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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey ladies and gentlemen,
Before I get roasted, I have searched and searched before asking this question.
I have the performance package with the red calipers and all that jazz. I lowered my car yesterday with the factionfab springs and when we got to the fronts, the instructions were to replace the bump stops. Well there were no bump stops to replace and the bump stops provided did not fit on the OEM suspension.
On the Subaru website the picture of the de-constructed strut assembly which shows the bump stop but it's not in the parts list below.
I installed the springs with no bump stops as they functioned fine without them previously.. But wondering if anyone has any insight. I am now getting some clunking on the driver's side only but I think that may be due to not following the torque specs, which I will be fixing tonight.

Thank you for your help in advance!
Font Line Parallel Engineering Diagram

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Both regular & inverted struts have internal bump stops. That said, the stock struts and suspension are not meant to be used with lowering springs, the shocks won't last long. That clunk could be binding bushings or an incorrectly seated spring, loosen every rubber bushing in the front suspension; control arms, tie rods, sway bars, etc. then lower the car on ground, move back and forth a few feet to settle the suspension & torque all bolts again with all 4 wheels on the ground or on ramps. Bottom end of spring sits on the 2nd of 3 marks on spring perch and top end follows the spring angle. You should have marked where the old spring sat on strut mount, if not look for service manual to position spring correctly. If the thick washer is upside down, that can also cause grinding or binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Both regular & inverted struts have internal bump stops. That said, the stock struts and suspension are not meant to be used with lowering springs, the shocks won't last long. That clunk could be binding bushings or an incorrectly seated spring, loosen every rubber bushing in the front suspension; control arms, tie rods, sway bars, etc. then lower the car on ground, move back and forth a few feet to settle the suspension & torque all bolts again with all 4 wheels on the ground or on ramps. Bottom end of spring sits on the 2nd of 3 marks on spring perch and top end follows the spring angle. You should have marked where the old spring sat on strut mount, if not look for service manual to position spring correctly. If the thick washer is upside down, that can also cause grinding or binding.
Okay, thank you. I won't have the time do that until this weekend unfortunately. But the new springs were installed exactly the same as the old springs. I've read quite a bit that the OEM top hats are terrible so I plan on purchasing new ones from white line tomorrow. As for the shocks/struts I didn't plan on keeping them stock for very long, maybe a couple months till I need new tires and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's the other way around, OEM top hats last a decent amount of time and the com-c top hats have lots of reviews and forum posts about early failures.
Got it. My bad on that one. I’m still learning. But do very much appreciate your help. i tightened everything to spec when I got home and no more clunk noises so could have possibly been just settling noises?
 

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Doubtful, it was probably something loose. Springs settle in the first few miles but don't make any noises. You still have to loosen and tighten all bushings under load. Rubber bushings don't let bolt spin like urethane, they twist. If you change the ride height, now all bushings are sitting twisted for most of the day and will go out quickly.
 
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