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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My latest project: Painting fender badges.

There are two things I don't understand.
1) Why ANYONE in their right mind would pay 70USD for two pieces of plastic
2) Why everyone on youtube seems to think that you should remove your sideskirt and fender to remove your badges. This is just stupid, and is asking to break more stuff.

The badges are taped on with double sided tape. There is a plastic peg on each end to ensure the badge is centered. It can be removed within 10 minutes by using fishing line or maybe even floss.

1) Do the job on a hot day, or use a hair dryer to heat everything up. No need to go overboard though, just get everything nice and warm.
2) Put some masking tape around your emblem to make doubly sure you won't scratch your paint. I wanted to do this but couldn't, because I had just finished waxing my car and the tape wouldn't stick lol
3) Loop a piece of floss under the front tip of the badge
4) Work it back and forth a bit, but be sure to not be holding the floss/fishing line to close to the paint. You don't want to put grooves in your paint accidentally. Hold the floss so it comes out from behind the badge perpendicular to your car. Use common sense. Note that there is a peg on each side. I recommended starting on the side closest to the front of the car, because the "peg" is smaller and easier to jump the floss/fishing line over in order to keep moving forward
IMG_20160616_165601.jpg


5) Once you've made about 1cm of progress in lifting the badge off, put something under it to keep it slightly lifted off your car and start re-heating the adhesive that you can now see with the hair dryer. Once it's warm, pull the badge off a bit and use an exacto knife to start cutting adhesive (this is optional - BE VERY CAREFUL IF USING IT. Pretend you're playing operation. DO NOT RUSH, DO NOT SCRATCH YOUR PAINT)
IMG_20160616_165616.jpg

6) If you get your adhesive warm enough, you can probably get away without the exacto knife but this helps ensure that you don't break the badge by needing to pull too aggressively.
7) Take your time, and alternate between gently pulling, warming and cutting until you've worked the whole badge off.
IMG_20160616_170140.jpg

Once you've gotten both badges off, it is time to prep them and paint.
In the Mazda world, I learned that the best way to paint chrome'd plastic is to strip the chrome finish by placing the badge in a bleach bath for ~1 day. This eats the chrome right off, and allows you to get maximum adherence. Google it if you want to go this route.
Since I want to use the same paint on my headlights and want to know how well it WILL stick to chrome, I decided to skip this step and just apply the paint directly. Will update the OP later on with info on durability.

8) Wash badges in soap and water
9) Hit them with 4-6 light coats of some sort of plastic paint of your choice. I used Krylon dual superbond (gloss black) in lieu of Krylon fusion because it was on sale for crazy cheap and seemed like it would do just as good a job (just with a slightly longer drying time)
10) Wait for base coat to be completely cured (or use a compatible paint) and paint the letters, carefully by hand. Or pay $10 for vinyl inlays if you failed kindergarten.

IMG_20160616_185227.jpg

11) Done.
IMG_20160616_185943.jpg



12) Once fully dry, reinstall with fresh double sided tape if the original stuff was removed or isn't sticky enough.





Spend the $70USD (or 100CAD) you saved on something that's not a waste of money.

Be sure to post if this helps you out :)
 

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Thanks for posting this - nice work. I'm on Plasti-dip attempt #3, which finally seems to be holding up. But, it's Plasti-dip and real paint looks so much better. I've also seen those YouTube video(s) where everything gets torn off to remove the badges and have shied away from going that route. I like your simple solution and will try that before going on to Plasti-dip attempt #4!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Glad to help! Yeah, I avoid plastidip for anything that I have no intention of ever reversing. Blacking out a bumper, or testing what something will look like once blacked out, sure... but for everything else paint is the only way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, and I resemble that kindergarten remark - I paid my $10 for the inlays!
hehe :D
No offense intended, just trying to save people's hard earned $$s by pointing out coloring between the lines is something anyone can do!
 

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That's definitely the best way to remove that badge. Same technique us camaro/firebird guys (back when I used to have one) used to use to remove the sail panel (roof right behind t-tops). Those had a factory defect which allowed the glue that held on the panel to work its way through the fiberglass over a period of a few years causing bubbles. Huge pain in the ass. People would use piano wire and work it back and forth working their way across.
 

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I haven't done this myself, but plan on doing it soon. Trying to get rid of all the chrome/silver on my car.

Some of the videos I've watched said to take out the emblem from the door side first, because the tabs are oriented in such a way. I'm not sure if it matters and it obviously didn't since you had no issues, but I will try to remember to post my findings after I do this to my car.
 

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good job OP
i did this as well using almost the same technique but with enough heat from a hair dryer so i didnt need to use a razor. i did buy the subispeed inlays so the lettering is perfect, then finished it off with clear coat. it looks like it was professionally done for just a few $'s

IMG_3081.jpg
 

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That looks good. Much better than the chrome.

Has anyone done this without removing your emblems and just taping around it?
 

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What brand/type double sided tape did you use?
The best (stickiest) two-sided tape is 3M Industrial which I bought from Amazon. Put my roof spoiler on with it and probably now tear off the roof if I tried to remove the spoiler.

image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
That looks good. Much better than the chrome.

Has anyone done this without removing your emblems and just taping around it?
Only person I saw that did that just used plastidip. If you waxed your car first, then there is very little risk to your paint if you have some polish handy in case you screw up, HOWEVER, if your car has any wax on it at all painters tape will not stick which could be an issue. I wanted to tape off around the badge when I was using the fishing line in the corner, but couldn't because I had waxed my car like two months prior.

You might also have a hard time doing a good job. Just do it right the first time and remove them. As shown, it isn't that hard (unlike the dumb youtube videos that tell you to take off your whole fender)

***Update on paint durability***
Ok, krylon fusion on top of chrome isn't great, as I suspected. If you're gentle with it no problem. However at one point I rubbed it somewhat aggressively with my finger (trying to get something off) and after about 10s I rubbed right through the paint. Normally you would never do this, so there wouldn't be an issue, but I'm not a fan of doing half-ass jobs. If I were to do this again, I think I would either try sanding it down as much as possible, or try the bleach bath.
 

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My latest project: Painting fender badges.

There are two things I don't understand.
1) Why ANYONE in their right mind would pay 70USD for two pieces of plastic
2) Why everyone on youtube seems to think that you should remove your sideskirt and fender to remove your badges. This is just stupid, and is asking to break more stuff.

The badges are taped on with double sided tape. There is a plastic peg on each end to ensure the badge is centered. It can be removed within 10 minutes by using fishing line or maybe even floss.

1) Do the job on a hot day, or use a hair dryer to heat everything up. No need to go overboard though, just get everything nice and warm.
2) Put some masking tape around your emblem to make doubly sure you won't scratch your paint. I wanted to do this but couldn't, because I had just finished waxing my car and the tape wouldn't stick lol
3) Loop a piece of floss under the front tip of the badge
4) Work it back and forth a bit, but be sure to not be holding the floss/fishing line to close to the paint. You don't want to put grooves in your paint accidentally. Hold the floss so it comes out from behind the badge perpendicular to your car. Use common sense. Note that there is a peg on each side. I recommended starting on the side closest to the front of the car, because the "peg" is smaller and easier to jump the floss/fishing line over in order to keep moving forward
View attachment 261809


5) Once you've made about 1cm of progress in lifting the badge off, put something under it to keep it slightly lifted off your car and start re-heating the adhesive that you can now see with the hair dryer. Once it's warm, pull the badge off a bit and use an exacto knife to start cutting adhesive (this is optional - BE VERY CAREFUL IF USING IT. Pretend you're playing operation. DO NOT RUSH, DO NOT SCRATCH YOUR PAINT)
View attachment 261817

6) If you get your adhesive warm enough, you can probably get away without the exacto knife but this helps ensure that you don't break the badge by needing to pull too aggressively.
7) Take your time, and alternate between gently pulling, warming and cutting until you've worked the whole badge off.
View attachment 261825

Once you've gotten both badges off, it is time to prep them and paint.
In the Mazda world, I learned that the best way to paint chrome'd plastic is to strip the chrome finish by placing the badge in a bleach bath for ~1 day. This eats the chrome right off, and allows you to get maximum adherence. Google it if you want to go this route.
Since I want to use the same paint on my headlights and want to know how well it WILL stick to chrome, I decided to skip this step and just apply the paint directly. Will update the OP later on with info on durability.

8) Wash badges in soap and water
9) Hit them with 4-6 light coats of some sort of plastic paint of your choice. I used Krylon dual superbond (gloss black) in lieu of Krylon fusion because it was on sale for crazy cheap and seemed like it would do just as good a job (just with a slightly longer drying time)
10) Wait for base coat to be completely cured (or use a compatible paint) and paint the letters, carefully by hand. Or pay $10 for vinyl inlays if you failed kindergarten.

View attachment 261833

11) Done.
View attachment 261841



12) Once fully dry, reinstall with fresh double sided tape if the original stuff was removed or isn't sticky enough.





Spend the $70USD (or 100CAD) you saved on something that's not a waste of money.

Be sure to post if this helps you out :)
Nice job!
 
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