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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well i finally got dirty and did some work.

I replaced my brake pads with Axxis Metal Masters, put in SS brake lines, flushed with AEM super blue, and painted the calipers while I was in there.

so...here's the questions. on the first one I did I removed the brake bracket. I put it on really really tight, but the ends of the bolts had white crusty stuff on them...was this locktite? I didn't use any when I put it back together (didn't have any on hand), but want to know if its necessary. It wouldn't be a very big deal to take the wheel off, remove two bolts and reinstall them with locktite if I need to. So do I need to?

also I did not bleed the system in order (didn't read about that part on scoobymods until AFTER the car was back on the ground). I did rear passanger, rear driver, front driver, front passanger. Is this ok or do I need to do it again in the right order? I was puling blue fluid from all 4 wheels.

I used a mightyvac brake bleeding kit. no matter how much fluid I pulled it looked like there were still bubbles coming from somewhere. I don't think it was the brakes because once I got to the blue fluid I knew that I pulled it all the way from the cylinder and it must be fine. brake feel, however is a little odd. It feels lighter, but I think I have more pedal travel than I did before. I also think its inconsistent: when I hit the brakes hard they feel different than when I press it slowly. More air in the line?

I just realized that I did not pump the brakes at all before I started bleeding...I don't know if that matters, but after bleeding and driving around the block, I stopped, pumped the brakes hard a few times, and pedal feel got a little firmer, and the pedal didn't travel as much...still more than it ues to though. should I have started with this? and THEN used the mightyvac?
 

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You should be fine with no locktite on the bolts.

I would try rebleeding the brakes again. I'm not sure how the mightyvac works but are you sure you kept the mastercylinder full enough to avoid sucking more air in through it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I THINK so, but its really hard to tell. The filter at the top makes it really hard to see how much fluid is in there. I refilled every time I pulled 2-3 oz of fluid from the bleeder screw. I think I ended up using about 1/3 of the AEM container. I'm going to bleed the brakes again today the old fasioned way...put it up on jackstands and have someone get in and pump the brakes. Shouldn't take too long this time since I did most of the work yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
never mind. I put about 5-6 miles on the new brakes today driving around town and everything worked itself out. brake feels much better and it doesn't travel as far anymore. I'll just top off the resevoir again and call the operation a success.
 

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How you like the Metal Masters? I've had a set sitting in the garage for over a year, wasn't sure if I wanted to mount them or not. Are you still running on stock rotors?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when I first put them on the brakes felt like they were slipping a lot. As I drove around more that feeling is going away. I was driving around town today so they may not have seated/wiped off finger prints yet but when I pulled into the garage they were feeling pretty good. I haven't done any high speed stops or activated ABS, but the last few miles were very consistent. I have to get on the freeway tomorrow so I'll have a good road test tomorrow. I can tell you that they already feel better than stock.

on a side note I just read a post saying you should grease the backs of the pads. I didn't do this. I don't know how important this is but everything seems to work ok and no noise whatsoever.

I had to reuse the backing plates from the old rotors and they didn't look like there was grease on them. If there was it disintegrated a LONG time ago. Just looked like a bunch of road grime mixed with brake dust.

If greasing them is important someone let me know..I'm not really looking forward to taking the brakes apart again if I don't have to.
 

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REALLY REALLY Tight may be more than you really want on your brakes. That is a shear strength type component. You really only need enough torque to make sure that nothin comes loose. Over torqueing those components can lead to brake failure. Be careful and use factory torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well I figure "as tight as I can get it with a 3/8" ratchet" is probably not TOO tight...especially cosidering the angle I was working at.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok so after a day of driving here's what I think of the Metal Masters.

They're a bit brabbier than the OEM pads.

The strangest thing is that I can apply more brake pressure without locking up and kicking ABS on. Stops that used to lock up my brakes are now NOT, but stopping power is actually better than before. In fact I slammed on the brakes on the freeway going about 80 and I got thrown forward against the seatbelt so hard it left a welt across my chest...It wasn't a 100% slam, but I know if I had OE pads I would have locked up....but I didn't. The only odd thing I've noticed so far is sometimes the first time brake after starting the car the brakes seem to be a little less effective (warm-up?). For example, in a 30-0 easy stop, the fist 1.5 seconds I feel like the brakes are slipping, then suddenly they grab and its pretty consistent after that. Maybe they haven't completely broken in yet...only got about 80-90 miles on them.

Put em on...you won't be disappointed.
 

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You're either feeling warm-up or buildup of rust/crap on the rotors, I've had both.

At autox, I can tell a huge difference if I warm up the brakes pre-run or if I don't in the feel of my ultimates. Metal masters would probably be a great choice for pads, even for autox. I don't think the extra wear/dust of the ultimates is absolutely necessary for stopping power required for autox.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
well the primary reason I got them was less dust. one warm-up or buildup-removing stop doesn't really bother me (its actually getting better the more I drive...maybe in a few days I won't have to do it anymore) and since I don't do repeated 120-0 stops Ultimates aren't really necessary for me.

its good to finally get under the car and make some mods...next stop - new struts.

since noone's commented on it I guess my question about greasing the backs of the pads isn't that important?
 

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Yes you should lube the back of the plates- unless they are new enough that they already have plenty of grease on them- this prevents squealing.

You should also lube the guides as well (where the brake tabs travel back and forth).

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok...if its jus a noise thing then I'm not going to worry about it. they had about 82K miles with the old pads, but I've have no brake noise of any kind. I guess I'll wait and see. If they start squealing I'll take them off a lube them, but if they're quiet I don't worry about it.
 
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