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Discussion Starter #1
CAUTION: LONG

i know this has been brought up many times but i must post again for more new people to find in searches...

I bought 05 rex bout month and half ago just broke it in and had the same problem that 90% of new Subaru owners get ( compared to other manuals you have driven or even if this is your first manual you feel the clutch engages too high) By high it is meant that while releasing the clutch it doesnt "grab" untill it is almost fully out right when you feel the spring forcing back at you and your leg is bent very uncomfortably which you feel is making you bog/take longer at lights. So i read and read about how the engage point cannot be adjusted due to the hydraulic clutch untill i found that you can adjust the rod the clutch pedal is connected to that goes into the firewall. This will NOT adjust the way the clutch engages but will make the clutch pedal itself move lower (toward carpet) if you notice the pedal itself stock is about 1/4-1/2" higher than the brake pedal this is the whole problem if you adjust it to even with the brake pedal or slightly lower than, your problems will go away, the clutch will feel so much more "soft" (less push back at you), easier take off, smoother shifting, and less clutch travel.

So.. your yelling how do i do this... okay lay under your dash look above the gas pedal, push in the clutch, you will see the rod going through the firewall move. There is lock nut there loosen it, than take off the bronze retainer clip which will let you remove the pin. After doing this the silver "U" joint that the pin was going through can now be turned on the threads of the rod. Turn it about 1-2 turns where it moves lower on the threads. Lightly push the clutch in to line the holes up, put pin back in insert clip and tighten the lock nut and give it a try. Hope this helps you out cause it did me. Also important do not over adjust (no more than 2 turns) as it will end up hurting some things.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW: im sorry i dont have pics but im sure you can find some if you do more searches but it is fairly simple, once again good luck and hope it helps someone out
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:redface: Sorry to gv27 as this topic was in the sticky. Very sorry just wanted to help out people with my same problem.
 

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Ahhhh This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanx so much.!

I thought my clutch was gone cus like u described it was catching at the end of the pedal.
I will give this a try. it should help me out from what i hear.
 

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Hmmm is this true on the STi too? I agree I have to have my leg bent awkwardly as the clutch is engaging. But wouldnt making the pedal closer to the floor cause it to be engaged at almost the top of the pedal travel?
 

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ya same with STi? it seem to happen with em too... going check it out today.. actully
 

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i did it with only one full turn and now i can shift even faster, and i could shift fast. but still feel like im going to need a clutch....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well, im glad its helping some out thats why i posted, but umm i have never even seen anything but the body of an sti lol but i would assume it would be the same assembly under there. So hope it works out.
 

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amazing! I thought i needed a new clutch because it was so high off the floor and not shifting smoothly...thank you so much! you just saved me quite a bit of money
 

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The link to the picture in the manual has a lot more steps then what is mentioned above, including bleeding the system. Is all that necessary? What would be the damage of turning it too far? always partly engaged or disengaged?
 

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The link to the picture in the manual has a lot more steps then what is mentioned above, including bleeding the system. Is all that necessary? What would be the damage of turning it too far? always partly engaged or disengaged?
your only moving the pedal, not the entire thing
 

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curses, now I cant remember which forum the sticky was in that I was referring to but I thought it was just for moving the pedal. I took a quick look at mine and I know the original owner never adjusted it, yet its maybe a few millimeters higher then the brake pedal if that. Yet, there has to be a way to get it to engage lower. Maybe there isn't but most cars let you adjust. I'm just a stupid subaru newbie.:sadwave:
 

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Short-Clutcher

When I was researching this clutch adjustment, I thought this would only affect the engagement point. However like someone said in a similar thread, this adjustment reduces pedal travel therefore engagement point is lower, but still high relative to the total travel. This is like a short-shifter mod but instead it's for the clutch travel.

I did one turn clock-wise facing the firewall. It made a huge difference, I'm quite happy the way it is now.
Thanks to Time4Flamage for the instructions I used to do this.
 

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Tools & Sequence

Since having my car serviced last year, I felt like the clutch engagement point was too low. Then I would sometimes have trouble shifting to first from a stop; needing to roll a bit, or shift to second gear and then first. Recently, shifting from first to second has met with resistance about 10% of the time. Just adjusted & wanted to share more details.

Tools used:
12mm open end wrench
needle nose pliers
flashlight

Move driver's seat all the way back. Flip yourself into the contorted position required to stare under the steering column. Point flashlight about 6 inches above gas pedal, and find a clevis that links to the clutch pedal via a foot-long bar.

12mm wrench loosens the lock nut between the clevis and firewall. Turn clockwise to loosen, in this case.

Needle nose pliers provide some leverage to remove the brass retaining clip that holds the pin of the clevis. Just set the pin on the floormat, as you will need it soon enough.

Notice white, plastic flared on the end of the clevis pin. Use needle nose pliers to sqeeze those flared ends, or the pin will not slide out. Remove pin and set it on the floormat, too.

Roll head slightly side to side to relieve cramp in neck. Do not move too much, or you will get poked with the seat adjustment lever.

Clevis can now be moved around a little bit. Screw it in or out as needed. I tried 1.5 turns out, and will find out shortly if I got the direction and amount correct.

Slide pin back into place - took a little fiddling around to align. Slide brass pin back into place. Tighten lock nut. Try to pull your sorry ass off of the floor.
 

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Clutch Adjustment

I have an 06 and I am just not seeing these adjustment points that you guys have found. I am wondering if anything changed. Anyhow, here are a couple pix. If you guys are able to identify the adjustment points I'd appreciate it, otherwise I am guessing something has changed.



If you look at your pictures, the pedal on the right of the pic is the clutch. You will notice a gold colour "fork" at the top of the clutch pedal. On the backside (closer to the firewall) is a locking nut. Loosen this nut with a 12mm open end spanner about a 1/4 inch and use you fingers to turn the shaft while lightly pressing on the clutch pedal. Slight pressure on the pedal allows you to turn the rod easier. You will feel the pedal move in or out according to the direction that you turn the shaft.

Once you are happy with the new position, retighten the locking nut and you are good to go.


[email protected]
 

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If you look at your pictures, the pedal on the right of the pic is the clutch. You will notice a gold colour "fork" at the top of the clutch pedal. On the backside (closer to the firewall) is a locking nut. Loosen this nut with a 12mm open end spanner about a 1/4 inch and use you fingers to turn the shaft while lightly pressing on the clutch pedal. Slight pressure on the pedal allows you to turn the rod easier. You will feel the pedal move in or out according to the direction that you turn the shaft.

Once you are happy with the new position, retighten the locking nut and you are good to go.


[email protected]
 

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If you look at your pictures, the pedal on the right of the pic is the clutch. You will notice a gold colour "fork" at the top of the clutch pedal. On the backside (closer to the firewall) is a locking nut. Loosen this nut with a 12mm open end spanner about a 1/4 inch and use you fingers to turn the shaft while lightly pressing on the clutch pedal. Slight pressure on the pedal allows you to turn the rod easier. You will feel the pedal move in or out according to the direction that you turn the shaft.

Once you are happy with the new position, retighten the locking nut and you are good to go.


[email protected]
THis is for a JDM right hand drive but it should be the same for your car if it is an STi06
 

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Since having my car serviced last year, I felt like the clutch engagement point was too low. Then I would sometimes have trouble shifting to first from a stop; needing to roll a bit, or shift to second gear and then first. Recently, shifting from first to second has met with resistance about 10% of the time. Just adjusted & wanted to share more details.

Tools used:
12mm open end wrench
needle nose pliers
flashlight

Move driver's seat all the way back. Flip yourself into the contorted position required to stare under the steering column. Point flashlight about 6 inches above gas pedal, and find a clevis that links to the clutch pedal via a foot-long bar.

12mm wrench loosens the lock nut between the clevis and firewall. Turn clockwise to loosen, in this case.

Needle nose pliers provide some leverage to remove the brass retaining clip that holds the pin of the clevis. Just set the pin on the floormat, as you will need it soon enough.

Notice white, plastic flared on the end of the clevis pin. Use needle nose pliers to sqeeze those flared ends, or the pin will not slide out. Remove pin and set it on the floormat, too.

Roll head slightly side to side to relieve cramp in neck. Do not move too much, or you will get poked with the seat adjustment lever.

Clevis can now be moved around a little bit. Screw it in or out as needed. I tried 1.5 turns out, and will find out shortly if I got the direction and amount correct.

Slide pin back into place - took a little fiddling around to align. Slide brass pin back into place. Tighten lock nut. Try to pull your sorry ass off of the floor.

-I am having problems with this. I took the retainer clip and pin out but the clevis is still around the pedal lever, therefore there'sno way of twisting it! how do i do the actual adjustment? thanks.
 
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