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DIY: Morimoto HID Retrofit - 2016 WRX Base

6150 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  B0Osted16rex
Hey guys, I just got finished installing the Morimoto HID retrofit kit and the Diode Dynamics C-light switchbacks. Additionally, I added the DRL module from DD as well. I took about a couple dozen or so pictures of the process so I figured I would share my experience for those of you who need some guidance down the line. Mainly so you don't have to guess since there are no formal instructions included and the SubiSpeed video is outdated and incomplete. If you have any questions feel free to ask or shoot me a PM.

Time. This entire project took place over the course of 2 days but is very doable on Saturday if you have a full day to work with.
~ 1 hour getting the bumper and headlights out.
Baking and painting the headlights took about 20 minutes of actual work time but about 5 hours of drying time.
The retrofit took about an hour total for both headlights.
The wiring ~ 2 hours.
Reassembly and cleanup ~2 hours.

First, the parts. This was all purchased from SubiSpeed:
Morimoto HID's: Morimoto Retro-quik Bi-Xenon HID Headlight Retrofit Kit - 2015+ WRX - Lighting - 2015+ WRX
DD C-lights: Diode Dynamics Switchback LED C-light DRLs for Headlights - 2015+ WRX / 2015+ STI - C-Light / Boomerang - Lighting - 2015+ WRX

Don't be intimidated by all of the wires, this endeavor is relatively easy. Patience is key. And yes, this is a Snapchat video, deal with it.

I am not going to tell you how to remove the bumper, there are already a million videos on YouTube. I am also not going to tell you how to take out the headlights since there are several videos on how to do that as well.

I will be starting at the point that you have baked the headlights and pulled off the clear lens.

At this point, if you are not doing anything with the front housing (the piece that is attached to the clear lens) you can just set aside. In my case, since I had to open up the headlights to do the retrofit I also took the opportunity to paint the housings black. I. hate. fake. chrome. :mad: I just picked up a can of Rust-oleum primer and a can of Rust-oleum satin black paint. 3 coats of primer and 5 coats of black and they were looking pretty good.

There are only 3 screws holding this piece into the lens. The side marker covers pop off from the back side with 3 small tabs and the C-light covers also pop off of this piece from the back. I did need a set of pliers to squeeze a couple of the C-light tabs to remove them. No pictures, sorry.

I didn't take a picture of them painted for some reason but you'll see it in the next set of pictures....somewhere down below.

Alright, where was starting from the back, we need to get the OEM lights and harness off. To do this we just need to remove 1 screw. Once removed, you can twist off the high beam, low beam, C-light bulb (base), and side-marker light. Once those are off, you should be able to pull the entire harness off of the headlight and set it aside.

Next, we need to separate the inner housing (the reflector assembly and OEM projector housing) from the black plastic shroud. To do this, there are three (3) screws that need to be loosened. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, take a picture or use a sharpie on the threads poking through the front so you can reinstall in the approximate location without needing to make a ton of adjustments later (it's a PIA). Don't say I didn't warn you.

These are the thread locations that I am referring to.

On the back, these are the 3 screws you will need to loosen. One of them has a rubber cap and another one has a rubber piece that prevents it from rotating. Pop both of these off. The screws are captive so just keep an eye on the reflector part. Once all three are out, the only thing left holding the reflector in is the two rubber seals on the back. You can just pull on the housing and it will pop out.

Now for the fun part, swapping the OEM projector for the HID housing. This again is not a difficult process, it just requires patience and a reasonably steady hand. First step is to unscrew the four screws holding the OEM projector housing in place.

Once those screws are removed, pull out the OEM projector and you should be looking at this.

Now it's time to prep the Morimoto HIDs. For this part we will be needing the mounting bracket that comes with the SubiSpeed kit.

First we need to remove the 6 screws (3 on each side) holding the HID lens to the rear reflector. You can set these aside, they will not be reused.

Place the new black mounting bracket between the lens and rear housing and use the longer screws included to reattach. Note the orientation of the bracket. The opening should be at the botton to leave room for the high beam cutoff solenoid. It should look like this when you are done.

We can now insert the new HID assembly back into the OEM reflector shroud. Again, note the orientation. The high beam solenoid/actuator should be at the bottom. If you look closely at the back of the HID there is a indicator for "top". You will reuse the 4 OEM screws you removed earlier to reattach the HID. Once complete you should have an assembly that looks like this.

Next, we need to attach the high beam signal wires to the HID. In the Morimoto box is a baggie with several items, among them is a small two wire (brown and white) harness and a large connector for the exposed pins. DO NOT PUT THE PINS IN THE PROVIDED CONNECTOR! This gets attached after the wires are fed through the housing.

The small connector goes on the back of the HID in the bottom right corner, here.

Now we can begin reassembling everything. The reflector housing can go back into the black plastic shroud. Be sure to feed the two wires for your high beams through the C-light hole, or you can drill a small hole in the housing to feed them through. IF you use the C-light hole you will not be able to reattach the OEM connector. This is where a picture of the threads comes in handy. You want to get the housing in roughly the same location as it was. You can make adjusts once the headlights are back in the car but it is a little more tedious so getting it as close as possible is beneficial.

From here things will vary, in my case, I also installed the DD C-lights/switchbacks and painted my housing.This is what it will look like once reassembled.
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Admittedly, I did not take any pictures of the wiring. So i will be using a couple pictures from Morimoto's site to explain.

You should have several items that came with this kit.
A dual 40 amp relay harness. This has two leads that connect to the battery, two connectors that run to the headlights, and one connector that connects to the driver side OEM low beam (for signal).
A pair of XB35 computers
A pair of ignitors
A pair of splitters (for the high beams)
Your new HID bulbs

The first thing you want to do is get the bulbs installed. In the baggie that came with the HID's there is a metal retention clip. The bulb only fits in the socket one way and this retention clip goes over top. I don't have pictures of that but I have faith you can figure it out. If not, here is the diagram from Morimoto.

By this point you may realize that the OEM rubber backing does not seal around the new HID. As far as I am aware there are no options to fix this. I will be working on 3D printing a cap that seals the back properly. Anyway, moving on, you can reinstall your OEM wiring harness onto the back of the headlight. The only modification you will make if you are just doing the HID retrofit is the high beam splitter. You basically want to wire that so the signal connection goes to the OEM plug, the first pigtail goes back to the OEM high beam, and the second pigtail goes to the high beam wires coming from the HID. If you haven't done so already, the connector needs to be attached to the HID signal wires. See below diagram. At this point your headlight wiring should be complete.

(OPTIONAL) I went a little bit further since i replaced the C-light with DD's kit, and also removed the sidemarker lights. Because the DD kit had a ton of wires (DRL harness and switchback harness) i decided to trim the OEM harness of any wires i did not need to make a little room. On the passenger side I cut the harness all the way back to the OEM connector. I left about 3 inches to make my wire taps for the C-light. The high beam is on a separate lead so i left that in tact. On the driver's side, you need to maintain the OEM low beam connection so the only thing i was able to trim there was the sidemarker light and C-light wiring. Again, I don't have any pictures of this. It is not really relevant to the HID install though.

Now, I chose to mount my main harness with 3M tape because i did not want to drill anywhere. Some tips on the harness. The lead for the OEM low beam connection on the driver side is not very long so be careful of where you mount it. Additionally, make sure your passenger side wire will reach before you attach anything. The best spot that i found for it was on top of the washer fluid reservoir, underneath the battery. It is very easy to get to with the bumper removed. I also pulled out the battery just to make things a little easier. This is a horrible picture but you get the idea.

At this point, you can reinstall your headlights, but first you are going to want to attach the bulb wires to the bulb and then subsequently attach the igniters. They are both in clearly marked packages. This is just going to give you the play you need to make the final connections since you cant really reach the back of the bulbs very well once the headlights are reinstalled. Some pointers here, obviously don't forget to reconnect the two OEM harnesses. More importantly, you need to connect the driver's side low beam connector to the Morimoto main relay harness. There should be one connector that has an adapter on it. Make sure this is seated correctly. The plug will go in both ways, but will only snap in once in the correct orientation.

Now we just need to make the final connections. The igniters will plug into the computers (see below) and then the main relay harness will also plug into the computer.

At this point. The only remaining item is the power. You have two wires that need to be connected to the battery. The fused wire is the positive. Make your connections and test everything out. Here is the full wiring diagram for reference.

I placed my driver side computer behind the fuse box. It is just wedged in there along with the excess battery wires.

For the passenger side wire, I removed 3 of the radiator fan bolts and fed the wire underneath them. This makes for a much cleaner setup and I don't have to worry about anything getting caught in the pulleys or radiator fan blades.

My passenger side computer is just taped (temporarily) to the top of the OEM air box. I am installing my GrimmSpeed intake next week so i will relocate it at that point once i have more room to work with.

And here are some pictures. I will try to get a video or two of the finished product sometime next week.

DD C-light Switchbacks. Now functioning as my DRL's and my only turn signal. Lower turn signal bulbs were removed.

DRL's with Morimoto HID's

My low beam pattern (still need to fine tune)

My high beams (Morimoto bulbs + OEM high beam). I will be replaceing the OEM high beam bulbs next week. They didn't arrive in time.

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Wow! A little late to the party I am, but nice job! Looks like a lot of work. As much as I would like to change my base headlight look I don't think I will be going this route. Are they still holding up?
Wow! A little late to the party I am, but nice job! Looks like a lot of work. As much as I would like to change my base headlight look I don't think I will be going this route. Are they still holding up?
Honestly, it wasnt too bad. A little tedious, but by no means difficult. I had an issue with one of my ballasts after about a year but SubieSpeed sent me a replacement. I haven't had any issues since. I never did get around to capping off the back of the housing so it's been open to the elements for almost 2 years now. SubieSpeed also never sent me the retrorubber I ordered with this kit so I ended up just using black RTV to reseal the housing since I was on a time crunch. I am still very happy with the end result and having quad high beams is very helpful for dark roads. I am actually wanting to install some demon eyes into the HID housing so I may open them up again in the near future to do that. That is, if the wife allows me too haha.

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