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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the procedure for pulling an airbag code for an 04 WRX wagon? The only instructions I have aren't very clear, and there's no dealer nearby for me to easily drop the car off to, for them to check it out.
Eventually, I'll take it to the dealer to fix under warranty, but I just want to make sure it's not a loose connection first.
 

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Does anyone know the procedure for pulling an airbag code for an 04 WRX wagon? The only instructions I have aren't very clear, and there's no dealer nearby for me to easily drop the car off to, for them to check it out.
Eventually, I'll take it to the dealer to fix under warranty, but I just want to make sure it's not a loose connection first.
look behind your dash clock, and see if one of those connectors are loose. when i put my gauges in, i had unplugged the clock/airbag indicator, and got an airbag light. so i plugged it back in, and shoved it out of the way.
 

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A decent OBD2 scanner should tell you the code.....and go from there.....but, have you done anything to the car recently??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
look behind your dash clock, and see if one of those connectors are loose. when i put my gauges in, i had unplugged the clock/airbag indicator, and got an airbag light. so i plugged it back in, and shoved it out of the way.
I actually did remove the dash clock before. I'll double check, but I didn't remember seeing any connectors other than the one for the clock. Still... I'll double check later.
 

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If the system is actually OK and you don't have a short at the clock connector there could be an electrical issue under the car (stripped or worn wire, loose connection etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A decent OBD2 scanner should tell you the code.....and go from there.....but, have you done anything to the car recently??
The OBD2 scanner actually won't read the code for 2 reasons... Most OBD2 scanner are reads generic codes common to all vehicle sold in the US after 1996. Those standardized codes only apply to the engine and transmission. Scantool manufacturers will have to pay vehicle manufacturers for the right to the programming to access other types of codes (srs, body ecu's, immobilizers, etc). Most scantool manufacturers either decide not to pay extra, or will end up charging the end-user a pretty high price. Right now, I have access to a pda scantool, and Techstream (laptop based, on a Panasonic Toughbook... same laptop at least as what Subaru uses). Neither of them has access to Subaru srs codes.

Second... even the Subaru dealer tried with they OEM scan tool, and could not pull codes. They said some wires needed to be jumped. I had left my car with them the next day. Turns out they got bought out and were no longer a Subaru dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the system is actually OK and you don't have a short at the clock connector there could be an electrical issue under the car (stripped or worn wire, loose connection etc.).
You're saying that a short at the connector for the clock could cause the airbag light to come on? If so, that might be the problem.
 

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Sorry, I used "short" when I should have used "open." In either case though you're either looking at an electrical issue IF the ABS system is actually working OK otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, I used "short" when I should have used "open." In either case though you're either looking at an electrical issue IF the ABS system is actually working OK otherwise.
Do you mean ABS or do you mean airbag/srs?
I did disconnect the clock once, but the light did not come on til a couple weeks later. I had hooked up something to the wires for the clock because I needed a constant battery voltage, and a constant ground. Since those are branched off of a junction of constant B+ from the ignition switch... the the ground is just to body ground... that really shouldn't have an effect on the airbag system, right? Or does Subaru have some quirk with clocks and airbags... like the airbag only works at certain times :confused: ?
 

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Sorry, I'm hard of reading this morning!

I did mix up ABS with SRS!

There's no peculiarity to the system that I know of. I suspect a connection in the dash or -- since it's SRS -- the seats or front of the car.

The light goes on usually when someone changes the steering wheel, changes the seats, or removes something in the nose (bumper, radiator etc. -- and messes up the crash sensor connection up front).

If you were doing something in the interior or way up front on the car, that might be what caused the issue.

EDIT: And I think the clock connector itself may not be the problem since your car is early. I think it'd be a problem on 06+ cars instead. Did you happen to do anything to any connectors in the dash anyway though? Even on earlier cars the system wiring goes across the car to the passenger side since there's a bag not just in the passenger dash but also the passenger seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry, I'm hard of reading this morning!

I did mix up ABS with SRS!

There's no peculiarity to the system that I know of. I suspect a connection in the dash or -- since it's SRS -- the seats or front of the car.

The light goes on usually when someone changes the steering wheel, changes the seats, or removes something in the nose (bumper, radiator etc. -- and messes up the crash sensor connection up front).

If you were doing something in the interior or way up front on the car, that might be what caused the issue.

EDIT: And I think the clock connector itself may not be the problem since your car is early. I think it'd be a problem on 06+ cars instead. Did you happen to do anything to any connectors in the dash anyway though? Even on earlier cars the system wiring goes across the car to the passenger side since there's a bag not just in the passenger dash but also the passenger seat.
No, I didn't do anything else to the car. I was just driving and the light came on. It was intermittent at first, but now it's constantly on. I had already checked all the yellow connectors under the dash that I can find.
I just need to pull the code and find the connector, rather than guess at which circuit is affected.
Another thing I saw too was that the connector I need to pull the code, is also the one I need to turn off the light. I'm guessing that even if I did tighten the loose connector, I still might need to manually turn off the light and recheck for the light to come back on.
 

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I'm guessing that even if I did tighten the loose connector, I still might need to manually turn off the light and recheck for the light to come back on.
That could well be the case, I know some makers force the light to stay on until reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Anyone happen to know where the connector that I need would be located?
 
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