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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been quiet on here for a while now, but thought you guys would be interested in this....
2010 wrx hatch 131,900 exactly when she threw a rod right under the alternator. Ive been stage 2 since approximately 45k miles, on a torqued performance e tune. I change the oil every 3k miles with rotella 5w-40 and a napa gold filter (Which is made by wix)

The story goes, I was driving home from work with the cruise set on 70 when I hear a weird noise, I believed it to be my ac, which has been slowly dying the past couple months. I turn off my ac and the noise persists. I then look over to my oil pressure gauge which is always pegged at 100psi rapidly dropping. I throw the car into neutral and it dies.... I coast it off the road and pop the hood and there is oil all over the top of the motor. I knew at that point it was toast, I didn't however know just how bad it was until I got it to the garage and started pulling the motor. When the alternator came off I saw it. The connecting rod sticking through the block. It had punched its way through the block right where the EJ25 code is stamped into the shortblock. At this point I have the motor out of the car. I haven't pulled the heads off yet or split the block apart to see what may have caused the failure. Obviously some sort of oiling issue I would guess. I will post pictures and keep you guys updated. This gives me the perfect excuse to finally do a motor build and push a little more power. Im shocked that my motor failed in the way it did, since connecting rod failures aren't the typical MO in our cars. I always thought it would spin a rod bearing if anything ever did happen.

The plan right now is an IAG Stage 2 Tuff block, have the heads pressure tested/inspected/cleaned and reassembled by IAG as well. FP Green Turbo (Externally Gated), Equal Length Headers, Flex Fuel, Front mount setup, Speed density. I see myself running flex fuel most of the time and probably having a little bit of a higher HP tune but mostly running it on a lower boost, lower hp tune. I am fully aware this build is going to be expensive, but since I can do everything myself except a soild dyno tune ill just be in it for parts, then the tune. I already sourced an ACT HD Clutch and lightweight flywheel that's good for 500ft/lbs. Im on KW Variant 1 coils, Whitline Sways and lower control arms, Kartboy endlinks,I have SS brake lines, motul fluid and Stoptech pads and rotors. So most of the supporting stuff had already been done to the car.

I know building a motor, even one sourced from IAG and making over 400whp will shorten the lift of the motor even though it will be built. But since this is no longer my daily, and is my project car Im ok with it. Oddly enough the wife is as well.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, my build overview was brief and ill post a more detailed list of everything when I buy them. But it'll be interesting to see what happens with it in the next few months to come!
 

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Speed density may not always make the most sense. I recall this coming up in the past and after debate mass air flow setup was still the preferred path.

Sounds like a good excuse to make the best fun out of a real crap situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I also think I could get away with the internally gated fp green turbo as well since my power goals realistically aren't ever going to be over ~500whp, that would be pushing the limits of the FP Green anyway so itll live the majority of its life at 4-450whp I would bet and at those levels MAF would be fine and I could still use a beefed up BPV at that point too. Also going internally gated with the FP green would save me some money on the external setup that I could use elsewhere in the build.

And yeah, being a gearhead and married to a wife whos whole family is gearheads, shes totally with the full build, I really need to figure out how to post these pictures, of the connecting rod sticking out of the block... its wild
 

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Yeah, I also think I could get away with the internally gated fp green turbo as well since my power goals realistically aren't ever going to be over ~500whp, that would be pushing the limits of the FP Green anyway so itll live the majority of its life at 4-450whp I would bet and at those levels MAF would be fine and I could still use a beefed up BPV at that point too. Also going internally gated with the FP green would save me some money on the external setup that I could use elsewhere in the build.

And yeah, being a gearhead and married to a wife whos whole family is gearheads, shes totally with the full build, I really need to figure out how to post these pictures, of the connecting rod sticking out of the block... its wild
Try imgur or Tapatalk.

I'm not going to pretend i know the best path for anything near those type of numbers. But I'm sure you'll have fun while your wallet hates you on your path to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hahaha, very true, I recently acquired a MK3 Supra fairly clean, the plan was to build that but now.... Its for sale hahaha that will definitely ease the sting at least a little bit
 
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