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Discussion Starter #1
The family mechanic recommended changing my transmission fluid along with using antishudder liquid? Is that part of a certain kind of transmission fluid, or a separate fluid, and does it work well? I can shift fine, but I've lost a lot of torque and it makes a strange sound if I hit the gas hard.
 

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Most tranny fluid contains some sort of antishudder friction modifier. You can also buy aftermarket ones.

When did you start losing tq and why are you attributing it to your transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most tranny fluid contains some sort of antishudder friction modifier. You can also buy aftermarket ones.

When did you start losing tq and why are you attributing it to your transmission?
I got new tires recently (at a Ford dealership, lol) and when they took it out for the test drive I asked them to tell me what the sound was. They said it was the transmission. They weren't looking for me to get the work done there or anything, they were recommending I head back to Subaru if the car was still under warranty (sadly, I was t 62,000 that day). They said try changing the fluid first, and if it didn't work, it might need to be replaced.

If it is the tranny I take full blame for it, I didn't do the fluid change at 30,000 miles. Honestly, I don't know much more than very basic stuff about cars (I'm a computer guy). I wasn't aware of any issue so didn't think it needed changing.

If it isn't the tranny, I have no idea what else it could be. The clutch isn't slipping at all, the car shifts fine. But when I take off, like when I'm coming up on the highway, I have to do it gradually now. If I hit the gas hard, it makes a funny sound, kinda hard to explain but like a long zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz sound and I seem to lose torque. Once I'm going fast enough, it's mostly fine. I can still easily get the car over 80, but this rarely happens in 5th gear. It would be like if I downshift and hit the gas.
 

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Ford guys were right about one thing...take it to Subaru and have them check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ford guys were right about one thing...take it to Subaru and have them check it out.
I can't take it to Subaru. It's over $100 just to have them look at it. My family has a mechanic that doesn't charge us as much as dealerships for repairs. Plus, the last time I was at Subaru they tried to get me to do a $1500 tune-up. As far as I know, modern cars don't get "tuned-up" by dealers do to the difference in modern engines, so I wasn't really sure what the hell that $1500 was going towards. I looked at the list of things they did for that money, and aside from changing the oil, and a few filters, and the psark plugs, it seemed like a total rip off.
 

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^^^This...105k service is pretty all encompassing.
 

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OP go to the Subaru dealership and buy Subaru extra-s transmission fluid. If they don't have it order it online. Have your mechanic change it. Stay away from additives unless you really know what you are doing. The fluid in your car is probably just very old and needs to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
OP go to the Subaru dealership and buy Subaru extra-s transmission fluid. If they don't have it order it online. Have your mechanic change it. Stay away from additives unless you really know what you are doing. The fluid in your car is probably just very old and needs to be changed.
I'll do that tomorrow if the stuff isn't too pricey. Thanks. Is that fluid different than the regular fluid or is it all Extra-S?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^^^This...105k service is pretty all encompassing.
Even if it is, why would I need it at 63,000 miles? Also, I'm fairly certain my mechanic can do all the work for less. Do you guys pretty much only go to Subaru for repairs? I've found with every brand car that I always get charged a lot more at the dealership, and they play games. Like before the warranty was up they said there was nothing wrong with it, no sound. I'm sure now they'd be happy to charge $2500 for repairs. Just like when I had my Eclipse years ago and the TOB was bad. The delaership where I got is said it was the clutch and wanted $1500. I took it to a second dealership that said it was a warranty repair and did it free. With this current car, since no one wanted to admit any problem before the powertrain was up, I didn't get any free repairs.
 

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The Fruit
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I'd find a new dealer. While my car was under warranty I took mine there for everything. I have a service record an inch thick of just normal services and recently I had them do my version (same as the manual's version) of a 60K service. Which they were HAPPY to do for me without bs or games.

A ****ty service department is always going to be shady. Where was this other dealer that did your warranty work? Your mechanic should be able to do anything to the car that your dealer can, the only difference will be that they see them every day and might be a little quicker.. in the end, your guy will still likely get it done correctly to the same standard or better than the dealer. Esp if he has a long track record of NOT dicking you/family over.

As for the car not having torque.. or loosing it.. that's not right at all. There could be lots of things causing that. Over 60k there are things that are necessary to change. Check into your manual for the service intervals and have your mechanic take care of anything/all detailed at 60K .. if I remember right its f/r diff, trans fluid replacement.. brake fluid replacement, clutch fluid replacement and all the filters along with an oil change. I had my dealer do it.. ran me right around $460 or so but as said.. my dealer is good to me. I'm on first name "hey buddy" status with the service manager. Hell I ran into him at the mall and he intro'd me to his wife and kids.. never mentioned that I was just a customer.

as for trans fluid at 30k.. I didn't do it either (have 67k mi on my 2010 right now) but did have it done on interval at 60k with the other stuff and its been fine.

When was the last time you changed the air filter? .. dumb question I know but you'd be surprised how many people over look it. Also, popping the maf sensor out and gently cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner or carb cleaner might help too.

Another thing to check, is the intercooler hose that goes from cooler to throttle body. I found mine to be leaking boost due to weak clamps and failed rubber collars on each end. You're getting up there in mileage man its time to start paying more attention to the beast ;)
 

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Even if it is, why would I need it at 63,000 miles? Also, I'm fairly certain my mechanic can do all the work for less. Do you guys pretty much only go to Subaru for repairs? I've found with every brand car that I always get charged a lot more at the dealership, and they play games. Like before the warranty was up they said there was nothing wrong with it, no sound. I'm sure now they'd be happy to charge $2500 for repairs. Just like when I had my Eclipse years ago and the TOB was bad. The delaership where I got is said it was the clutch and wanted $1500. I took it to a second dealership that said it was a warranty repair and did it free. With this current car, since no one wanted to admit any problem before the powertrain was up, I didn't get any free repairs.
Notice how I said that BEFORE you posted how many miles were on your ride... ;)

Most people around here actually try and do the work themselves with some friends over the weekend with a case of beer. Personally, I will source my parts myself for cheaper, then take them somewhere trusted for the labor if I don't feel like doing it (like I will do with my timing belt/goodies soon).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'd find a new dealer. While my car was under warranty I took mine there for everything. I have a service record an inch thick of just normal services and recently I had them do my version (same as the manual's version) of a 60K service. Which they were HAPPY to do for me without bs or games.

A ****ty service department is always going to be shady. Where was this other dealer that did your warranty work? Your mechanic should be able to do anything to the car that your dealer can, the only difference will be that they see them every day and might be a little quicker.. in the end, your guy will still likely get it done correctly to the same standard or better than the dealer. Esp if he has a long track record of NOT dicking you/family over.

As for the car not having torque.. or loosing it.. that's not right at all. There could be lots of things causing that. Over 60k there are things that are necessary to change. Check into your manual for the service intervals and have your mechanic take care of anything/all detailed at 60K .. if I remember right its f/r diff, trans fluid replacement.. brake fluid replacement, clutch fluid replacement and all the filters along with an oil change. I had my dealer do it.. ran me right around $460 or so but as said.. my dealer is good to me. I'm on first name "hey buddy" status with the service manager. Hell I ran into him at the mall and he intro'd me to his wife and kids.. never mentioned that I was just a customer.

as for trans fluid at 30k.. I didn't do it either (have 67k mi on my 2010 right now) but did have it done on interval at 60k with the other stuff and its been fine.

When was the last time you changed the air filter? .. dumb question I know but you'd be surprised how many people over look it. Also, popping the maf sensor out and gently cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner or carb cleaner might help too.

Another thing to check, is the intercooler hose that goes from cooler to throttle body. I found mine to be leaking boost due to weak clamps and failed rubber collars on each end. You're getting up there in mileage man its time to start paying more attention to the beast ;)
I wish I paid more attention with my other cars before I had this one. Years ago my battery died (at the beach in the summer thanl God). I called my dad and he asked if there was water in the battery. I asked why would there be and he flipped out on me. Now I know some batteries need water. That actually fixed that problem. Since then I've learned small things, but it's the maintenance stuff I really need to learn. I do the air filter about every 3,000 miles. I'm slightly neurotic about that, and it's so easy to do, and only costs like $10 tops for a new filter. I haven't checked the MAF sensor, but I will tomorrow if it stops raining (CT weather sucks). I can check the hose on the intercooler, but what exactly do I look for? Just loose spots? Speaking of intercoolers, I was going to try to change my own transmission fluid, but apparently you have to lift the car, take the intercooler off, then there's more than one plug; it looked a little risky to do by myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, people keep posting about doing this stuff with friends, but none of my friends are gear-heads, so if any of you guys live in CT and want to show me how to do this stuff, I'll gladly buy the beer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Speaking of the MAF, opinions seem to vary online, some say spray the whole thing with CRC, others say never spray anywhere near the element (not that I even know what the element is), so which is it? What about the breather and PCV?
 

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The Fruit
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the element is the part that needs to be cleaned... ... just make sure to use something plastic/rubber friendly like carb cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Speaking of, its likely time to do mine again. Last I touched it was around 30k mi.
 

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by CRC you mean MAF Cleaner?

Spray the whole thing as long as its an actual MAF cleaner. No idea what CRC is.
 

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Ahhh gotcha...I've seen that, never knew that it was a brand though :)
 
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