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The easy way to do it is to replace the hard lines, run them through the cabin (I recommend center console area), and place a 1/4 turn brass plumber's valve in the line where it can be easily reached.. the kind with a red handle, like a lever.
 

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Would not expect walmart to carry wilwood, maybe I can buy a BBK the next time I go in for groceries
Walmarts website carries all kinds of stuff through 3rd party vendors.

Even with more rear bias you will still nose dive, perhaps you have too much brake for your application, or weak front suspension

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My wrx noise dives, the rear brakes are working and have been bleed. Still noise dives.

That's completely normal. All cars will nose dive when you get on the brakes. On deceleration the weight of the car is transferred forward, giving the front tires more grip than the rear. As a result the vast majority of stopping power comes from the front. In fact, the more the car nose dives the more traction it should have for stopping, and it also enables the front wheels to follow the road better. This is why people wanting to increase the handling performance of their car will often install an anti-lift kit which allows the nose of the car to lift/dive more than stock. It really has a tremendous positive effect on turn in. Setting the brake bias more to the rear won't prevent the car from nose diving simply because in a hard braking scenario there is already very little traction in the rear.. with all the traction in the front the front brakes are still going to be what stops the car.


What adjusting the brake bias does is change which set of tires locks first. In almost all scenarios you want the front tires to lock first. When the front tires lock first the car remains stable because the rears will be trailing in a straight line. If you were to adjust it to where the rear tires lock first the car would whip around under hard braking, putting the rear of the car in front of you (you don't want this).




Don't want to reroute the brake lines inside.

You could always route it inline with the factory hard lines, but then you won't be able to dial it in while driving. Usually when you're to this point in a race car most things will be rerouted anyways.
 

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My wrx noise dives, the rear brakes are working and have been bleed. Still noise dives.
This is a function of your suspension, not the brakes. This is called weight transfer.

Given your statement, biasing the braking toward the rear would likely significantly reduce overall braking performance.

If I were you, I'd investigate the compression damping on your front struts....
 

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Since the car already uses a proportioning valve, I'd think the options are to: either use this in addition to the existing valve, meaning the limit front/back will be set by the original valve anyway and this can only reduce braking; use this to replace the original valve, meaning there might be some plumbing required; fix the actual reason the car is kneeling, which likely hasn't anything to do with the brakes. Tough call.
 

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All the struts are crap. They are some kind of cheep adjustables that ride like a steal wheeled wagon. So my be that my issue.
It is almost certainly your issue if they are **** or not the right dampening you'll have huge amounts of nose dive.

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I agree with the suspension discussion & love my ALK.

However, the h6 rear brake rotor/bracket "mod" gives the USDM bugeyes the factory bias that the rest of the world got, and we should have, and it is great IMO. I'd expect that little bit of additional rear bias to increase stopping with a non-worn out suspension.
 

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Personally, I would start a new one.. not that it will make that big of a difference, but if we're changing topics it will help keep things more organized.

You could post a link to the new topic here so people coming here will know to carry over to the new thread if they have any additional input as far as suspension is concerned.
 
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