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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured this was motorsports related as this is a purpose built car for stage rally. Mods, feel free to move this to a more appropriate forum if you see necessary...

My name is Aaron and I have been building a Production GT class rally car out of a 2001 RS for about a year and a half now at the time of this post. Its taken me this long because I don't have a lot of money, but do have some patience and am willing to work hard to make the transition from weekend rallycross guy to stage rally driver!

If you get a chance be sure to drop by my website - The Off-Road Impreza Community.

The ENTIRE build history prior to today can be found here.
DirtyImpreza Project RS (roof scoop install pending) - DirtyImpreza Forums

Here's just some highlights to bring you up to speed.

Totally Stock RS:


Motor pulled for donor for another working stock motor / transmission.

cage building begins:

Seam welding:

Cage completed:

Interior painted:

Roof Reskinned:

Other motor swapped in:


Group N Motor / Tranny Mounts:

Roof vent installed:

Vinyl graphics applied:

Rally it!

Well that's about it for now. There is still plenty to do to the car to get it completely stage ready, but ill try to keep this thread updated. You can always see the latest on the Project Rally RS here.

Thanks! :)

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks freakin sweet! Is that a N/A 2.0 engine?
Its the stock 2.5L SOHC RS motor. Unfortunately for now, it has to remain relatively stock to compete in a production class. Way down the road it will be swapped once i have enough coefficients (and money) to compete in an Open class.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is some video from a recent rallycross event!


Onboard with driver A. Ekinaka at the Formula Rally X Glen Helen 2 rallycross held on 4/25/09. My friend Jeff brought along his GOPRO camera so we were able to get some cool angles while taking a lap around the 2 minute course. This was the second event that our 2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS turned rally car has entered and we finished strongly with 3rd place overall. Be sure to subscribe to our channel as there will be more videos featuring the Project Rally RS in action released in the future! Thanks for watching. If you like what you see here, please visit - The Off-Road Impreza Community

Runtime: 2:24
Produced by: 409industries
Copyright 2009 DirtyImpreza Enterprises
Try not to pay to much attention to my non-stop sawing of the wheel. I was kind of all over the place for a while. I never broke into the sub 2:00 times, but was pretty consistent all day. Only a couple of cones here and there, those few cones was enough to keep me from snagging second... D'oh!

Enjoy the video! Its been a while since i've released anything. I have to thank my buddy Jeff that was riding shotgun with me all day for bringing his GOPRO camera. They're pretty cool deals for $200. The files are somewhat hard to edit with in Premiere Pro, but thats another discussion all together...

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Roof Scoop Installed

I finally got some free time over the weekend to pay some attention to the RS. Car got a bath among other things, it actually looks pretty good clean. Its been covered in a layer of desert dust for so long, it almost looks like a brand new car (well not really...)

A few weeks ago, I randomly came across a guy on Nastysock selling what looked like a Rallispec roof scoop (that was painted black already!) for $80 shipped. The ad was over 5 months old, but I PM'd the guy anyway to see if he still had it, and he did! This just goes to show a few people actually rally on the biggest Subaru site in North! Anyway, this was a great find so i happily paid the guy his asking price for the scoop and he mailed it out. Brand new these things are around $200.

Install was a pain in the ass. This is another reason to not roll the car. I don't want to have to put another roof scoop on. The scoop didn't fit exactly with the RA roof vent because the vent door was slightly too large to fit under the "feet" on the inside of the scoop. I spent some time using the dremel to get everything cut out ok, but still leave enough material to drill the holes that the bolts will go through to hold the scoop on. Blue tape was used on the roof of the car so i could trace the outline of the scoop. Next the scoop was traced on a piece of cardboard where i marked the holes that were drilled in the fiberglass. The cardboard template was then matched onto the roof of the car so that the holes could be marked on the roof. This method worked out pretty well and i was able to get the holes drilled into the roof pretty accurately on the first try. I used some metric hardware from the local hardware store (bolts, locknuts, washers) to fasten everything down, snug but not too tight. Getting my hand into the scoop to hold a 10mm wrench and reaching into the car to ratchet from the inside was not easy. Im sure to anyone walking by it must have been a funny sight. So here it is, the RS with the roof scoop installed!

Gooped on some clear caulking on the bolts inside the car to hopefully keep the water out. We'll see how this goes next time i wash the car...

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So i've received quite a few comments about what mudflaps are being run on the Project Rally RS. The car is sponsored by our long time supporter RallyArmor Mudflaps.

(Yes the front bumper is off for some custom shennagins, more on that in the future)

They provided us many months ago with the same material that they send the Canadian teams that they sponsor. Referred to as the "mspec" mudflaps (short for Motorsport Specification) these flaps are made of Urethane I believe 7 times thicker than their standard UR mudflaps. I have seen many rally cars with broken / tattered mudflaps and I am more than confident that it is not going to happen to these bad boys. Even in freezing temperatures, frozen rocks hitting these will not cause any damage. If their standard UR mudflaps have lasted me 2 full rallycross seasons plus several DirtyMeets (and they still look brand new!!!) then these can take everything just short of a nuclear blast. ;-)

The flaps showed up on my doorstep has 4 large rectangles, so it was up to me to decide how and where to mount them up.

The rears were relatively simple to put on, although i did modify the inside edge to be more of an angle to clear some underbody components. They were attached to the bumper and and using one of RallyArmor's proprietary brackets from their GC line of flaps, i was able to secure the inside edge of the rear flap a bit better. Now, when (not if... but when) the rear bumper gets ripped off, these flaps are probably going go with it but i can hope that it wont... bumper?

The fronts, I used the factory tabs that are normally used to hold in the OEM fender liners to mount the outside edge of the flaps.

Also, on the inside edge I drilled some holes into the body of the car and tightened down a screw and washer in two spots. These front mudflaps aren't going anywhere. The whole front fender is going to have to get ripped off before these fall off. I figure its most beneficial to have the front flaps on real good, since they are going to help reduce how quickly things on the underside of the car get destroyed by gravel. The rears merely keep rocks from flying up in the air out the back of the car. :tongue:

So there you have it, the custom mudflaps on the Project Rally RS. I highly doubt these will ever go into full scale production due to the cost associated with getting the heavy-duty Urethane, but I never did get an official no from Costas. It is a very niche item since many people choose to build their own mudflaps out of things like cutting boards. Ikea flaps are cheap yes, but they will be destroyed after one stage rally. It just becomes a game of how valuable is your time when it comes to replacing shattered mudflaps after every event?

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rocks being hurled at your wiring harnesses at 100mph is not a comforting thought. So, since the front bumper is off the RS for another side project, i figured it would be a good time to protect some of the exposed vital electrical wiring on the car. In lieu of full fender liners, i am wrapping wiring in the wheel well area in some thick plastic tubing that is reinforced with fiberglass webbing. I think this is really for washing machines, it seems really tough though. I was able to buy this at my local hardware store.

Measure out a length of tubing that will cover as much wiring as possible. Cut it lengthwise so that it can be wrapped around the wires to be protected.

The front of the car is to the left, this is in front of the driver's side front tire. Wrap the wires with the gap in the tubing facing the front of the car. This will ensure that the rocks and debris by the tire being flung forward will hit the solid side of the tube, and not the "seam" side. Use zipties to pull the tubing around the wires tightly.

Then ziptie up the whole solid tube with wires to the inside of the wheel well, to keep it from moving around.

I also made sure to leave the tubing a bit long so that the bottom part extends past the inside of the wheel well out of harms way.

Periodically it would be a good idea to cut the zipties and clean out any dirt or rocks that accumulate inside the tubing. Also inspect for any frayed / worn wiring (hopefully there will be none, because of the protective tube!) The process was repeated on the passenger side to protect the wires over there too. I'll need to go back and take off the fender on the driver's side and get some of the other wires that run up along the top too, but the concept is exactly the same as this bundle. Maybe sometime down the road i will make some fender liners out of UHMW urethane for an extra level of protection but for now i need the money for other important components.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Day Stages Bumper

The concept is simple. Have two bumpers for the rally car, one that has some beautiful HID lights in it for the night stages, and one that does not. Simply swap the bumpers out at service so if I stuff the front end on a day stage i won't kill two of my Solteks. In addition to this, i figured it would be cool to cut out some more of the bumper for better airflow, and also install a screen to keep rocks from damaging the radiator fins too.

Backside of the stock RS bumper:

Dremel everything out you don't need:

Wire mesh material. I found this in the contractor's supply section of my local hardware store. It cost $5 for this huge sheet.

Cut the mesh to a rectangle roughly the size of the opening, cut the ends so that they can be folded neatly near the corners. Drill about 40-50 small holes all around the edge of the opening that was cut. Fold the metal mesh around the opening neatly then loop tiny 4" black zipties through the holes and then back through the mesh. The more zipties the better as i think this would spread the load more when a rock or stick hits the wire.

Cut off all the loose ends on the zipties.

From the front:

Closer look:

Install on the car and see how it looks:

Closer installed:

Super close up:

If you get really close to the bumper you can see all the zipties that look kind of like stitches. There is kind of a frankenstein look to the whole thing, but only if you really scrutinize the mesh. I think it turned out really well, and looks pretty hot. We will see how well it holds up to a direct rock hit.

Now I will need to throw together some kind of a quick release system to swap bumpers out at service when switching between day and night stages. Right now it can easily be done in 5 minutes, just pop the grill out and remove the snaps. There's only 1 on each side near the wheel wells too (5 total) surprisingly its on really sung.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First Car Show for the Project RS

Entry into The Monkey's Trunk car show at Chino Valley Subaru was free so it was a no brainer to enter. As soon as i heard that Ken Block was going to be there with the new Gymkhana car of his I definitely wanted to check it out. The turnout was pretty huge actually. Pre-registrations for the show were capped at 100 subies, and then another 50 or so were allowed to register the day of the event. On top of that there were a ton of cars out parked on the street, many of which could have easily been a part of the "show" too. Id estimate that there were probably 200 Subarus of all makes and models there that day.

The RS was pretty clean already, i wiped down some of the dust from the inside of the car and on the cage, and threw on the black BBS's from the STi. I figured it would look more like a tarmac rally car or something (except it sat way too high!). I was able to squat on Rally Innovation's vendor booth, so that was super cool of them. Having two rally cars next to each other in a sea of slammed / body kitted / polish lipped subies was good stuff.

Ken Block was signing autographs for hours. I heard he was only supposed to be there for 2 hours, but stuck around for over 4 to make sure that everyone got their posters, intakes, gauge pods, (pretty much anything that could be ripped of a car) signed. I waited until the line died down and got a poster and chatted with Ken for just a few moments. I was stoked that he asked how the site was doing... no idea if it was because he remembered me from interviews or X Games last year but it was cool regardless. I wished him good luck at X Games this year and mentioned that i'd be sure to catch up with him there. Hopefully he and Alex will do even better this year. Oh and the Gymkhana car is sick. I still like the old GD one better though, it has a full interior and no cage. sweet.

The show went extremely well. I was able to chat with lots of spectators who had questions about the lights, roll cage, and graphics. That's one thing that people really dig about rally cars... the lights.

Its super cool thought to see people poking their heads in the car, etc. I have a feeling i am really going to like the Parc Expose part of rallying :) Throughout the day i walked around the entire show and put a DI spotted card on just about EVERY single Subaru there. This was also a great opportunity to show of the sponsor decals on the car at a publicized event.

More to come soon!

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Getting Everything Lined Up

If there is anyone who knows precise alignment specs, its drift guys. My buddy Phi agreed to get me hooked up with a full alignment if I cruised down to Drift Speed in Los Alamitos one evening. The positive camber in the rear and generally totally fubar'd alignment on the rally car was getting somewhat annoying to deal with (crooked steering wheel, uneven tire wear on the street) so I got my butt down there to get it straightnened out.

While there, we had to install the camber bolts in the rear to get the zero or slightly negative rear camber that I wanted. We got the car onto the alignment rack / lift and pulled off the stock 6 spokes and put the rally wheels and tires on front first.

Once all the gravel wheels were on, the reflectors for the laser alignment could be attached. These things kick so much ass.

The machine is very sensitive, it measures down to the tenth of a degree for everything like toe, camber, etc. Even bumping the car while tightening bolts down could throw everything out of whack. The wife called me wondering why it was taking a couple of hours to do an alignment when Pepboys will do one in 30 minutes. I had to try to explain how getting your car to track straight and actually having even toe and camber settings is the difference between Pepboys and doing it right. So for those of you wondering, I am basically running zero camber and zero toe in the rear, and about -1.5 camber in the front with zero toe. My goal is to make the car track as neutral as possible for now. It is really nice to have a steering wheel that actually sits in the center when going straight down the highway too. We will see how long that lasts though... ;-)

A big thanks goes out to my friend Phi who set this all up. I know i'm like the black sheep bringing a rallied out Impreza into a drift shop full of huge turbo swapped S14's and S15's but as promised I left very little dirt on the floor! (I even pressure washed the underside of the RS before taking it down there) LOL. I'd also like to thank Quoc for sticking around all night making sure that everything got dialed in perfectly. These guys are the alignment pros!

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There were several suggestions that the RS would look better with the grill mesh pastidipped, and the metal behind the bumper painted black. I thought so too. Even though it will probably eventually get jacked up its nice to know it looks good now :)

The mesh has about 6 coats of plastidip sprayed on.



Thanks for all the feedback guys!

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fourth of July weekend was cool, hope you had a great one too. While normal folks catch up on yard work, I had a chance to focus on a few smaller projects on the rally car that I have been putting off for quite some time. There are still a thousand "micro-projects" that need to be finished, but at least now its 1000 minus 3. In between hanging out at the pool and drinking lots of American beer, this is what i got done.

Hood pins - hell yeah. No race car is complete without hood pins. I even learned how to use a pop-rivet gun. That thing may be used again in the near future. Super handy device that guy. The front grill, headlights, and corners have to be pulled out for proper fitment of the pins. I saw that a guy on RS25 pulled the rubber hood stops out and used the holes for the pins. This was a VERY clever idea, i did the same. Once fitted, the studs of the hood pins needed to be trimmed down so that the headlights could fit back in.

Super cool trick is to cut the OEM bumers down, and then drill out the center so that they fit over the hood pin studs. This provides a cushy platform for the hood to rest on.

There is something strangely satisfying about drilling [more] holes in your rally car. Its nerve racking a bit because you have to get it right the first time.

This is before i got the headlights back in.

The pop rivet gun is pretty easy to use, but with this style of hoodpin, you have to bend the "tracks" back so that the head of the gun can fit in to do the last rivet. Once everything is in place, some chanel-locks are good to bend everything back into place.

I picked up some stock endlinks from a guy local for like $40. PGT rules say that stock endlinks must be retained, but you can use any aftermarket bar you want. I sold the endlinks that were on there and put the stockers back on with my RalliTEK rear swaybar. BORING i know, but rules are rules...

Finally, i ordered up some "blank" black vinyl with my last batch of DI goods from redline rally. The purpose of this was to make my own 100% opaque windshield banner. I've been paying very close attention to some of the national level rally cars (Ken Block's comes to mind) and I saw how ridiculously large their front windshield banners are to block sunlight. Mine is pretty modest as it only comes down 10" from the top of the windshield, but its still covers quite a bit of the window. Next time ill be sure to get the vinyl masked... i had to do it myself. woops! It turned out WAY better than i expected. This started as an over sized rectangle of black vinyl. I affixed it to the window (using the water trick) and just cut it down to size. Only a couple of bubbles here and there which i was able to get out OK. I think a windshield banner is going to look fricking epic on top of this.

Lots and lots of small projects in the works. Keep coming back to check on the PRRS... I may be down on cash, but ill keep working on this car as much as possible! ;-)

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Money is tight, but there's lots to be done on the car. I figured i'd try to knock down the extremely long list of odds and ends stuff that needs to be done while I save up for my seats. First on the list was to (re)install my wiring for the Soltek Fuego lights. Since i had already done this on the other shell, and removed everything i had a pretty good idea of how everything was going to come together. Personally, i hate wiring as electricty and I don't really get along to well, but i've learned quite a bit from doing this the second time around. I have a better understanding of how relays work in conjunction with the ass-backwards reverse grounds on Subarus. Part of the wiring will have to be redone again when the battery is relocated to the trunk, but its only a small section of the entire system.

When you don't have a garage, you have to make do with what you got. Dining room table = workbench.

Had to figure out a decent place to mount the hot 12v constant fuses. The OEM horn mount seemed fine as the lines had space so go around the existing battery, and still could be connected to on both sides.

These are he hot leads (currently disconnected from the battery) waiting to be plugged into the relays once the relay holder is in a good location. The white wires will be the signal wires back from the toggles inside to activate the relays.

Soltek's weather proof connectors are super easy to assemble.

Back inside the car, i decided to splice into the high-beams wire under the steering column. This is because per NASA rules:
It must be possible to turn off all high-beam headlights and auxiliary lights with a single switch, which must leave the low-beam headlights functioning.
The correct wire to splice into is yellow with a thin blue stripe. It terminates in the connector on the driver's side of the steering column.

This green wire then runs down behind the center console where it is split into 3 wires that will activate 3 relays.

Wiring back to the front of the car from the relays to the actual HID's is cleaned up.

Connectors will hangout in front of the grill for easy connect / disconnect from the lights

Relays hooked up. There will be one relay controlling 2 lights, for a total of 3 relays.

I actually hot glued the wires in place on the plastic holder that guides the disconnects onto the relay prongs. This should keep them from rattling out and disconnecting. The plastic holders (not pictured here, but on the underside of the relay block) is ziptied in place for extra strength.

The block is mounted way back on the firewall, and behind one of the shock towers to hopefully keep it dry and relatively cool.

No access to fancy metal for me, so i rigged up a Plexiglass panel switch. Easy for me to work on with basic hand tools, and a dremel.

I actually messed the first one up and made a second version, this one pictured here. Lots of fitting, cutting and trimming but it came out pretty nice. It has a sturdy feel because it was pretty thick plastic. I painted the backside of the panel black so it won't get scratched from either the driver or co-driver.

Wired up the first 3 toggles, each one controls a pair of lights. Shrink wrapped everything all nice. The other two toggles will be used for something else, possibly custom interior lighting and a co-driver map light.

Panel screwed into position, i simply used some longer screws and nylon spacers on the OEM holes behind the dash to get it flush with the cool fake CF bezel.

Plenty of space left below these five toggles for an electrical cutoff, horn, and whatever else might need to be mounted. Lights work great so far, i can't wait to get out on some dirt roads at night to try them out. I have the entire wiring diagram that I went off still so if anyone is interested in that i can scan it and make it available. All the fuses, fuse holder, relay block, and relays were purchased at

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
More odds and ends getting done on the car. Nothing too exciting but since I like to take pictures of everything, here it goes!

Autometer Pro Shiftlight. Yeah they are a bit ricer, but i've always been a fan of shift lights. Not having to keep a close eye on the tach has always been a big plus whether it be racing in autocross, rallycross, or eventually on stage where taking your eyes off the road for a second is sketchy. This guy will just give me a quick heads up before i bounce off the rev-limiter. I still need to get the right RPM pill, as this one is from another car and is way past the redline of the RS. So this was the install.

Extend the wires to reach the ECU, a good ground, and a power source.

Drill holes on the top of the steering column cover to mount the light and allow the wires to pass through.


Tap into the RPM signal wire off the ECU.

Good spot for a ground (behind where the stereo usually is)

There's lots of potential power sources to use, i took the easy route and used an add a fuse on the radio spot (since i don't have a radio). :-(


As you can see, the position of the shift light does not block my view of water temp, or the tach... only partially on the lower end of the speedometer.

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God that is awesome. What a fun project! I bet that thing is a blast to drive off-road. Really enjoyed reading through this.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before you read this. Please let me tell you that no matter how easy you think putting in racing seats is going to be, it's not going to be easy. Nothing about these seats was easy to do, from acquiring the right hardware, to getting everything aligned and installed. If you want to rally though, you gotta have em so just try to smile when everything goes annoyingly wrong over and over again.

I picked up these seats from a Cobra distributor in Southern California. The labels on the side of the seats might throw you off a bit. The Cobra Imola S was replaced with the Imola Pro, so the sticker says one thing, but the embroidery on the seat says another.

They are actually very light, and probably the most affordable Kevlar seat out there. Spent a pretty penny on the seats and the sexy aluminum side brackets (unfortunately they do not export the cheaper steel side brackets out the UK) and set out to source the remaining hardware. I found a guy in San Diego that had a passenger side sparco seat bracket, swooped on that quick... used saves a lot of money. The driver's side one on the other hand was much harder to acquire. Sparco ran out right as geekmonster was going to hookabrothaup and they didnt arrive the following week with their next shipment. I poked around for a while on the big Subaru forums, but was getting bought out from underneath, and dealing with people who didn't have Paypal accounts, etc. Not rad. So i bought one from a store i won't name at this time because I am currently working on getting a refund from them.

So when you buy a Sparco DRIVER side seat base for a 01 RS / 02 WRX this is what they send you.

Are you [email protected]$%ing kidding me? A Wedge Engineering base, for a Buick Skyhawk / Chevy Cavalier... and its a passenger side? Seriously retarded. I didn't get a Wedge unit because they decided to not return my emails about getting a quote for one. Their loss. Needless to say i was furious because this shop's distributor's shipping sucked too (i couldn't change the delivery options so FedEx would only let me pick it up at the damn warehouse of theirs). geekmonster came though in a pinch again and was able to pull off getting one from me super last minute. I met up with him, and jetted over to Jackson Rally that same night. Seriously, thanks so much Chris you rock!

Rolled up to JR, car smoking like crazy... ripped another CV boot somehow that's another fix for another day. After the usual bribing of Kyle with pizza of his choice and multiple containers of Dr. Pepper we got to work. Pulled the old Impreza L seat out. It found its way to the dumpster later that night.... finally!

If its one thing Kyle hates, it's installing seats and I now know why. Nothing matches up. The seat manufacturer makes side mounts for their seats that don't really fit (we turned one set of them around backwards) then the bottoms of the side rails don't match up with the Sparco seat bases, and then these don't really line up with the OEM holes in the car all that well. So, how do you fix a problem like this? We'll you have to have to have a guy that knows how to make anything work with metal... and a lot of patience.

One of the many test fittings of the smaller driver side Imola. We got the distance for my short ass legs pretty good, i can still push the clutch to the floor, that's kind of important.

The Imola GT is the wider version of the Imola and is the co-driver seat. This thing BARELY fits in an RS. Its probably the biggest seat that will fit in a caged GC

Clamping things down and marking holes that need to be drilled to attach the side rails. (It would be too easy to make them just match...WTF!)

The Sparco bases are pretty weaksauce, they need additional gusseting to make em strong!

So we ended up finishing around 3am, but that is how most of my install projects work out. The seat feels GREAT i must say. I took the liberty of driving Ortega Highway on the way home and was amazed at how much more connected i felt to the car (all that padding on the stock seats is like a dead zone for feeling what the car is doing under your ass). Even though the Imolas have very low sidewalls, the still hold me in place very well, and the shoulder support is awesome. To all the haters that were claiming the harness bar was way too high, it actually worked out perfect, just as we knew it would. Here's the finished install.

Thanks goes out to Kyle at Jackson Rally again for the millionth time that he has gone above and beyond for the project RS. It would not be where it is today without his tireless efforts. Now i can finally get on to a bunch of other smaller projects now that i know exactly where the seats are going to be staying. Sparco 6pt harnesses are not in yet because i need some additional hardware to adapt them to the harness bar. Ill be running my Schroth Profi 2's in the meantime. More updates to come...

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Let me start by saying what an awesome build on such a tight budget. It must have been a blast hanging out at the event and answering questions.

I'm going to try my hand at RallyX for the first time when I get home from this deployment...any suggestions? The club that is putting on the race has a class for me, street tire awd.

Also sorry to hear about your run-in with wedge...I had the unfortunate pleasure of them making my brackets for my old tC...those suckers didn't work for piss. The mounting holes were dead on but they used round stock bar where the sliders mounted. I promise to not give them any business ever again.
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