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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
30K service... WTF?

here is a list of some of the items they want to perform on betty today. it's $495.00 for the job.



Instal MOC oil conditioner. Install MOC fuel system cleaner Lubricate Brake cables and linkage. Inspect Cushion Filter (don't know what this is...
Tranny Service
Adjust ingnition timing. (really?)
Flush & change diff. fluid (is this needed at 30K?)
replace transfer case oil (is this needed at 30K?)
Flush & change brake fluid,


there are a lot more items, but they are all basically, "check fluids" "inspect brake lines" "replace air filter" "visual inspection of battery" etc. :rolleyes:

think it's worth the money? i couldn't believe the robbery personally.

TIA folks.

dR
 

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screw it. I've got 30,000 on mine and the only time it has gone to the dealer is to get the passenger side repaired. Most of that stuff sounds like a bunch of crap. Fluid flushes aren't a bad idea, though and you can probably get it done cheaper elsewhere. IMO, highway robbery.
 

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$500 is definitely too much, but don't neglect your periodic maintenance. You paid $25k for the car. It'd be stupid to skimp on maintenance. Even if it does end up costing $500 every two years, that ain't all that bad in the overall scheme of things.

The instructions and expanded schedules can be found in the Periodic Maintenance sticky at the top of this forum.

MOC Oil Conditioner - not sure what MOC is but I do recommend periodically adding BG MOA to your oil. But this is definitely optional. Actually, I think more important would be to use something like BG QuickClean to clean out deposits. You add it in right before your oil change and drive it for 10 - 15 minutes Cost: about $15

MOC Fuel System cleaner. Definitely a good idea. I recommend BG 44k. You just add it to a full tank of gas. Cost: $20

Lubricate brake cables and linkage: This is just your parking brake. Only scheduled to be inspected.

Cushion filter? I have no idea, but fuel and air filters are both due for replacement. Cost: About $25 plus a small amount of labor. Air filter is REALLY easy. Actually I think the Genuine Subaru fuel filter is like $25 and the air filter $20, but aftermarket is just as good and cheaper. Or use this as an excuse to get a K&N for about $40.

Tranny Service: Replace oil. Due. Cost depends on what kind of oil you use, but even using Redline's finest it's only $40 plus a little labor (easy)

Adjust timing: yeah right. What are they gonna do, reset your ECU or somethin? No.

Diff Oil. Due. Extremely easy. Cost: Redline's finest: $10. If you want to do it yourself you'll need a $5 fluid pump to make the job easier.

Transfer case: done with tranny.

Brake Fluid. YES! If you go for Motul 600, the service manual says you'll need a full can (16oz) and it'd be a good idea to have a second in case it takes more, air is accidentally let in necessitating more bleeding, etc. So that'll cost $30. ATE Super Blue is more appropriate for you if you're debating whether or not to change it at 30k. Motul, Castrol, AP all absorb water too fast and need to be changed at LEAST every 6 months. (like 1 month for the AP!) and a Liter (32oz) of ATE is just $15. Or just use regular DOT 4 for $5 a liter. I'd recommend Valvoline SynPower if you want to go with a cheap fluid. See the Tech Reference sticky in suspension and handling for more info. It'll take close to 1/2 hour of a tech's time. An hour for you and a buddy if you wanted to do it your self. IMO 30k is about half as often as it should be done. I'd do it at 15k.

Those inspections are VERY important and have an impact on your warranty. If you skip the inspection and something subsequently goes wrong that should have been caught in the inspection, Subaru has a legitimate beef with you over the warranty. (CV boots come immediately to mind) Again, instructions are listed in the sticky. Most of these inspections merely involve crawling under the car and taking a quick look. Like making sure the CV boots aren't cracked.

A major one NOT listed is coolant - it's due for replacement. Very cheap fluids. A job a monkey could do but disposal of the old anti-freeze can be a problem.

This stuff should DEFINITELY be done. If you're not confident doing it yourself, find a non-dealer Suby shop or even a reputable any-brand mechanic to do it. The dealers try to make back the money they discounted the car when you bought it this way. Another trick is to say, "OK, I'm gonna change the air filter and do the oil treatment and fuel system treatment myself. Please price out the rest of the items individually." I've heard of people getting the service from the dealer for a fraction of the price of the "full" service this way.

Chris
 

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One more point. Your 36k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty is just about up. If you take it somewhere other than the dealer, let them know this and ask them to look for stuff you could get fixed before the warranty runs out. They might charge you a little for this, but if they're smart - they usually are, it's hard to keep a small business going - they might do it for free to build good will in hopes that you'll bring the car to them for service after your warranty runs out.
 

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Anti-Freeze is Glycol based and the best way to dispose of it believe it or not is down the Toilet!

I believe the local waste and recycling company even send out pamphlets about disposing paint, oil, coolant, etc. and they recommended flushing anti-freeze down the pooper.

-Jason
 

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In Colorado, this is on an individual treatment facilty basis. Most prohibit this practice.
 

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I sold service at Servco Lexus here in Honolulu for 4 1/2 years . Servicing at the dealership is a great way for somebody that is NOT comfortable under the hood of their own car to make sure that everything is running in tip top shape and is documented at the dealership. When that person sells the car or needs warranty work done - the dealership has ALL of the service records and is happy to reproduce those records at any time.

There's also the fact that if a customer serviced with us regularly - we'd be much more likely to do "questionable" warranty work on the car (i.e. things that might not be open-and-shut factory responsibility might get taken care of for a regular service customer - and might not be for someone who never serviced at the dealership).

If you own a Benz, BMW, Lexus, or other high-line car brand (I used to a wrench at a Jaguar/Range Rover/Mercedes Benz/Volvo shop) I would recommend servicing at the dealer (you obviously have the money).

If not... Caveat Emptor - dealerships are not even TRYING to be competitive on service pricing (they can't afford to try to win your business through low-ball pricing)...

YMMV of course. :)
 

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All that being said - I used to charge ~$420.00 for a 30k service on a 2 wheel-drive Lexus. That included:

Engine oil and filter change.
Transmission fluid service (drain, flush, refill - no filters cuz' there are none! :D)
Differential fluid change (if separate from transmission - i.e. RWD)
P/S Fluid Flush
Air filter replacement
Windshield wiper blade replacement
Tire rotation
Full brake inspection adjustment (mostly tightening e-brake)
Full vehicle inspection (for anything amiss/awry - you'd be surprised by what we could catch! Then we would perform the warranty work for the customer at no charge right away)
Wash/vacuum/tire dress...

Usually took about 1/2 a day... Price was higher for AWD or 4WD vehicles...
 

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Another PS...

We would get a "spiff" (commission) if we could sell various additives and cleaners, etc. but since I didn't believe in them I don't think I sold a single bottle...
 

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is2scooby said:
I sold service at Servco Lexus here in Honolulu for 4 1/2 years . Servicing at the dealership is a great way for somebody that is NOT comfortable under the hood of their own car to make sure that everything is running in tip top shape and is documented at the dealership. When that person sells the car or needs warranty work done - the dealership has ALL of the service records and is happy to reproduce those records at any time.
That's a good point. When I do the scheduled maintenance (well, anything on the car actually) I keep meticulous records of everything, including any measurements that the Service Manual calls for. That way if the subject does ever come up, I can say "look, here's what I did and what the results were".

C
 

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Awesome practice,GV27! I have to say that when I work on my own cars the logging is kept to "date/service performed/mileage/out of the ordinary?"

I should practice what I preach! :D
 

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I just establish a notebook for each of my cars. Then I keep it handy when doing service, and take notes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Had the service done at a local customer of ours.

full tranny service, flush and new fluid
full coolant service, system flush, new antifreeze
full differential service, flush, new fluid (syth)
transfer case oil replaced
tires rotated
brakes checked (more than half left at 30K w00000t!)
warrantly check - i have a leaking seal on the drivers side axle - ----> thx GV!!
(appt to be made soon...) oil change, fuel filter, air filter.

total ticket? $129. i admit there were some favors included. i had a client do the work, and for a six pack, they give me serious discounts. also, all parts i got from the store, so no parts (filters, oil, etc) were charged. but still, all in all, WAY better than the ripoff subaru service even w/o the discounts.

i'm all good for the 10 hr road trip to PA now for thanksgiving. eating turkey with the g/f's fam this year. :)

dR

PS: GV27, I typically use the Techron fuel system treatment. it was rated very highly in some of the independent product testing info we get at the store. what's the word on the BF 44K? also, i'm holding off on the brake fluid till i get the brakes done. i would prolly only use the regular DOT 4 stuff though.. no need for frills there IMO.
 

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BG 44K is used for occasional, thorough cleaning. Probably every 15 - 30k miles. The Techron is for maintenance in between. I use both - Techron every few tanks, 44K occasionally.

If you're only half-way to needing new pads I wouldn't wait until then. That's a LONG time and that fluid is already at the end of its life. Although I guess if you're getting that kind of wear, heat build-up isn't an issue, though it'd suck to go on vacation to the mountains and have major brake fade - especially if you aren't used to mountain driving. I only got 10k out of my original pads! My EBCs (crap!) are more than half worn 9k later!

As far as the fluid goes, plain "generic" DOT4 is just fine, but it is pretty cheap to step up. ATE super blue is really good stuff and only $15 a quart and you only need one. The Super Blue exceeds DOT4 but is not DOT4 as the DOT4 spec specifies color, which is amber, not blue. They also make another fluid (forget the name) that is identical to the Super Blue except that it is amber, so it IS DOT4. The idea is to alternate back and forth so that it is really easy to tell when you're flowing good clean fluid.

I'd at least step up to SynPower - it's only $7 a quart. Check the chart in the sticky at the top of this forum - it really does make a big difference. But then again, I'd guess heat buildup isn't a big issue for you.

Glad to here you saved $350! Which mod are you thinking of spending it on? :D

Chris
 

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dark_rex said:

warrantly check - i have a leaking seal on the drivers side axle - ----> thx GV!!


I love it when people demonstrate what I preach. Makes me look real smart too! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Syn Power? we stock it, i've just never really considered it. i'll give it a run then. i'd also like to turn my rotors, as they are getting a little rusted, and i can feel it during hwy braking sometimes.

-anal - dR
 

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Sorry, I just have to have an answer for everything! ;)

You might just consider having the rotors bead-blasted. Good chance the little wobble you feel is just pad deposits. It'd take care of any rust as well. Any machine shop could do it - shouldn't cost more than $5 a rotor or so. If this takes care of the wobble, you've just extended the life of the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
aaaahhhh. but i can turn the rotors myself for NADA!

daddy has a lathe (and a bunch of other machines i'm not allowed to touch)

dR
 

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Brought my car in for the 30k service. They tell me $575.


W T F ?


:mad:


ok, i call other dealerships as soon as I get back to find out how much they charge. I get: $495, $570, $375. I called the ripoff dealership right back to stop service and they charge me $71 for service already done (I was at the dealership 30 minutes ago and all the dude did was drain some fluids).


I'm going to take my car to the $375 dealership. So I'm still out $446... I still feel like I'm getting ripped off... but at least I save $129.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
get the list of service items on the maintenance list for 30K, and take it to a mechanic. stay away from dealerships, their labor is $75+, and they way overcharge.

you can easily get this done for $250.

the important items on the 30K service are:

tranny/transfer case oil/fluid
coolant flush
brake fluid replaced.
differential oil replacement
rotate tires
check brakes
oil change
fuel/air filter

plus, going to another mechanic, tell him that your warranty is almost up, and to do a check for warranty items. my mechanic found a leaking axle seal!! :eek: the dealership would never have pointed that out, as they have to cover the parts and labor.

dR
 
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