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Was wondering what peoples thoughts were about switching to LEDs on the front end of the car. 2017 WRX Limited, comes with low beam LEDs and was looking at switching the hi/DRL, turn signals, and fog lights to 5,500k LEDs. On Subispeed I can get all of them (made by OLM) and install does not look too bad.

Question 1: Will I need a hyperblink module?

Q2: I know next to nothing about Subaru aftermarket parts, I am well versed in aftermarket Jeep parts, so here is the thing: Is Subispeed a quality place to purchase aftermarket products. Are the aftermarket products they sell real quality, or are they Amazon quality.

Q3: Would it be worth it to go ahead and swap out the fog lights to LED while I am changing the turn signals, or is it a waste of time and money?

Q4: Anyone know how the DRL is going to be affected by the swap to LED? As I understand it the DRL uses less voltage for the powering the bulb, when you put the high beams on though it ramps up to full power. The LED would be on full blast the whole time I figure as it requires less amperage to run.

Thanks for the help guys, and if this is posted in the wrong area, please let me know.
 

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I prefer hid over led.

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The High/DRL does use less power so will run all the time but AFAIK it's during daytime so no one will really care compared to normal sunlight. As soon as it gets dark the autolights will switch to lowbeam, so again, no problems.

The turn signals will hyperflash unless you put in a resistor or get the anti-flash module. The only downside to the module (from what I've read - I don't have it) is that it takes a second before the turn signal begins flashing compared to normal. Also this may affect your "tap to change lane" function as well. So resistor = harder install but better function.

As for the fogs, pretty easy install if changing just the bulbs but if you are replacing the whole unit, it's a little more involved. The stock unit is very plasticky, so if you are running high wattage bulbs, they could melt.
 

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I switched to LED up front; my low beam and marker lights with out any issue and the lights are much brighter then stock. I kept my high beam as regular 9005 or whatever they are (but changed to yellow for better visibility and look).
 

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I would highly suggest NOT swapping to LED's for your fog and high beams. After going back and forth between halogens and leds and hids in the fogs the halogens were always the best. Leds would spread light everywhere (same with hid) while the halogens were focused on where the light needed to be. Same thing with the high beams. LEDs completely ruin the high beams and fog lights.
As for the turn signals i would recommend the Vleds V3 triton amber kit. Super bright and comes with a resistor kit if you want or you can use a tapturn module or something.
 

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WAIT! You guys have 9005 lamps?! If that's the case, then convert them to 9011 (HIR)!

How to Modify HIR bulb bases

I think Osram makes 9011. They're almost certainly your best option.
 

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LED's at least for stock projectors aren't really great because it's not really designed for it. I've done a test with my light meter and the output of the LED's were dimmer than HID's even though bulb itself produce much higher lumen intensity if it wasn't in the housing.

Although I have to disagree about using it for the high beams; they are absolutely awesome. I recently started testing the Cree XHP70's (brightest on the market next to the new XHP70.2) for the 9005 reflector bowl. It's 1,500 lumens brighter pushing almost 7,000 lumens per bulb; compared to the 4,200 lumens with my 55W HID's I have.

Picture don't do it justice; the HID's here look narrow but it's because of the ultra wide angle I used. There's no photography tricks here as I used a manual setting to keep the exposure consistent.

I opted for the LED's because it can be turn on/off but also much cheaper and don't need to have LED light bars. I mainly bought these as I drive in a remote area where there are no street lights and infested with deer and other critters. It's godsend being able to see far out and wide.

 

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That bottom picture has so much flare that would blind anyone coming at you

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That bottom picture has so much flare that would blind anyone coming at you

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Well ya it's a high beam lol. Like I said it's the main reason why I got it as the roads around here are pitch black and is difficult to see. Obviously I don't use it when there are oncoming traffic.
 

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LED's at least for stock projectors aren't really great because it's not really designed for it. I've done a test with my light meter and the output of the LED's were dimmer than HID's even though bulb itself produce much higher lumen intensity if it wasn't in the housing.

Although I have to disagree about using it for the high beams; they are absolutely awesome. I recently started testing the Cree XHP70's (brightest on the market next to the new XHP70.2) for the 9005 reflector bowl. It's 1,500 lumens brighter pushing almost 7,000 lumens per bulb; compared to the 4,200 lumens with my 55W HID's I have.

Picture don't do it justice; the HID's here look narrow but it's because of the ultra wide angle I used. There's no photography tricks here as I used a manual setting to keep the exposure consistent.

I opted for the LED's because it can be turn on/off but also much cheaper and don't need to have LED light bars. I mainly bought these as I drive in a remote area where there are no street lights and infested with deer and other critters. It's godsend being able to see far out and wide.
That looks great. If they're reliable I'd keep them!
 

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That looks great. If they're reliable I'd keep them!
I guess time will only tell; for now since it's high beam and don't need to be on constantly, they seem to be holding up for now :D

those headlights are serious, any issues with heat at all? also what brand did you go with?
So unlike the LED's that come with fans, this one is bulky with woven metal heatsink. It's HUGE. It fits in the engine bay fine and haven't had any heat issues. I left it on for 10-15 minutes and while the base did get pretty warm (130 degrees or so with IR gun), it seems to dissipate heat without any issues. Of course when driving at night, I rarely leave it on for more than a minute before needing to turn it off with an oncoming traffic.

Identical to this but I bought it on Aliexpress so the price was little lower.

https://www.amazon.com/TINSINCE-Hea...03710031&sr=8-1&keywords=xhp70+headlight+9005

The second brightest LED's I've used was Hikari XHP50's which I have them as a backup. About 1,500 lumens dimmer but still very bright. Other $40 or so Amazon LED's if they don't indicate the Cree type are usually the dimmer Cree MK-R2's. XHP70's seem to be the brightest for headlight application so far.

I just wish these aftermarket LED's worked well enough for regular projectors. The output even with this XHP70 was terrible lumen wise. Very clean cutoff but somehow the bowl design don't work well.
 

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well 6600 lumens is a lot of lumens... i have an 1800 lumen flashlight and that thing is very bright outside at night. is it that the projector simply cant focus the light from the LED good enough?
 

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well 6600 lumens is a lot of lumens... i have an 1800 lumen flashlight and that thing is very bright outside at night. is it that the projector simply cant focus the light from the LED good enough?
I think so, it's weird. I've tried rotating it, moving it in/out to see if the distance would make any difference but the output was almost cut in half.

On the flip side the LED's as a high beam have been running good. Time will only tell.
 

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Are you running those super bright high beams as DRLs? I installed the Auxbeam F16 high (and low) beams. They are bright (nowhere near as bright as yours), but they have a fan to cool them. I was kind of worried about overheating, but was also annoyed by the sound of the fan. I unplugged the DRL resistor so I could turn them off, otherwise they were on at full strength all the time. That also allows me to run with my driving lights on so the C lights are more visible. I like the look and the visibility they give, but not sure it was worth stepping out onto that slipper slope of light modifications. At least with just using the plug in LED bulbs it is all easily reversible.
 

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Are you running those super bright high beams as DRLs? I installed the Auxbeam F16 high (and low) beams. They are bright (nowhere near as bright as yours), but they have a fan to cool them. I was kind of worried about overheating, but was also annoyed by the sound of the fan. I unplugged the DRL resistor so I could turn them off, otherwise they were on at full strength all the time. That also allows me to run with my driving lights on so the C lights are more visible. I like the look and the visibility they give, but not sure it was worth stepping out onto that slipper slope of light modifications. At least with just using the plug in LED bulbs it is all easily reversible.
I'm not, I have the DRL disconnected (it's a grey plug under the intake at least for my model). I heard LED's have issues with DRL so I didn't bother trying it plus I like the look without the DRL unless it's yellow (I had Nokya's halogen before).

Then again I'm sure you can re-route the wiring is my assumption if you want to run the C-lights. Those things do look really slick!
 
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