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Hey guys. I'm thinking about buying a new WRX, but I just had some questions for current owners about their experiences.

A little backstory, I've had a few cars over the years. LS1 Camaro, 95 Integra LS (loved that car), and currently I have a 2000 Camry V6 with 65k on it and a 2004 350z with 85k miles. I'm tired of maintaining two cars and I have a couple kids now (1 and 3) so I still need two car seats. I bought my wife a new CX-5 and while it's a nice car, it's shown me that I absolutely do not want an SUV. At first I considered a G37 Sedan to sort of combine my two cars in to one, but as much as I enjoy sliding around, I think I want AWD this time around. My wife likes to take trips to the snow with the kids and I'm tired of using chains.

So my questions are:
What sort of a power difference will I notice between my Z and the WRX? The numbers from the factory are similar (268 vs 287), but I feel like the VQ has fantastic punch in all ranges. (I have a couple bolt ons and a tune)
I keep reading about this rev hang thing. I feel like that's going to drive me nuts. The only way to get rid of that will void the warranty? Does the STi have the same issue?
Are good aftermarket options for the FA20 becoming more available like they are for the EJ25? I don't give a **** about gas mileage, but I do live in California. Can you easily make 30-40 more HP without much trouble?

Hopefully there are some former Z guys around.

Thanks guys
 

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You can't make power with out tuning. So if you are interested in warranty you can write that off comoletely.

A 268hp turbocharged 4cyl will not have the punch from a roll like a more powerful naturally aspirated v6. They are not sports cars, they are sporty commute vehicles. If you buy it expecting it to pull like a freight train and crush anything from a roll you will be really sad. A modern v6 Accord or Camry is easily as fast or faster, especially from a roll and acceleration at passing speeds.

Most any new car has rev hang it's some sort of emissions thing.

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Ultimately the difference between a WRX and an STi will be price... What are you looking to spend? being you are in CA Either vehicle sells for Invoice-MSRP and keeps a stupidly high resale market. I ended up going with the STi over the WRX because it might be one of the last years for the EJ to be used. (something about that unequal length header sound). Its only been 2 weeks since my purchase, but I don't regret getting the STi. But then again, I love driving the WRX.

My point being, you will have to drive both (I suggest going to a CarMax like place to drive one) to decide what works best for you and the family.

Once you decide on the best one shoot me a PM on my Vendor acct. HeubergerMotors, I will take care of you.
 

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As said, you're not going to be able to increase power without an ECU reflash, which could cause warranty issues with the drivetrain (e.g., engine / transmission damage). On the street, you really aren't able to see the benefits of the STI vs the WRX; if you get into a motorsports environment where you can push the vehicle to its limits, however, it really shines. I know of two people who went from a Subaru to a VQ V6; both of whom went directly back to a Subaru engine afterwards.

A turbo H4 engine is going to be a different power delivery than a N/A V6. Some people like it, some people don't. Only way to know is to test drive it and see what you think.

Kenziel719 said:
I ended up going with the STi over the WRX because it might be one of the last years for the EJ to be used. (something about that unequal length header sound).
Put an EL manifold on the car along with a proper ECU calibration for it, and you'll forget about the "rumble" and wish you'd done it sooner ;)
 

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on a regular WRX (NON STi) Stage 1 OTS tune usually fixes the rev hang, and makes the car much much smoother and easier to drive and smooths out the powerband past 4000 rpms. The car wont be overboosted but will pull to redline like a normal car without all the dips. If nothing else it improves passing power a good bit Prob +20 hp or so.

Stage 2 J-Pipe, intake and protune will likely get you +50-60 whp. Id say adding over 100+ whp (325 on dynojet approx) and you get into rolling the dice on how long the clutch, and rods will hold out.

not a terribly quick car but is a lot of fun to drive.
 

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The 15+ STIs require fueling upgrades for intake and exhaust mods together. You get intake, or exhaust. Upgrade fueling and you can have intake and exhaust.

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If you care about power AND wouldn't want to void the warranty on a brand new car then I would not get the wrx.
OR
If you don't mind voiding your warranty but do mind dropping 3 - 5k to mod a brand new car then I wouldn't buy the wrx .

When you test drive the wrx, make sure you hammer on it because they are extremely deceiving.

Imo the car is slow.
 

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If you care about power AND wouldn't want to void the warranty on a brand new car then I would not get the wrx.
OR
If you don't mind voiding your warranty but do mind dropping 3 - 5k to mod a brand new car then I wouldn't buy the wrx .

When you test drive the wrx, make sure you hammer on it because they are extremely deceiving.

Imo the car is slow.
You bought a car off of bro hype not reality. Your expectations of the car were wrong not the car.

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If you have not already, drive both, and see which one fuels your “passion meter.” The WRX sold itself on my test drive while carving curvy country roads.
As John said...test drive and see how it feels.
We all get used to the power after a while and always want more. I think the important part is to see how it FEELS.
For example, I had NB Miata. That car doesn't have power but I loved driving it. I have Driven G35 6 speed manual a while. At first it felt like it had lots of power but got used to the power and wished for more power. But besides the power and the exhaust note that car was just ok to me. I will take Miata any day.

Back to WRX. It is a great all around sporty car. I am not planning to do any major upgrades yet but personalizing it a bit here and there. I want to drive this car for a long time.
 

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If you decide to get one and are in Cali, I would highly recommend looking into getting the car from Kenzie at Heuberger Subaru. 99% of Cali dealers are going to want to rip you off on the price, I am sure Kenzie can save you thousands over what you'd pay at a dealer in California, even with the shipping costs.
 

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If you decide to get one and are in Cali, I would highly recommend looking into getting the car from Kenzie at Heuberger Subaru. 99% of Cali dealers are going to want to rip you off on the price, I am sure Kenzie can save you thousands over what you'd pay at a dealer in California, even with the shipping costs.

for what it's worth, I considered buying an STI in cali last year. they wanted 5k more then the car I'm picking up from kenzie tomorrow final price......and this car has the short shifter and SPT exhaust added on
 

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here on the east coast you can buy a Civic Type R for about what an STi Limited goes for and have a lot more car. IMO anyway.
 

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I looked into CTR's here in Cali and every dealer is charging a $5,000 - $11,000 extra markup on the car. No thanks.

+1 for Kenzie in this forum being able to save you thousands off of the local CA dealers. OP if you're in CA, do not buy new from a local 'ship unless you like wasting cash.
 

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Thanks for all the recommendations!!!

I commented at the beginning off my personal account. All the work related info is on here if you want to give me a shot at earning your business!(email me) As you can tell, I am not only passionate about the cars, but I truly believe in customer service. Even though my pricing is REALLY good, I also don't beat around the bush just to make a deal. Feel free to call me whenever, I can go over all the info you would need to make the best decision for yourself.

Best,
 

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currently I have a 2000 Camry V6 with 65k
You already own a better car than any Subaru Impreza variation. Are you sure you want to do this? I'd keep the Camry indefinitely.
 

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I can see where you are coming from with the Z. My buddy had a 370Z, then got a ‘15 STI. He had tons of fun since now he didn’t have to creep in the snow with snow tires on the Z. Last year someone lost control and crushed his ride into a guard rail - totaled, faced with performance and AWD he ended up picking up a 2013 Audi S4, they did an APR tune at the Audi dealership for him (additional cost) and it’s covered under warranty. There is a recaro baby seat in the back lol.

Many options, but if you are looking at longevity, and space for your kids and their stuff then the WRX really doesn’t fit why you may be looking for. I’d still keep a secondary utility car if you do go the WRX route.



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Everybody can add some perspective here. Mine is test drive the hell out of it...All three way to 5500 rpm at least in 2nd and 3rd.
 

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I looked into CTR's here in Cali and every dealer is charging a $5,000 - $11,000 extra markup on the car. No thanks.

+1 for Kenzie in this forum being able to save you thousands off of the local CA dealers. OP if you're in CA, do not buy new from a local 'ship unless you like wasting cash.
True, but even with a $7000 markup on the CTR, its the same price as an STI Limited MSRP and still arguably a better car performance wise. If you really want a WRX then Kenzi is absolutely the way to go.
 

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True, but even with a $7000 markup on the CTR, its the same price as an STI Limited MSRP and still arguably a better car performance wise. If you really want a WRX then Kenzi is absolutely the way to go.
until it snows.

And of course at the end of the day from a financial standpoint, cars are depreciating assets as is. Spending a crap ton over msrp too get one is just full retard. OP better like that CTR because it'll be 6 years before he can break even
 
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