ClubWRX Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, thanks for looking. :)

Car is a 2011 WRX Stage 2 AP map. 91,92 oct. with AEM intake & hi flow cat. Turbo XS 50/50 bov. (Go ahead && troll )
Mods. Perrin Cat back, Down pipe and AEM intake.

Reason for log is I noticed in cyc. 4 the knock is abnormally high. I have looked around and took notice to people saying that, that cylinder is normally higher than the rest but this is just a bit higher than I'd like. Another thing. Whenever i'm WOT it feels like it is pulling, but sputtering very slightly from time to time during the pull. Any thoughts?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ArdvMx3zNbKDdGVvSE9LdUVrQmJjaTJSemFjT2N3dEE&output=html <-- this is the correct log.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,751 Posts
Car is a 2011 WRX Stage 2 AP map. 91,92 oct. with AEM intake & hi flow cat. Turbo XS 50/50 bov. (Go ahead && troll )
<snip>
Any thoughts?
So you already know what the problem is based on your post. So do what you know you should and see if the problem disappears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
its not the bov. I switch the stock one back on and did a pull and the log is almost the same but with less knock. doesn't explain the small delays.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,697 Posts
So you already know what the problem is based on your post. So do what you know you should and see if the problem disappears.
Actually, the post included a log. Did you look at it? So tell us, what is wrong in the log? A BOV has zero bearing on a WOT pull as long as it isn't leaking. It causes rich conditions between shifts, which has nothing to do with knock. Given I'm 99% Cobb has an AEM map for this car, one would assume they are running that, so no issue there either.

Please put some more consideration into what you post in the tech. sections.

First off, thanks for looking. :)

Car is a 2011 WRX Stage 2 AP map. 91,92 oct. with AEM intake & hi flow cat. Turbo XS 50/50 bov. (Go ahead && troll )
Mods. Perrin Cat back, Down pipe and AEM intake.

Reason for log is I noticed in cyc. 4 the knock is abnormally high. I have looked around and took notice to people saying that, that cylinder is normally higher than the rest but this is just a bit higher than I'd like. Another thing. Whenever i'm WOT it feels like it is pulling, but sputtering very slightly from time to time during the pull. Any thoughts?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ArdvMx3zNbKDdGVvSE9LdUVrQmJjaTJSemFjT2N3dEE&output=html <-- this is the correct log.
There is nothing wrong with that pull. The knock counter you are looking doesn't show when knock occurred, but since it didn't increment the entire pull, no knock events occurred during that pull. It could have accumulated that during a low load situation, or when heat soaked, etc. etc. If it isn't high load knock it is much less of a problem, which I'm not seeing in your WOT pull. You should be looking at the timing corrections. You have .35 degree pulled in one small section. Because it is learned knock correction, that means you had some minor knock through that load vs. RPM range in the past, but have been through more recently sucessfully (it pulls more than .35, the only way you see that is when it is in the process of adding it back, or unlearning it). That is of no concern IMO. It looks to me like it pulls hard all the way through until boost starts to taper at high RPM (as it should).

As for the roughness, it looks like you have marginal boost error or oddness right above 4000 RPM, which is reflected in the load going up and down a little. That might be what you are feeling. Also it could be with how the timing is laid out. It should feel smoother than stock if it is a good tune, but it is making solid power and looks very safe to me.


EDIT: This is completely irrelevant, but I just have one knock sensor I'm pretty sure - do the new cars really have 4?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Mycologist, Thank you for the post && clarifying what I thought about the BOV issue. I didn't think it was either but it's simple to swap and give it a try. I'm not sure where the knock originates at except whenever I log it just appears at whatever number and doesn't fluceuate. As far as timing corrections, i've never dipped into information on that certain aspect. I'm not sure what the .35 degree bit is or understand it but i'll do some research on it. Small question thought, currently I run the COBB map Stage 2 with AEM intake on 91,92 OCT. There is a map there that runs 93 oct. I only put Sheetz 93 oct. Any possibilty that If I flash it with the 93 map it would improve the small knock i'm getting? The boost error, do you believe i'll be stuck with that until i have it protuned? As far as the irrelevant question, yes. I can monitor each cyclinder to look for knock which i've read cylinder 4 is normally always higher than the other 3. Again, I appreciate the post and giving me some peace of mind. I'm 20, can't really afford to fix the car since I no longer have a warranty :D
-SPC Rock
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,697 Posts
Mycologist, Thank you for the post && clarifying what I thought about the BOV issue. I didn't think it was either but it's simple to swap and give it a try. I'm not sure where the knock originates at except whenever I log it just appears at whatever number and doesn't fluceuate. As far as timing corrections, i've never dipped into information on that certain aspect. I'm not sure what the .35 degree bit is or understand it but i'll do some research on it. Small question thought, currently I run the COBB map Stage 2 with AEM intake on 91,92 OCT. There is a map there that runs 93 oct. I only put Sheetz 93 oct. Any possibilty that If I flash it with the 93 map it would improve the small knock i'm getting? The boost error, do you believe i'll be stuck with that until i have it protuned? As far as the irrelevant question, yes. I can monitor each cyclinder to look for knock which i've read cylinder 4 is normally always higher than the other 3. Again, I appreciate the post and giving me some peace of mind. I'm 20, can't really afford to fix the car since I no longer have a warranty :D
-SPC Rock
It is all explained here: RomRaider • View topic - Subaru's knock control strategy explained

Cliff notes, look at timing corrections and forget about knock sensors. You aren't in a range to worry about any individual cylinders IMO. Of course this is just free advise, and you should make your own decision. As far as I recall, those reports of certain cylinders failing were all old school stuff on experimental aggressive setups with PTFB and poor engine management or when pushing a large turbo or something. Having a piston melt down or a ring bust is not a normal outcome of running a stage II map that is not showing significant timing corrections in WOT logs. YMMV but I would quit logging those counters and quit worrying about individual cylinders. Instead focus on learning how to interpret the important stuff, and keep an eye on it over time regularly, like changing your oil.

This thread refers to Romraider, but you can look at the same stuff with Cobb if you figure out what they call everything. That info is also available if you google it. Worry about A/F learning and knock learning getting out of line, and watch the DAM (should stay at 1). Occasionally log to look for dynamic knock corrections.

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning-electronic-engine-management/134322905-datalogging-romraider.html

Flashing to a higher octane will not decrease knock. It will potentially increase it, and potentially get rid of the roughness you are experiencing as it will have a better timing curve to take advantage of the higher octane. I would not do it unless you can fill up with 93 every time, and you confirm with logs that the quality of your 93 is suitable.

If you learn enough about tuning yourself you can maybe smooth it out yourself, but it would be pretty advanced stuff messing with your boost control and timing. Or you could look for an E-tune that is compatible or do a protune. I'd just live with the fact that a boosted car has some idiosyncrasies in how power is delivered. The car looks like it is pulling pretty hard overall.
 

·
Master Baiter
Joined
·
22,114 Posts
angelfox said:
Mycologist, Thank you for the post && clarifying what I thought about the BOV issue. I didn't think it was either but it's simple to swap and give it a try. I'm not sure where the knock originates at except whenever I log it just appears at whatever number and doesn't fluceuate. As far as timing corrections, i've never dipped into information on that certain aspect. I'm not sure what the .35 degree bit is or understand it but i'll do some research on it. Small question thought, currently I run the COBB map Stage 2 with AEM intake on 91,92 OCT. There is a map there that runs 93 oct. I only put Sheetz 93 oct. Any possibilty that If I flash it with the 93 map it would improve the small knock i'm getting? The boost error, do you believe i'll be stuck with that until i have it protuned? As far as the irrelevant question, yes. I can monitor each cyclinder to look for knock which i've read cylinder 4 is normally always higher than the other 3. Again, I appreciate the post and giving me some peace of mind. I'm 20, can't really afford to fix the car since I no longer have a warranty :D
-SPC Rock
The -.35° of FLKC is likely the ECU working its way back up to the target timing of the map. Often times, the FLKC is set to pull 1.4° of timing if it's repetitive (.35*4=1.4), and the ECU will slowly start incrementing timing back into the map. It could've been a bad tank of gas that caused -1.4° to be pulled as a preventative measure, and now that you're on different gas, it's slowly returning itself.

Octane acts as a knock buffer. You will typically see less knock running 93 on a 91 map than 93 on a 93 map (if it were to present itself).

mycologist said:
If you learn enough about tuning yourself you can maybe smooth it out yourself, but it would be pretty advanced stuff messing with your boost control and timing. Or you could look for an E-tune that is compatible or do a protune. I'd just live with the fact that a boosted car has some idiosyncrasies in how power is delivered. The car looks like it is pulling pretty hard overall.
This.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,697 Posts
I'm just going to start randomly posting this or add it to my sig.

The single biggest threat to your motor is not checking your oil much more often than you think you should.

Especially with a log like that.
 

·
Master Baiter
Joined
·
22,114 Posts
mycologist said:
I'm just going to start randomly posting this or add it to my sig.

The single biggest threat to your motor is not checking your oil much more often than you think you should.

Especially with a log like that.
:rotfl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I appreciate both of your posts, but Mycologist, may I ask what you ment by "Especially with a log like that." As stated before, all of this is pretty new to me and i'm trying to get a good grasp on it all. You said the log looked fine. haha, that statement caught me off gaurd. You said that as a joke to people posting logs, correct? lol.....(i hope ! :D )
 

·
Master Baiter
Joined
·
22,114 Posts
angelfox said:
I appreciate both of your posts, but Mycologist, may I ask what you ment by "Especially with a log like that." As stated before, all of this is pretty new to me and i'm trying to get a good grasp on it all. You said the log looked fine. haha, that statement caught me off gaurd. You said that as a joke to people posting logs, correct? lol.....(i hope ! :D )
You're running a base map. Your log is pretty damn clean. It's a joke on someone worrying about something they shouldn't...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I would rather be made fun of than not ask and never know. :D Just helps me for future issues and whatnot. Again, thanks everybody for the posts.....and ej257... that avatar makes me laugh everytime. lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,697 Posts
That is a fine quality, and yes, +1 to EJ

The oil part is for real though. Seriously, keep checking it. At least every 1K. I'm not joking about that. It isn't blinker fluid, and it can disappear in a Subaru FI motor randomly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Oh, I never knew that ha. I'll keep that in mind every week or so check it. So they only have a knack for disappearing? Nothing else right? ha.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top