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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, So after about a week of allowing the springs to finally settle, I got an alignment.

I got the eibach alignment kit (just rear camber bolts), and I had the guy install them while he was back there.

THE BEST he could do in the rear was -1.37 and -1.0 in the front. :mad:

0 toe all around...

My question is, was it the guy that did the alignment, or can the rear camber really not improve?

I don't care about sacraficing handling performance for having better treadware...tires are just too expensive!

I got the S-03s, and they're such a soft compound, I'm afraid they're going last only the summer! I want at least -1 camber in the rear, but I'm not sure it's possible! The stock camber bolts seem to work better...should I get a set of those?

Also, is -.75 or even -.5 camber POSSIBLE on my car?

Oh yeah, all my info is as follows:

Eibach Prokit springs, stock struts
18x8 SSR Comps wrapped in 225/40/18 Bridgestone S-03s
...that's it for suspension stuff!
 

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Sure seems like you should have gotten a little less negative in the rear. The EIbach bolts give about 1 deg of adjustment.

Stock bolts wouldn't work - possibly you could make them work by drilling out the holes larger. You could also get some top plates like Noltec to get more adjustment.

C
 

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I am not surprised by the rear settings. I went with the Prodrive springs which are slightly less drop in back than the Eibachs, and the best they could do was -1.2 without rear camber bolts. You do know that rear camber bolts are optional, right? WRXs only come with front camber bolts from the factory.

I'm actually more surprised by the front setting. The Prodrives are atleast as aggressive on drop in the front as the Eibachs and they told me they could have put camber at 0.0 if I wanted. Ended up settling on -0.7 after some discussions with fellow WRX owners.

Jimbo
 

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The best I could get out of the rear was -1.1 on one side, and -1.3 on the other, its really hard, and once you sit in the car its going to change about +- .1 to .2 degrees anyways. Best bet is camber bolts for the rear, about 40 bucks. For reference I got -.8 up front. I am running the STI suspension, but pretty much the same when it comes to configuring the alignment.
 

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Ryan's saying he does have the camber bolts, but he's still only getting to -1.3, i think i got mine to roughly the same, and i have camber bolts also. on the printout, it says -1.3 is the preferred setting for the car, so i said it's cool, and let it ride at that. i've been lowered for about 3 months now, and don't notice any unwear tread life as of yet. take it back Ryan, and see if they can get it any less.
 

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Take it back. The guy wasn't listening. He's got your rear at factory settings- w/ camber bolts you should be getting -1.0 at least! Lowering springs will increase neg camber over oe, so your starting w/ a little more (that should be on your spec sheet), but probably only a couple of tenths- maybe -1.5. The camber bolts should be worth .75-1.0 worth of adjustment, thus the -1.0 setting should be a piece of cake.

-1.0 sounds a little low too, most are getting -1.3ish w/ the oe eccentric bolts.

I hate hearing these stories about alignment shops not getting things right:mad: .

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Mike! Yes, I ALREADY have the camber bolts, but the guy took like 2 hours working on the rear camber! He got -1 easily in the front, but he said he tried everything to match that in the rear, but he couldn't! :mad: :mad:

And yes, Big Sky, I agree with you 100%...it makes me mad that I pay 80 bucks for an alignment and they can't even do it right! Not to mention my steering wheel is still off!! (I already went back once for that, but it's not as bad now...)

The guys are real cool, but they're young! The two kids that worked on my car the two times that I went there were at most 20... the other one was probably 18! (My age)

I know I'm in the stock range of camber in the rear, but with the new wheels, the negative camber is SOOOOO noticeable!!! I mean, it looks hella mean and all, but I like my tires too much!

I'm gonna go back there this weekend, and just have them play around with it some more. I think the problem may have been that they just installed the camber bolts, and tried to adjust the camber. So I'm trying to tell myself that because I didn't even drive the car with the camber bolts yet, they couldn't get a proper resting place, etc. lol Stuff like this bothers me... ah well

Look on the bright side, I'm ordering my TXS Stealthback tonite :D

As Wrinkleboi said, "I'm kickin' those kittens to tha curb!" :p

But back on topic, any other suggestions would be greatly greatly appreciated! You think I should try and go in there myself and mess with the camber bolts to see if I can notice anything when I do it? Also, do you adjust the bolts with the car's load on the wheels? (the alignment guy did...) I ask this because it seems that it'd be hella hard to change the camber when the car's load is on the wheels! (Yes, I know that the camber isn't true unless the car is sitting down, but you know what i mean!)

Thanks SOOO much! Sorry for just rambling on (but i'm bored)... :D

You guys are the greatest! ;)
 

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The negative camber in the rear won't hurt tire wear, its the oe setting. It will hurt handling however. It's nice to get some differential from the front to the rear- helps dial out understeer- at a minimum you want them the same.

Make sure they are loosening BOTH rear strut bolts- camber won't change hardly at all unless both are loose. Also they should be able to look at the computer screen and watch camber change across it's entire range w/ the turning of the camber bolts- like I said it should be close to a full degree.

I'd see if they'll you be there (I actually help the guy who does mine- lucky) and watch. It is possible the -1.0 is all they can get out of the front, but the rear (unless you started w/ massive neg camber) they should be able to get lower.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I watched him to mine too! Whenever I get stuff done to my car, I watch and learn!

I'm going to give them a call and let them know what's up. I'll probably stop by there later this week.

What camber settings do you recommend? I know -1 all around is good, but any other possibilities?

It's a DAILY driver, I don't AutoX (yet), I only use the good handling once in a while.

What about -1 front and -.5 rear? In "Sport Compact Car" magazine, the drifters (imports) had mad negative camber in the front and not that noticable in the rear...
 

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I think -1.0 front/ -0.75 rear would be good setting for agreessive street driving. -0.5 is starting to get too low, it will dial out understeer, but your rear tires like neg camber too (just not as much as the fronts need it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Big Sky WRX said:
I think -1.0 front/ -0.75 rear would be good setting for agreessive street driving. -0.5 is starting to get too low, it will dial out understeer, but your rear tires like neg camber too (just not as much as the fronts need it).
Alright thanks a lot!
 

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You mentioned OE ecentric bolts up front what are those?, how much more neg camber can you get up front with those (unless you mean OEM)? I have -.8 right now with my STI suspension and would like to get a bit more but don't want to put in camber/caster plates. Is it possible?
 

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I am pretty sure the OEM bolts up front will allow for a max of about -1.25.

-joe
 

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NJwrbT-WRX said:
I am pretty sure the OEM bolts up front will allow for a max of about -1.25.

-joe
That's correct. It seems to vary a bit, maybe based on different lowering levels, but between -1.1 - -1.4 ish should be achievable. Kanos I'd defintyely try maxing yours out in hte front w/ your setup- you'll see very little extra wear (if any) particularily if running 0 toe. One thing that is important to stress is that cross camber should be zero- which means if one side allows -1.3, but the other side only -1.1- go to -1.1 on both sides.

Big Sky
 

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Big Sky WRX said:
I think -1.0 front/ -0.75 rear would be good setting for agreessive street driving. -0.5 is starting to get too low, it will dial out understeer, but your rear tires like neg camber too (just not as much as the fronts need it).
I understand more neg camber in the rear is good for handling but. But i dont understand why you suggest less neg camber for the rear when it comes to aggressive drving. From my understanding more neg camber will equal more oversteer at low speeds etc, please explain.

Also im looking to get my suspension set up with oversteer in mind. I have 18"s, with dms 40mm coilovers and with 255whp. What settings should i use etc for. Ive been able to get slight power oversteer out of u-turns but not enough. So any help would be great.
 

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DEADPOOL said:
I understand more neg camber in the rear is good for handling but. But i dont understand why you suggest less neg camber for the rear when it comes to aggressive drving. From my understanding more neg camber will equal more oversteer at low speeds etc, please explain.
Other way around - more neg. camber in back = more understeer. All else being equal anyway and up to a limit of course.
 

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GV27 said:
Other way around - more neg. camber in back = more understeer. All else being equal anyway and up to a limit of course.
What he said;) .

Some people want to take all of the neg camber in the rear to get more oversteer-not a good idea, better to add it to the front than subtract from the rear. If you take neg camber out of the rear I wouldn't go anything below -0.75 IMO.

Other things you can do to dial out understeer- increase rear sway bar stiffness or decrease front; firm up damping in the rear, run a little softer in the front; I run about a 5lb diferential front and rear w/ tire pressures autoxing (39ish/34ish), street about a 3lb differential (35ish/32ish); you can add a little toe out in the rear- it will help the rear come around.

One word of caution- what is fun oversteer on the autox course can be very dangerous at speed- a misplaced stab at the brakes, lifting throttle in a curve etc can produce sudden and violent oversteer. I much prefer a neutral setup for those very reasons, if I make adjustments at the autox course for more rotation- I undo them before I leave.

Big Sky
 

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One word of caution- what is fun oversteer on the autox course can be very dangerous at speed- a misplaced stab at the brakes, lifting throttle in a curve etc can produce sudden and violent oversteer. I much prefer a neutral setup for those very reasons, if I make adjustments at the autox course for more rotation- I undo them before I leave.

Big Sky [/B][/QUOTE]

Ask me how I know...............:eek:


Big Sky, What would you consider a good neutral setting front to rear for "Spirted" Street driving without the above being a danger?

Thanks bro

Shotgun
 

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Big Sky WRX said:
What he said;) .

Some people want to take all of the neg camber in the rear to get more oversteer-not a good idea, better to add it to the front than subtract from the rear. If you take neg camber out of the rear I wouldn't go anything below -0.75 IMO.

Other things you can do to dial out understeer- increase rear sway bar stiffness or decrease front; firm up damping in the rear, run a little softer in the front; I run about a 5lb diferential front and rear w/ tire pressures autoxing (39ish/34ish), street about a 3lb differential (35ish/32ish); you can add a little toe out in the rear- it will help the rear come around.

One word of caution- what is fun oversteer on the autox course can be very dangerous at speed- a misplaced stab at the brakes, lifting throttle in a curve etc can produce sudden and violent oversteer. I much prefer a neutral setup for those very reasons, if I make adjustments at the autox course for more rotation- I undo them before I leave.

Big Sky
I meant to say more neg to front is good, and that i thought it was the same for the rear. Becouse at low speeds the more neg camber you have the less contact the rear tires have with the ground etc.

I guess ill do -1.0 in the front and have the stock setting in the back till i can get a camber plate etc. and i will have toe at 0 in the front with a little bit of toe out in the rear(not sure how much) then ill play around with tire pressures. Thanks for the help, and yes it can get a bit hairy at speed with oversteer but thats how i like it cuz im used to rwd cars etc.
 
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