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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sti has about 750 miles on it. When i got home last night i saw my access port and Cobb intake was on my steps. I’ve been very careful during the first 1000 miles not to beat on the car. Is there any reason i should be waiting for the 1000 miles to put on the access port and intake?
 

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1k isn’t a hardline point the engine is broken in. It’s just a safe point to say surfaces should be bedded properly and wear minerals should begin to level out.

The only way to know for sure is consistent used oil analysis to track what’s going on.

Personally, with the ongoing class action lawsuit and the numerous threads I’ve seen across the expanse of the webernet about dead engines on the STI, I personally would be very hesitant to install either

However, your question is about it being ok with that mileage. My answer is I would wait. If you decide not to, I don’t see having an problem that wouldn’t have arisen without the tune and intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting...this is the first time I’ve owned one of these cars and I’d like to ready more into this. Do you recommend looking anywhere specific for people having issues that they haven’t caused themselves.

To give any insight on myself I’m 34. I’ve been working on cars (American) from the ground up since i was 11. I know better then to go into the tuner and start messing around with things. This car isn’t going to be abused. Am i gunna get on it here and there? Yea of course. Why else have it? But light to light launches? Hardly. I live in New Jersey and have a local shop who has a very good reputation for these cars. So at some point I’ll have him do a tune on the car. For now I’m just looking to run the basic intake and shelf tune. So if you go point me in the direction of some literature showing people blowing these things up with an unmolested stage 1 setup that would be great.

I say all of this because know of a few people personally who have detonated these cars but i know it was their own doing. I have other friends that have these and have zero problems but they’re pretty heavily modified cars.

Thanks for any info.
 

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It is a toss up really. The chances of your engine being effected like others is slim. But it happens. Stage 1 with an intake will not add any risky power to the engine or drivetrain, however would be enough for Subaru to deny a warranty claim if submitted.

If you plan on keeping this car for a long while and plan on modding it then there is no harm in adding the intake and accessport as long as it properly tuned for.

As far as the law suit on Subaru goes, just google it. You will find plenty of threads about it, and there is a recent on here with a guy going through it. And for what its worth, my 2012 STi recently spun a rod bearing with only 57k miles. Unfortunately it is modified to the point that trying to go through Subaru is not an option. I am getting it built through IAG Performance. But I also drove my STi very similar to you. Very mildly. You have to pay to play as they say.
 

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Wait to install it? Absolutely. Be patient. At least rack up a few thousand miles. I think I waited at least 5k on my 15 STi and even longer on my 13 WRX.

Motors blowing up? Yeah. It's a thing. This is strictly from my own experience on the forums, but the majority of motors I read about blowing up seem to have two coincidences made up of hard driving and and poor choices of modifications.

I wouldn't trust E-tunes. It seems that most of the times I read about a motor popping the car has an e-tune. Granted, I don't believe there are as many forum members who keep their cars stock.

I never had any problems with my Cobb AP, SF intake with heat shield, and Cobb OTS tunes on my previous two cars. But, I don't abuse my cars and I don't launch them. I think the Cobb tunes seem pretty safe. I don't read about many Cobb tuned motors blowing up. Just be aware that there's no Intake and Downpipe combo Cobb tune on this generation.

If you plan to do any "power" modifications to the car after the aforementioned combo and a 'catback' exhaust, then put that thing on rollers for a tune. Travel to one of the few reputable tuners in the nation. Do your homework. Again, my personal advice is to ignore E-tunes. Others may say differently.

As far as maintenance goes, change your oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Get a break in oil change at 1,000 miles. I'm a firm believer in break-in oil changes.

You don't have to treat these cars like porcelain dolls, but don't treat them like a juvenile, either. If you're looking for a car to go wide open throttle in a straight line and expect results and reliability, you might have made a mistake in your choice of vehicle. These aren't made for the same purpose as American Muscle cars. You'll also find yourself losing a lot of races... even to high powered soccer moms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
ProZach thanks for all of the info. I do a 1000 mile break in change on all of my performance cars. And I’ve always done full synthetic 4000 mile changes split with a filter change. I see myself treating this car the same way. As far as doing too many mods to the car that’s a long way off. I bought this car because my other cars aren’t really “daily drivers” anymore but i need to enjoy my ride to work. With that being said I can’t leave anything alone. Stock isn’t for me but I’m staying very mild until the car is at least paid off.

As far as shelf tuning goes it isn’t that i don’t trust them but i don’t have 100% faith in them. Every cars a little different. The dr wouldn’t give you a prescription without checking your symptoms so why do that to your car. Just my opinion. I also know how important the fine tuning of a forced induction car is.

Lastly this thing isn’t gunna see many launches. If it’s ever going to see a track it’s going to be a road course and that’ll just be to check what it can do. Otherwise i have 2 other cars that i can beat the daylights out of there so why do it to my daily driver. Now again. That title shows up in the mail it’ll join it’s brothers in the tear it all apart catagory. Whatever happens after that is my own fault.

Thanks again. Any preference on oil/filters.
 

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I don't see the harm in installing the AP this early but to each their own, just don't abuse it and of course the obvious maintenance, maintenance, maintenance.

As for oil, I use 8100 Motul X-clean 5W30 and I always use OEM fitlers... highly suggest buying the Fumoto drain valve, makes oil changes quick and easy.
 
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