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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Impreza WRX (94,000 miles)

Mishimoto Tubro Inlet
Mishimoto Rad
Lightweight Crank Pulley
K&N Oil Drop In Air Filter
Invidia Catback Exhaust
COBB AP Stage 1
New (AZ) Accessory Belts

9000 miles ago I pulled engine to replace head gaskets, water pump, and timing belt.

History of issue:

Owned car since April 2016
First winter with her and I had many issues. Radiator leaking from the plastic seams, power steering was tough and squealing, and the big (and related) issue was the car stalling on me at stops. The stalling started few and far between and gradually grew over a month to happening twice to three times the final day.

Trying to fix my issue I cleaned my MAF, removed and cleaned throttle body, new air filter, fully charged battery. Nothing worked.
Found out about the engine re learn trick (remove battery to erase ECU - re install - turn key to on for 15 seconds before starting car - idle for 15 minutes - turn car off for 5 minutes - turn key to on for 15 seconds - start car and idle for 10 minutes - turn car off) and that FIXED (for time being) my stalling issue. Idle sounded its best too.

Fast forward to THIS winter, christmas eve, driving home and the car shudders coming to a stop light. Light turned green before I stopped so I gassed it into the closest parking lot, turned into a parking spot, and the car died.

My NEW and CURRENT issue now, car starts and idles PERFECT... but stalls and dies when I shift into drive or reverse. Spent 2 weeks checking all the same things as before, with no luck. I did FIND that the ground wire to the duty solenoid located on the passenger tower strut in the engine bay... was not connected. Must have come undone over the 9000 miles of vibration. Unfortunately re connecting this ground did not solve my issue.

Got it towed to the shop, and to my surprise the tow truck driver was able to drive my car onto the bed by feather footing, or giving the car gas before he shifted into both reverse (to back out of parking spot) and then a gear (to drive onto the truck). I should have asked what gear he used, Drive or 1st just now thinking of this DOH!

Shop thinks it's either the torque converter or something with the valve body. They suggest replacing the entire transmission with a used one. Looking at about 2 grand out the door.

My research has me thinking my issue could be a solenoid, specifically the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid (TCC). One of many exmaples I've found, listed below.

Below is from Transmission repair guy website.
"Torque converter clutch solenoid – The torque converter clutch solenoid is an electronic component that controls the amount of fluid that is passed on to the torque converter clutch. If it malfunctions, too much or too little fluid will be released which will cause abnormal fluid pressures. This will lead to irregular behavior such as poor fuel economy and stalling. "

Anybody have any experience or related issues? Knowledge is power! Please!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I have discovered (I think) that my 4EAT is a Phase 2 Version 2. The valve body in these 4EATs change between the phase and versions.

According to Sonnax Subaru:
These are the years and models when the Phase II Version II valve body started production:
2004-Later Subaru Forester, Turbo
2005-Later Subaru Forester, Non-Turbo
2005-Later Subaru Legacy/Outback
2005-Later Subaru Impreza, Non-Turbo
2006-Later Subaru Impreza, Turbo

Which they do not carry in stock. I think I've found some on ebay, but not all 6.

Has anybody done any work or swapping with these valve body or solenoids?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update

After sitting for some time I finally got around to pulling the transmission pan, locating my 6 solenoids. I do in fact have the Phase 2 Version 2 transmission.

The solenoids for this year have 2 prongs within a VERY SMALL plastic housing.

(see this link for my solenoid- https://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLENOID-BLUE-CONNECTOR-FOR-SUBARU-4EAT/202493093596 -)

This made it very hard to get my test leads in for the multi meter and power probe. I ended up pulling all 6 and testing them on on the work bench. Still impossible with the size test leads I had, I ended up getting metal paper clips and rigging up a connection.

Results, well, unfortunately it appears all 6 solenoids are withing working order.
All 6 passed the power probe test where I added power to the solenoid in order to hear if the plunger inside was moving. Which they all did. They also all read 11.2 while power was being added.
Also used the multi meter to test resistance, or ohms readings, and all sat around 4 OHMS, which from my readings is the expected range. My multi meter is the cheapest, and honestly depending on how I placed the paper clips seemed to change my numbers a ton. Took a lot of time to get it to auto find its reading, and would also often move for most between 3 to 4.5 ohms.

So i'm still stuck with a transmission that stalls when you shift into Drive. Thinking about just buying the Torque Converter Solenoid and replacing it anyway since I've gotten this far already. I'll be adding about 5 quarts of new Subaru Auto Trans fluid.

Maybe I'll get lucky.
 
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