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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright....this is just going to be a quick and dirty thread for removing the transmission on a 15+ WRX. I spent hours trying to find helpful info on the subject but most of it was not relevant to the new transmission. I don't have a ton of pictures, but I hope what i do have helps. I have included most of the bolt/nut sizes where I could. I also have all the important torque specs for things down at the bottom of the thread. Lastly, all of the pictures I have taken can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmiCsivc

First and foremost, just a quick list of needed/helpful tools:
  • 3/8 and/or 1/2 Ratchet
  • 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm sockets
  • 32 mm Socket (Axle Nuts)
  • T70 Torx (Trans Drain Plug)
  • Torque Wrench (At least 150 ft/lbs)
  • Varying Extensions
  • 10, 12, 14 mm Crescent Wrenches or Ratcheting Wrenches
  • Jack Stands (4 recommended)
  • Standard Jack w/ Some Wood Blocks
  • Transmission Jack (highly, highly recommended)
  • Brake Cleaner
  • Decent Size Pry Bar
  • Lube
  • Propane or MAP Gas Torch
  • A Good Work Light(s)
I shouldn't have to say this but just a good rule of thumb when working on anything with a lot of bolts and/or parts. You have two options:
  1. Put all of the bolts/nuts you remove from the part you are working on BACK IN THE HOLE IT CAME OUT OF ONCE THE PART IS REMOVED SO YOU DON'T LOSE ANYTHING
  2. Put all of the bolts/nuts your remove from the part you are working on IN A PLASTIC BAG OR SOLO CUP THAT IS LABELED WITH THE PART YOU JUST REMOVED!

PARTS THAT MUST BE REPLACED WITH NEW OEM PARTS:
Oil Drain Plug Gasket - P/N: 803926090


Axle Nuts (2) - P/N: 902170049




Before you jack up the car....
Things That MUST be REMOVED From The Engine Bay:
TMIC



Passenger IC Bracket


Pitch Stop Brace (Just the dog bone needs to be removed.)



Two Upper Transmission Bolts (One bolt goes through the starter on the drivers side. The passenger side bolt holds the bracket for the electrical harness. *These two bolts are the only two long bolts in the transmission*)



Things That MUST be DISCONNECTED In The Engine Bay:
Radio Ground Strap (right above and to the left of the pitch-stop brace)


Orange Electrical Harness Connector (You would have had to have pulled this off the metal tab attached to the passenger IC bracket you should have removed already.)


Two Smaller Electrical Plugs Right Under Big Orange Plug. The bracket these are attached to is held on by one of the long transmission bolts. I forgot to put mine back on before putting the bolt in which is why mine is zip tied.


Slave Cylinder Assembly (Can be hung on the A/C hard-lines. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY HYDRAULIC LINES!)


***THERE IS NO CLUTCH FORK RELEASE PIN FOR THIS TRANSMISSION! DONT WASTE TIME LOOKING FOR THE HEXBOLT BECAUSE IT ISNT THERE!***

Under Car AFTER You Remove/Disconnect the Above Items:
  1. Jack Up Car and Place on Jack stands
  2. Remove Front Wheels (19mm)
  3. With Someone in the Car, Standing on the Brake Pedal, Break Axle Nuts, Remove and Discard. *If you don't have someone to help you can take the wheels off, pop out the center caps, loosely put them back on the car, set the car on the ground, and then break the nuts loose.
  4. Remove Transmission Drain Plug and Drain Fluid (T70 Torx Bit)
  5. Disconnect and Remove Exhaust Midpipe (J-Pipe Can Stay)
  6. Remove Exhaust Heat Shield (4 Bolts)
  7. Loosen and Remove Rear Driveshaft Bolts (4 10mm bolts. Will need wrench for this)
  8. Remove Center Driveshaft Hanger (2 Bolts)
  9. Mark Driveshaft Alignment on the the front and rear diff.
  10. Pull Driveshaft From Transmission & Set Aside
  11. Take a Fine Point Marker or a Punch and Mark the Orientation on the Upper Bolt on the Lower Part of Your Front Struts (This is your camber bolt)
  12. Remove Bolt Holding Brake Line to Strut Tower (12mm)
  13. Remove Bolt Holding ABS Sensor and Move Out of the Way (10mm)
  14. Remove Two Bolts From Lower Strut Assembly (19mm)
  15. Remove Front Axle From Wheel Assembly and Rest on Lower Control Arm
  16. Replace Transmission Drain Plug and Move Catch Can Out of The Way (T70 Torx)
  17. Using a Pry Bar, Gently Pry The Axle Out of the Transmission (It will pop and then you can wiggle it out by hand)
  18. Repeat on Opposite Side
  19. Remove All Remaining Transmission Bolts/Nuts (S = Short Bolt)


  20. Get Starter Tucked Out of the Way in Engine Bay
  21. Place Your Transmission Jack Under Transmission
  22. Remove Shift Cable Holder

  23. Disconnect Shift Cables from Shift Box (Remove 4 bolts holding dust cover on then unclip cables)
  24. Remove 4 Rear Transmission Mount Bolts & 2 Transmission Mount Nuts
  25. Remove 2 Front Transmission Mount Bolts
  26. Remove Transmission Mount
  27. Wiggle Your Transmission Furiously Until It Decides It Wants to Come Off of the Engine (I had to use a combination of lube, a pry bar, and a torch to gain compliance.)
Important Torque Specs:
Flywheel - 55 ft/lbs
Pressure Plate - 26 ft/lbs
Transmission Bolts & Nuts (6 bolts, 2 nuts)- 37 ft/lbs
Transmission Brace - 2 x 17mm bolts - 103 ft/lbs, 4 x 14mm bolts - 52 ft/lbs
Rear Driveshaft Bolts (4)- 23 ft/lbs
Center Driveshaft Bolts (2) - 38 ft/lbs
New Axle Nuts (2) - 162 ft/lbs + punch the nut to lock it in place.
Slave Cylinder (2) - 27 ft/lbs


*Standard Disclaimer* Use this info at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage you do to your car while following these instructions. I am not a mechanic. I am just sharing my knowledge with you in an effort to make your life a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
EDIT: All pictures that I currently have are added, Torque specs have been added to the bottom of the OP, and a link to all of the pictures I took are at the beginning of the OP. If you have any questions just ask!
 

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2016 Subaru WRX
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Awesome!!! Great write-up. I much prefer this to removing the engine for a clutch replacement. Working through it now, I'll let you know how it goes!!!
 

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2016 Subaru WRX
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Great guide. Was able to replace my clutch in a weekend. Only took as long as it did because I had fun getting the transmission lined up again (gotta love those splines on input shafts). Tear down and rebuild probably took a total of 7 hours in my driveway, so totally could be a one day job! Now my WRX is shifting smoothly!! Thanks again, this info is hard to find online.
 
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