[Nube]

What's up fellas so I jus bought this 02 wrx with 129k miles for cheap. Here are mods:
Bov not sure what kind
Fmic
Cold air intake
Lowered on tein
Turbo timer
Aftermarket dp with a hole for o2 sensor? It's plugged
Full aftermarket exhaust
Boost gauge
All metal piping?

Anyway here are the issues

Car boosts at 7psi but peaks at about 9.5 in third gear
Every time I go into neutral the Rpms go all the way down then up then normal
Recently noticed when gas gauge is low my car stalls when going into neutral
Also sometimes in first gear the car fuel cuts at 5k rpm
Also in third or fourth gear car hesitates around 4500rpms like it loses but then gains power nd slowly climbs up
Oh and I found an oil leak that I'll check in the morning bc I would smell burning oil from turbo area.
As far cel codes I'm gonna check tomorrow again I know it was something about front o2 sensor.
Oh and also I noticed I don't have that restrictpr pill but I also have skinny hoses I believe the guy changed them out.

I know it's a lot and am kinda regretting getting this but jus couldn't let this deal slip away. Any help will be appreciated thank you

 

[Killerkanadian]

Full exhaust with no tune would be a reason for O2 sensor code obviously. When you check the codes you'l know though what issues you also might have.

 

[Sinister]

Let's see some pictures of the engine bay

 

[mycologist]

Start by fixing the front O2 sensor - that is required and is a separate issue from the DP etc. - if it is the sensor itself do not replace with a universal - you can get the right one on amazon.

It might well be your axle boot flinging grease, also check the turbo though.

The idle issue might be the IAC.

 

[Nube]

Alright thanks I'm gonna jack her up in a little bit and see what's goIng on down there. Quick question I was reading that the hole in the dp is not for o2 but for a wideband o2? And the front o2 would be around the up pipe area right?

 

[Nube]

Oh and how do I post pics up here? I have photobucket if that helps?

 

[Donkey]

Post the image URL from photobucket. Sounds like you need a new front o2 sensor an ECU retune at a minimum. Compounded problems are not easy to diagnose over the Internet. As for the hole in the downpipe it could be for a wideband if the stock rear o2 sensor is installed. The front o2 sensor is in the passenger side exhaust manifold.

 

[Nube]

Ok p0420 is the cel code I'll check for the front o2 in a sec and it does have stock rear o2

 

[Nube]

Ok here's a pic of the engine bay
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/pabhomie/ce2b9ff6.jpg

Here's one of the turbo and dp
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/pabhomie/1155708a.jpg

Here's on the t fitting where the restrictpr pill should be
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f248/pabhomie/fc6d4a72.jpg

 

[T0rque]

That bolt in the downpipe facing the trans is for a Wideband o2 sensor. Where was the other hole? I'd replace the front o2 sensor and quickly get that car to a tuner. Have them perform a leak down test and compression test replacing spark plugs. Replace the fuel filter and have them tune the car.

 

[MainFrame]

Have them perform a leak down test and compression test replacing spark plugs. Replace the fuel filter and have them tune the car.

On top of that, if the car isn't up to maintenance, you should go ahead and have the timing belt, tensoner, water pump, cam seals, etc. replaced along with all the other scheduled maintenance if it hasn't been done already. Of course if the engine has low compression you probably won't want to spend money for scheduled maintenance on a dieing engine. If everything checks out, and you get it all up to par you might have a boost leak test performed prior to tuning as well.. I know I always end up with boost leaks with my FMIC.

 

[Nube]

Well damn that's a lot of work... Ok I'll see what I can do evry where is closed Monday

 

[T0rque]

It's a lot of work but you technically bought a pile of ****... I mean sorry dude but that's someone else's headache because they didn't know what they were doing

 

[MainFrame]

they didn't know what they were doing

^this is your biggest problem here.. with the mods the previous owner chose to install, you would honestly be better going back to stock before getting tuned. You're at least going to want to ditch the BOV, CAI, and turbo timer. Those parts are going to do nothing for you but cause problems. The FMIC isn't going to do you any good at that power level either, but it might be more trouble than it's worth to remove it. And Tein springs are about the worst you could possibly get (assuming they're the H-Techs). You're probably going to need new struts too, because those springs will ruin stock struts very quickly.

 

[burdo1990]

I would Deff buy a Cobb sf intake and a Cobb accessport. Then I would do all the maintenance and flash to the stage 1 or 2 map once all is well and fixed. You'll be find with a fmic and bov.

Sent from my EVO

 

[MainFrame]

I would Deff buy a Cobb sf intake and a Cobb accessport. Then I would do all the maintenance and flash to the stage 1 or 2 map once all is well and fixed. You'll be find with a fmic and bov.

Sent from my EVO

Map notes for the Cobb OTS maps specifically say what mods they can be used with, and neither a FMIC or BOV are compatible. Regardless, a protune will provide much better results, and probably cost less in the end.

 

[Donkey]

Ok p0420 is the cel code I'll check for the front o2 in a sec and it does have stock rear o2

The P0420 is for the rear O2. I doubt that car has been tuned for the mods.

 

[mycologist]

Or, in other words, if you put in the work you might have a great car for your effort, but it might not be the most economical approach.

We've all been there and done that - for me it was worth the learning experience.