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Discussion Starter #1
I called a Tuner yesterday that specializes in Subaru's here in Michigan. I called in reference to some modifications I have made and am going to make in the next week...I was surprised with what I was told...looking for a second opinion.

What I have:
- Cobb SF Intake
- TBE
- Process West TMIC (still need to install)
- Grimmspeed Boost Selenoid (still need to install)
- Cobb Access port - Currently mapped to Stage 2+ 93

I was informed that the Cobb map will work for the mods that I have; I do NOT need a protune...is this true? I also was told that the Up-pipe on the 2011 is a waste of money to upgrade...what are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 

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You'll need to tweak the WGDC tables at a minimum for the EBCS.

The uppipe is not a waste of money to upgrade, but I wouldn't bother until you're swapping turbos or going EWG, personally.
 

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Even if you could get away with a Cobb OTS stage 2 map, why would you? With the new TMIC and EBCS, you could gain 30+ whp and tq over Cobb's tune. Please, get a protune....but maybe not from the tuner that says you don't need one for an EBCS.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice...I never intended to use the Cobb maps after the EBCS and TMIC...threw me off when he said that I would only really see like +3 gain from both sides. This is really weird..the guy has been known for tuning some great rally/street Subi'

Maybe I have to look outside the state for reliable tuners...
 

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I remember chatting with you before, so I knew where you were heading. :) It just sounds like either he's not understanding something or you need a different tuner. Feel free to use my info (same setup) to show him your goal/path. PM me if you need more info or details.
 

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Why did you not just call Cobb and ask them? The EBCS will 100% not work with an OTS map that uses the stock solenoid. The wastegate duty cycles are very different with a 3-port. You would severely overboost. Not to mention the stock BCS is setup in a "bleed" style configuration and usually a 3-port is set up in a "block/hold" type setup. There are plenty of good tuners here in the US.
 

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Even if you could get away with a Cobb OTS stage 2 map, why would you? With the new TMIC and EBCS, you could gain 30+ whp and tq over Cobb's tune. Please, get a protune....but maybe not from the tuner that says you don't need one for an EBCS.
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This past weekend I went ahead and threw on the Process West TMIC and Forge BOV...I am going to put my AOS and EBCS on shortly and get it professionally tuned..but in the mean time I have a question.

I get a "sucking" sound almost like a straw when getting at around 3K...I'm not certain where its coming from but I thought maybe from the BOV hoses? The tubing seems so tight that the air wouldn't be able to flow so effectively...?

Also, I get a sound, almost like a backfire sometimes when slowing down (just to the point where it falls out of boost it seems)...is that just because I need to get it tuned after adding the TMIC and BOV, or do you think there could be more to it?

Thanks!
 

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zaubuchon182 said:
This past weekend I went ahead and threw on the Process West TMIC and Forge BOV...I am going to put my AOS and EBCS on shortly and get it professionally tuned..but in the mean time I have a question.

I get a "sucking" sound almost like a straw when getting at around 3K...I'm not certain where its coming from but I thought maybe from the BOV hoses? The tubing seems so tight that the air wouldn't be able to flow so effectively...?
Pressure test the system

zaubuchon182 said:
Also, I get a sound, almost like a backfire sometimes when slowing down (just to the point where it falls out of boost it seems)...is that just because I need to get it tuned after adding the TMIC and BOV, or do you think there could be more to it?
You get afterfire upon gas pedal release? If so, it's likely due to the Cobb base map being rich.
 

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I highly suggest you do not install the EBCS until you get to the tuner. It only takes like 10 minutes to install.
 

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Which spring do you have in the Forge BPV? The yellow one that came with it, not the green, right? I'm on the yellow plus one spacer for 20.5 max boost.
Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

Are all of your hose connections/clamps for the PW TMIC and BPV tight? Check for leaks and tighten those clamps down with a ratchet, not just a philips. I know the BPV hose doesn't line up too well after the install, so be sure to line that one up the best you can and tighten it down with a real hose clamp, not the pinch style one that was on the stocker.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Which spring do you have in the Forge BPV? The yellow one that came with it, not the green, right? I'm on the yellow plus one spacer for 20.5 max boost.
Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

Are all of your hose connections/clamps for the PW TMIC and BPV tight? Check for leaks and tighten those clamps down with a ratchet, not just a philips. I know the BPV hose doesn't line up too well after the install, so be sure to line that one up the best you can and tighten it down with a real hose clamp, not the pinch style one that was on the stocker.
Yes, the yellow

Did you use the tubing that came with the BPV or something else? Ill make sure everything is 100% tight...gonna go buy some new clamps to replace that pinch one I have on it right now.
 

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Cool.

I needed to reroute my boost gauge T and tubing to make more room for the damn GS AOS and Master Cylinder Brace anyway, so I bought a box tubing ("Thermoid Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing" - 7/32"). You can pick up a box of 6' at any auto store for like 8-10 bucks.

Just to save you some time - The heads of the clamps for the PW hoses are 9/32"

ps - So how did the TMIC install go? That bell housing bolt for the brace kick your butt, too? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Install went surprisingly great! I had a buddy helping me out, so maybe that's why I didn't seem to stumble?

I'm going to go home and tighten everything up tonight and see if that makes a difference...as for the popping sound...my gawd it scares me sometimes, I hope its "normal"

Now all I need is to tap into the clock power for the boost gauge and then figure out how to install the oil temp gauge...any direction for this one?
 

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