The problem could be the battery or the alternator. If the alternator is not pushing current to the battery to recharge it as the engine is going, then it will drain the battery. I would try both possiblities. But you guys probably already knew this. Just putting in my $.02
But about your question about your battery, 10 full drainings and jumpstarts might kill your battery. I'd say, pay the money and go out to your nearest Sears and buy a Die Hard. Best batteries money can buy. And they have certain replaceable warranties.
I have my doubts about the OEM alternator. A 2 hr drive through snow (lights, wipers, rear defroster, front defroster-thus-AC, radio) seemed to drain my battery. Couldn't perform a cold start the next day. Eventually I got a jump and took it to the dealer. They tested the battery, they said it failed the voltage test. They pro-rated a replacement (new battery for $15 can't be beat). For reference, my car was/is about 1 yr old.
Previously I'd left the dome light on all night (note, this did NOT happen after the above 2hr drive) and it cold-started OK. So.. before this it seemed like the battery was fine.
If my car needs a jump ever again I'll have them test/replace the alternator. BTW, unless it's hard to get to, replacing the alternator isn't a huge deal.
wow this one got dug up from the depths haha...it kept dying because back when i didnt have it at school it would sit for weeks with the alarm one...thats what was killing the battery..now i have it out here with me thank god so its fine!
It's funny that this should be brought up from the depths of the ClubWRX trenches.....Last week my battery died as well. Over the past few weeks my dash had flickered occasionally prior to startup but given the car was a year old I made nothing of it. Finally last week it was gone. I put in a spare battery to get it working. Tried slow charging the battery and it would accept charge. Today finally went to Subaru where they tested it themselves found the same problem and replaced the battery(free of course, otherwise I would go for a light weight race battery). Odd... Not sure if they tested the alternator, but I'm curious as to the culprit of the problem.
i know for a fact my alternator is fine cause i have an autometer volt gauge wired up and when the engine is on it reads almost 14 volts so i know the battery is charging. i havent had problems in a whiiiile though so im not so concerned anymore
A thought occured to me after my last post: the votlage regulator. (I mean, assuming modern cars still have those) They're supposed to manage where power goes, ie charge the battery when the alternator produces more than enough amps. Any old Subie guru's out there have a feel for the voltage regulator's reputation?
(and I mean old in the most positive light, of course. )
My stero runs over 400 Watts RMS (Quality RMS - not like what the cheap amp manufacturers claim!!) using the stock battery and alternator. Absolutely no problems whatsoever. Now if I turn the engine off that's a different story - the Stereo will suck the battery dry in 15 minutes! When it goes I'll put an Optima in.
Chris: and I guess you live in cold weather, too, eh? Discover any shorts when installing the amplifier(s)? You have an aftermarket stero, too? Last Q: Most of your miles from highway, "lively driving", or short-hop city driving?
I'm stumped. Maybe it's time to learn how to track down voltage leaks.. *headache*