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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the Weapon R washer fluid/coolant overflow tank for my 03 wrx and though it fits great and looks good I have a question about the coolant overflow portion and if it will function properly. On the stock overflow the hose goes to the bottom of the tank and fills/pulls from there which makes sense. I understand how the system works with cooling and heating and the pressures and all that so that doesn't need discussed. My question is on the weapon R unit the nipple for the coolant line is at the top of the tank and has no connection to the bottom of the tank. Will this still work properly if not filled completely to the top which obviously it can't be? I don't want to reroute everything just to find out it doesn't function properly. Im sure it works as a lot of guys are using them but can someone explain how?

Also please keep your opinions on the product to yourself, this thread has no purpose other than answering my question. Thanks in advance
 

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I am interested in the answer also. How does aspiration happen?

What does the maker have to say?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They don't really have any info that i can find online. The product comes with no literature, and a foot and a half piece of hose thats the wrong size for the nipple and not long enough and 4 clamps, thats it. The bottom and top of tank is connected with an external piece of hose and some fittings but I don't think that should make a difference. For what it is the product looks awesome and is a good replacement for my beat up stock washer tank but I don't understand how the other half can be functional
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is also a threaded cap on the bottom that seems like a drain plug for what that info is worth
 

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Garrett, I got your PM.

When I got my tank, there was no drainage on the bottom... only a nipple at the top, and like all Weapon*R products, the included hoses, attachments, etc., are the wrong sizes... not a major issue.
Get a good quality high-temp silicone hose 1/4"ID that matches your color scheme, and some ACE stainless hose clamps, and you are golden.

The tank works differently from the stock one in a few ways.

It is a catch tank only, and there is no return. The idea is that it catches boiled-off vapor and prevents pressure overages in the radiator. This is hardly a concern, since the hoses will expand more than needed to prevent such an issue (in a properly operating cooling system, if you have a blockage, this is another story).

The feed line from the radiator to the tank is the only one that you need to attach, it does indeed attach to the remarkably short and UNTHREADED nipple.

It would have made sense for the manufacturer to have given us a bit more nipple or to have threaded it for an Aeroquip fastloc... but mine does work perfectly as it is.

There is something you will have to do to it that you might not like. I drilled a relief hole in the upper corner of mine with a 1/64" pin-drill bit. This allows the pressure to have somewhere to go rather than blowing off the hose. You may find that this is an issue for you as well.

Otherwise, installation is pretty straight forward. take out the stock tanks, install the washer pump in the new tank, replace the coolant feed line, and done. Polish her up and go.

Dependent on how you have your electrical setup (big stereo, NOS controller, outboard ECU power lines, etc), there should be little to no re-installation of anything else. I had to move my primary chassis ground plate a few inches to make a clean area for my hybrid tank...

Just FYI, this tank will do little to nothing other than look cool and rid you of cheapness (plastic).
The only Weapon*R tank I have that actually improved performance is the power steering reserve tank.
Because it is completely sealed, my power steering is faster reacting, and never howls at lock end. The stock tank had pressure relief, and when air got in the fluid, it would howl.... no longer an issue, and very worth doing with a power steering pulley (additional strain is a bad thing on an alloy pulley). All of the tanks together DO act as a heatsink, and are a worthwhile investment. They stay looking like new for as long as they are cared for, and cleaning is very easy, since removal is so simple.

When the installation is complete, there should be no fluid in the tank. There is no need to fill it. Fill the header tank to it's max line and call it a day.

If there's any other concern, or if this doesn't answer the questions, let me know and I will take another wack at it.

After re-reading my answer and the posts below... I wonder, is this the same tank? Do you have any pics? nNything would help... a model number? I just want tot make sure I am right with my info here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is the same tank (i have seen your pictures) But they have redesigned it slightly (drain plug and the nipple is longer now). That makes more sense that it is purely an overflow not a place for the radiator to pull from. Install was a breeze and it works flawlessly as a washer fluid tank. I just didn't want to hook everything up on the coolant portion until i knew it would work properly. Thanks for your help. Time to get some hose and get it working.

Oh and another point for any future reference, the nipple on the weapon r tank does not use the same size hose as the radiator so at some point in the system a reducing nipple will be required. It is not a substantial drop in size but enough that I don't want to stretch the hose that much.
 

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So what happens when the system cools - it just sucks in air?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It would appear so. I will say though that my stock overflow tank never changes level a noticeable amount whether hot or cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im considering doing the unthinkable and drilling into a brand new part. I will be drilling a pin hole for the air to escape as my washer fluid was coming out of the nozzles after a 20 mile drive. What Im considering is also drilling a hole in the top of the coolant portion for the hose to go down in so it can work just like the stock unit. I would ensure its a very tight fit so there was no leak other than a tiny bit of air (would take the place of a pinhole on that side). I would also run a short piece of hose to the nipple that Tee'd into the main line so there was no leak without having to have a shop cut and weld up that nipple which is way more project than necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm....that could work. If it is a standard pipe thread that would be easy to do, otherwise it won't work without drilling and tapping
 

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I can't imagine a way to get this to work correctly without modifying it. It'd be very interesting to see how it would work unmodified (on someone else's car...).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think Kevin's solution will work. That will allow for the radiator to pull from the bottom of the tank (which still sits above where the stock tank does) for refilling and push the coolant back into either the top or bottom (shouldn't matter much) when hot. I pulled out the plug and its hard to tell if its a standard pipe thread. I will be going to work in the next hour anyways so I plan on going a bit early and toying around with some fittings as I need hose anyways (I work at a hardware store)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I can't imagine a way to get this to work correctly without modifying it. It'd be very interesting to see how it would work unmodified (on someone else's car...).
Impreza 2.0 has been using it a while without having a refilling ability and seems it has worked out okay. I just don't trust it enough to do that so I will either be finding a way to modify to work as the stock unit does or leave that half empty for when i run an intercooler sprayer something else in the future
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found my personal solution. The bottom plug is 1/4fpt. What I did was remove the plug and get a 1/4"mpt to 3/8"HB elbow and thread it in there with some thread tape. I checked for leaks with water and when I felt comfortable with it holding up I moved on. From there I ran a short piece of hose up to the top nipple. That nipple also has a short piece of hose on it. Those two then connected to 1 side and the bottom of a 3/8" HB Tee. I then ran the stock hose that goes down in the stock overflow tank to that same spot and connected it into the third side of the tee. This will allow for the coolant to push into the top of the new tank when hot and pull from the bottom of the tank when it cools down. I obviously used hose clamps on all of these fittings and made sure it was all tight. Then to insure the pressure doesn't build I drilled a 1/16" hole in the top corner of each side of the tank. Being aluminum it gets hot quick and without those there is nowhere for that air to escape. Took it for a quick drive to get up to operating temp and all worked just as it should.
 

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That sounds like a much better idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Really put it to the test last night. Went and hung out with some friends and cruised around for over 90 minutes without a single issue. No leaks out of the exhaust holes, no temperature spikes at all. I may post a couple pics for future reference but for now Im off to 3m kit my headlights (really scary on an expensive retrofit) and put on some lamin-x
 

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so you have the original connection, and then you added a connection to the drain hole? Sounds like a much better idea than putting holes in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
correct. so it connects to both the top and bottom of the new tank and then Tees into the original line connecting to the radiator
 
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