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04.SPT.WRX said:
:)

Have had some time to drive the WRX after the MAF cleaning / AP ECU reset. The idle seems to be noticeably smoother. I will see what the MPGs are on this tank as well.
23 mpg. Impressive. :wiggles: I usually see 20-22.
 

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Well, I bought the can, and took out the MAF...only to find the MAF was actually pretty clean.
I was actually hoping to find it dirty to get a little horsepower fix LOL!

Thanks for posting the tip though.
 

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Sales mgr @ the local Carquest is going to order a case from the depot in NC today so I can buy one off him. :wiggles: A little schmoosing never hurts! I felt like a salesman for CRC for a minute. Mgr's pretty sure he can sell the rest so I'm set tomorrow afternoon ... :D

EDIT: After cleaning my MAF sensor and running a bottle of the 3M fuel system cleaner through the tank, the butt dyno says I've got ~5-10hp back in my engine, more response, smoother everything. Do it! Do it now! I use an oiled K&N which I probably over-oiled since there was a bit extra on the seals for the MAF sensor, but I cleaned that off as well. This thread fell into my attention just at the right time and I can definitely correlate the loss in engine response to the week after I oiled that filter last month. Glad I cleaned up the sensor! :p
 

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Cool!!

Say I do this, sounds like I realy should:eek3: (02 WRX 71,000miles)
Should I reset my ECU, I don't have any Engine Management System?

Probly should If it's rely dirty??
Sounds like it has been working for most all without resetting.

I'm going to get a can today, thats if I can find any.
You would think, with all these sensors on our Subaru's, they would be able to tell our blood preasure or the
Teperature outside..
 

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WRXgotit said:
Say I do this, sounds like I realy should:eek3: (02 WRX 71,000miles)
Should I reset my ECU, I don't have any Engine Management System?

Probly should If it's rely dirty??
Sounds like it has been working for most all without resetting.

I'm going to get a can today, thats if I can find any.
You would think, with all these sensors on our Subaru's, they would be able to tell our blood preasure or the
Teperature outside..

I think this came up earlier in this thread and it rings true all around the forum. If you change something related to your engine: intake, exhaust, etc., you should reset the ECU utilizing your EM device or the battery disconnect/brake stomp. You won't have the learning your ECU may have grown accustomed to, but you can do the ECU trick or just deal w/ the learning for a week and you're golden.

A little ECU reset never hurt anyone w/ proper programming! :D

That being said, it probably doesn't matter either way for this, but if your MAF was dirty, you are technically changing what the ECU is used to, even though it is ever so slight in some cases. For what it's worth, I haven't reset since I'm reflashing stage II to my AP tomorrow after the install so it'll be a whole new world anyway...
 

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Got It!!!

YES!!!!!:) SHUCKS here in Lakewood Washington had it for $5.99.
Can't wate to see how this works out!
I know I need it, I run a drop in K&N filter and did the silencer delete. Also my cars at a wopping 71K.
 

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Thanks yet again almighty "Big Sky WRX" Not only is it good for maintenance this helps to clear the cel code OBD P0171 here is some useful info:


"Technical Description

System Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters (K&N, etc.) can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor."
 

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Well my car never threw a code for this, but it did slightly stumble/hessitate under part throttle acceleration at times and could never track it down.

I remember seeing the original thread on this a few years back but never did the MAS cleaning since I am running a Blitz SUS filter which isn't oiled.

Well, I did a quick MAS cleaning with non-chlorinated brake cleaner tonight after reading the last couple of posts and the hessitation is gone! Thanks guys.
 

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Big Sky WRX said:
I know it's been covered some time before, but a nice little reminder for those that haven't seen it- clean your MAF sensor- it's easy and cheap :)

The MAF is simply unplugged and then two phillips head screws (use a rather fine phillip head so you don't round the screws) and it's it out.

I use CRC MAF cleaner- $5 a can and specifically made to clean MAF's



Before and after pics of the MAF- first one it's black and kind of sooty looking, the second you can see the wires cleaned and the almost amber color of the "bulb". Simply give it several sprays from several different angles- let it dry good and put it back in.

This is a good time to throw a new filter in as well :)
WOW Big Sky the results from this was just AMAZING... my car has no more lag in first gear, it looks like im getting better mileage since i hit 170 to a half tank (when normally it was 150 or less) and to top it all off it idles great....all I can say is thanks for bringing it up :thumbup: because honestly I'm pretty damn confident I wouldnt have if you didnt......
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Nice! I think results will vary greatly on the cleanliness of the sensor- if it's fairly dirty I think the results will be a little more "dramatic", fairly clean- might not notice much at all.

The good thing is it's fairly cheap and certainly won't hurt :)
 

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Hey Sky, Many thanks for the idea!!!

I cleaned the M.A.F on my wife's P.T Cruiser and it cured a dam high idle prob that's been driving me nut's for 2yrs!!

The car has around 10000miles on it and it would NOT idle down below 1500rpms and I have screwed around with all kind of wacky ideas!

The cleaning did the trick..........

I owe ya one


Shotgun
 

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I went to Advance Auto to try to get some of this cleaner, but they didn't have any. I really wanted to clean my MAF sensor b/c I'm running a K&N filter on my 77,XXX mile wrx. I found non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner, but the label said "do not use on any electronic devices", so I didn't want to risk it. I also found intake cleaner that said it was safe for o2 sensors, but again, I didn't want to risk it. What's the best thing to use or where can I find some of this stuff? Hopefully it will take care of some of my low rpm lag and make everything a bit smoother.

Also, forgive my noobism but uh..... where is the MAF sensor how do you take it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
BONES1672 said:
Also, forgive my noobism but uh..... where is the MAF sensor how do you take it out?
The sensor is located right beyond the air filter (closer to the engine side)- two phillip head screws to remove.

You might go on line and see if they have a dealer locator on their site.
 

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I read on the side of the can that the sensor needs to be hot before cleaning. Did you guys do it that way? I did not see any mention of it in this thread. Also, should the ecu be reset after doing this cleaning?
 

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rex.effect said:
I read on the side of the can that the sensor needs to be hot before cleaning. Did you guys do it that way? I did not see any mention of it in this thread. Also, should the ecu be reset after doing this cleaning?
No. You actually read the can? :confused: A sensible thing to do ...
 
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