Cupholder LEDs

I've received a few requests on how to install my cupholder LEDs, so I figured I'd make a quick how-to guide. I didn't take installation pictures of this car, as I did it in my previous car. So if you notice pictures of another model, that's why. This guide also assumes you know how to get accessory power from your vehicle. Anyway, let's begin.

First, go and get yourself some cupholder LEDs. I used a company called AccentGlowLED, and they're by far my favorite thus far. They don't make a kit for the WRX, so you'll have to order the custom kit ones, and pick the 3" diameter option. They'll look like this when they arrive:




Next, I strongly suggest using some heavy duty double sided tape by 3M on the bottom of each disc. They won't budge, I promise. I like to stick the tape onto the wire so it's nice and flat, and there's no added tension from movement.




Next, you'll have to take apart your center console and get the cup holders out. If you don't know how to do this, then check out any of the guides on YouTube. Next, drill small holes in the bottom of each cup holder. I know, it sucks, but it must be done. Use a 3/16" drill bit for this part. Try to make your holes in such a way that the wires have the most unobstructed path towards the front of the car. When done, it'll look like this



Next we're going to install them. First, give your cup holders a good cleaning if dirty. Then thread the wires through the holes, and get the placement just right so there's as little tension on the wire as possible. Once you find the sweet spot, hit your cup holder with some alcohol to prep the surface one final time, peel the backing off, then stick the LEDs down. Make sure you're pulling the wire through as you lower it into place to avoid any slack getting trapped underneath the LED.




For ease of installation, you'll want to tie up any excess wire underneath the cup holder and secure it with tape (I used electrical). Then we're going to combine the wires to make the run to the front easier. Obviously couple the two positives together, then the two negatives. This next part is personal preference. Soldering with some heat shrink is a good idea, but it can be a pain if you ever need to take the console out. For that, I use these cool little quick connect boxes. They're much more secure than a normal quick disconnect, and require no skill to use other than pulling a lever and stripping a wire.



Next you'll want a piece of 16-gauge wire. We're going to use that to run to the front to minimize the mess. Just stick the positive and negative into their respective boxes. Once those are in, secure them however you see fit. I used a small cable tie and some tape to tuck them away.




Finally we're going to run the wire up to the front of the car. If I remember correctly, I zip tied it to a wire loom that was already running to the front. Just give yourself enough slack that you can lift up the console to unplug from the disconnects in the future. Nobody will see it, so who cares. Now, once you get to the front of the car, it's completely up to you how you want to finish the installation. I have mine running to a basic toggle switch that I mounted in the blank switch next to the TC off button. After you're satisfied, put your trim back together.

Once finished, it'll look like this





Where to buy:

Cup holder LEDs: AccentGlowLED – Custom LED Cup Holder Lights Install Kit
Quick disconnect boxes: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ever-lock-quick-connect-terminal-blocks/1372/
16 gauge wire: https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-Ga...501075838&sr=8-3&keywords=16+gauge+power+wire
Toggle switch: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/toggle-switches/mini-onoff-toggle-switch-wired/1356/3109/
Add a fuse: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/mini-automotive-fuse/mini-fuse-circuit-tap/545/1739/