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I read that it's better to slip the clutch instead of dropping it to launch the car because it will be better for the tranny. Now my question is how much the stock clutch can take when you let it slip. Yesterday I launched my car at the light just to be able to pass somebody and switched lanes. I let it slipped. I could smell it afterwards. I assume it's bad. So how much a stock clutch would cost to be replaced, labor included? What about aftermarket clutches? Which ones and how much? What would I gain from it? I also read that a good aftermarket clutch is great but if the tranny is still stock, you're asking for more trouble later on. True? Thanks.
 

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Cost 250 for the whole kit and about 4 hrs labour.
 

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The stock clutch definitely keeps the transmission in one piece. Obviously, I have a tad more power than stock now and I've been racing a lot. Having laid down two dozen 1/4 mile runs with all sorts of launch techniques, I realized that no matter how hard you launch the WRX, the clutch will slip if you get carried away. I have slip/dropped the clutch as high as 6,000 rpms at full throttle getting me low 1.9x 60' times and the car accelerates fiercely, but the tach stays at 6,000rpm until the clutch fully grabs, then the engine redlines and I shift into second. It's really cool! I think that no matter how powerful my car becomes, if I'm running the stock tranny, she'll have a stock clutch.

-Jim
 

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Still kapoot. I'm towing it in tomorrow for three reasons. One I don't have time today. Super busy. Two the dealer can't take it till tomorrow anyway and three, I am throwing in the stock airbox before I take it in just in case. I suspect the problem is the MAF sensor.
 

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If you are going to look for a better clutch then give www.clutchnet.com a chance. I ordered the clutch for my GTI-R from them and I got everything for $441 shipped. You can even have a clutch built to your specs if you really wanted to. I had a CUSCO triple puck in my car but it had too much clutch shudder and it also has a solid center hub which meant it had really harsh engagement. If you had access to a lift I would say to do it yourself and save the money in labor but not everybody has that option. Its not very hard at all to do the clutch. At least not like doing the clutch in my car which requires the motor and tranny to come out the bottom of the car as one big unit. What are you doing for a flywheel or are you just having the stock unit resurfaced?
 

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RNN14 you'll find that most clutches made in the US are remanufactured units (particularly organic full face types). I've had so many problems with US clutches in the past that I now only use Japanese clutches. My dream setup is the ATS carbon fiber clutch disc but it is VERY expensive. For now I'll give the Cusco a try.
 

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I was reading up on clutches since more HP is on the horizon for my car and I drag race a lot. The trick is getting one that can handle the power you want without being impossible to deal with on the street. In traffic, one launches their care gently dozens of times on the way to work and if there's a traffic jam, it could be hundreds of times. I want fairly light pedal pressure, maybe 10 or 20 more lb.-ft. than stock, smooth engagement and the ability to handle about 400HP, just to be on the safe side. Any recommendations? Who manufactures four surface clutchs for our car?

-Jim
 

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I don't know there are some Mitsubishi owners around here who are running the ACT2600 and that is with AWD cars putting more then 350hp to the wheels. Ideally a carbon/kevlar clutch disc with a sprung hub and copper would be the best if you want something that will grip good, last a while, have smooth engagement because of the sprung hub, and still dissipate heat good. I ran a Cusco befor emy current setup and it was OK but didn't last as long as I wanted it to and it now seems to have been a bit over priced. I spent the difference in price between my OS Gikken and the Cusco on a light weight flywheel. You could also consider a OS Gikken twin plate or buy a brand new clutch off of yahoo.co.jp for a fraction of the cost. Shops sell new and used parts on there so just look for the new clutches. You could also get a FMIC kit with everything included for about $600.
 

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Hey...for a decent driver...not doing any type of drag racing...but whipping the rex around a bit...how long can I expect the stock clutch to last? What length of time will the stock clutch last (assume an average 5 speed driver (2 weeks of driving stick)).
 

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I had a Centerforce Clutch on my DSM. It uses a lower pressure rate (I think it was 2100~2300 lb) but a more aggressive material. Everyone knocked it as a bullsh!t clutch and said it wouldn't last. My car was in the 12's, maybe dipping into the 11's considering other cars that has similar (but fewer) mods. I was really happy with the clutch. It had light pressure compared to stock. As long as you didn't slip it long and hard all at once, you were fine. Works great for street guys who don't launch hard a lot in a short period of time, thus overheating it.
That said, my short shifter broke once and I had to take off from a complete stop in 5th gear once and it did make a stink about that (literally), but it help strong and to this day is still running. I estimated about 350 hp and 350 ftlb atleast on that car. I would say if/when Centerforce has a clutch for the Subie, it would be a great clutch for a street/road guy who doesn't need to make a bunch of violent launches all the time. I have heard of guys who strip a lot using the Centerforce, so it can be done too. You just have to know to let it cool a bit between launches.
 

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Able Knight said:
Hey...for a decent driver...not doing any type of drag racing...but whipping the rex around a bit...how long can I expect the stock clutch to last? What length of time will the stock clutch last (assume an average 5 speed driver (2 weeks of driving stick)).
Hehe, this made me chuckle. :) I've been driving stick since I was 10 years old (nearly 20 years) and I consider myself an average 5-speed driver too! No disrespect intended ;)

Things are a little different over here. Back in the UK, automatic trannies still aren't terribly popular, although they are getting more so I believe. When I first moved over to the US and climbed behind the wheel of an auto, I actually asked 'ok, how do I drive this thing?'

Anyway, I don't expect my clutch to last beyond 50k once I have the Unichip in place. If you remain stock, I would think that it would go beyond 100k even with some spirited driving.

-Pace
 

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Just as a side note to this discussion, you guys will faint when you see how much the factory WRX release bearing is. $150. Yep you read that right. Just the release bearing (which is usually $50-$75 on most cars) is $150!!! I just about lost it when I looked at my invoice. I was looking at it and it certainly doesn't look like anything special at all.
 

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PlatinumWRX said:
The stock clutch definitely keeps the transmission in one piece. Obviously, I have a tad more power than stock now and I've been racing a lot....
how do you figure? 95mph traps is around stock. I was running 97 with mbc. Your clutch should be fine.....for now! mwahhaa

I have slip/dropped the clutch as high as 6,000 rpms at full throttle getting me low 1.9x 60' times and the car accelerates fiercely, but the tach stays at 6,000rpm until the clutch fully grabs, then the engine redlines and I shift into second. It's really cool! I think that no matter how powerful my car becomes, if I'm running the stock tranny, she'll have a stock clutch.

-Jim
sure it's not your tires? I can cut 1.8 60's, but if I launch too high (and under boost) I can light the tires up through the entire first gear! Of course I get like a 2.0 60' on those runs. It's pretty cool:p

When I get a good launch the tires spin untill about 20mph or so then they catch. No bogging and 1.8's. I don't know how Nathan and Imprezive get 1.7's with the same technique.

Dan (GODSPEED),
you never reponded to the other thread. What times did you get when you went to the track (you posted 60' times, so you must have gone)?

-C
 
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