they have it laid out on the ground (WTF? you're going to scratch the chrome!)...and it's oriented all wrong. They keep trying to show me that it won't go on there...and I just tell them "ok, that's fine...pack it up. I'll go somewhere else." That night, went to my buddy's house cause he offered to help get it on...and bam...two hours later, nice sounding Injen exhaust MADE for my 350Z...on the 350Z. Longest part was torching off the rusted stock bolts considering it was a 2003 :rotfl:

Stay away from Midas.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
So I chose Midas to replace my front brake rotors because of lower price $230 vs $300 elsewhere. The new Midas front brake rotors are bigger than the Subaru rear brake rotors, is this OK? At what mm measurement must the brake pads be replaced? I have lifetime warranty on Midas brake pads. It was at 6mm and they say it does not need to be replaced yet. It only has 7K miles on the pads.
 

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The front rotors are larger than the rear rotors. I wouldn't have gone to Midas to do the brakes...did you read any of the reviews of what you posted??? I wouldn't have let them even look at my car after reading that...:sadwave:

The pads should be fine with that, however they may have to be bedded in since you're having new rotors put on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just found out about Yelp reviews today. I'm a sucker for lower price. I also have Midas lifetime warranty on the brake pads, so maybe I should just go to Midas for brake pads replacement and oil change only and elsewhere for other jobs.
 

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Consider how they make money on lifetime brake pads before deciding.

In case I wasn't clear, and because I don't see an answer, I'll restate that I feel your axles are not OK. At a minimum you need new boots. If it were my car, I'd do both inner and outer boots on both sides (the other side is just a matter of time usually) using authentic Subaru parts: boots, bands, retaining pins, axle nuts. I'd buy aftermarket axle grease though. If you can't do both sides, do the one that's juicy now, and save up for the other side later. If you let it go, you will need an axle and if that's the case, get an authentic Subaru reman unit and/or see that link for the one trusted aftermarket site.

Good luck and enjoy the forum!

SD
 
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