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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Can't say what it is from outside pics. You either need confirmation from prev owner or remove it to look inside. Either way if it's throwing efficiency codes then it's not good enough.

16psi steady boost pressure but it spikes to 21-24psi at the start when you floor it.
I think my best bet at this point would be to take it to a tuner, and see what their recommendation is. Do you think if I got a quality exhaust with a cat, and a quality tune, that it would run reliably?
 

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Ok. So I briefly read what's going on.

Here are your options.

Call the dealership and tell them they sold an illegally modified vehicle to you. Some states have different regulations for what a dealership can sell vs what a private seller can sell. Check into it first.

Order the OEM jpipe and have the dealership reflash the ECU to stock. Also if there is an intake or anything like external wastegate or blowoff valve it will need to be stock.

Find a tuner that is willing to risk their necks to tune it. Some still will, others are shying away for new customers opting to offer them legal performance options.

Reliability is ownership based, you take care of the vehicle it's more likely to take care of you within reason. Used vehicles are always a crap shoot. Even at general bolt on power levels the vehicle can go a ways and be a respectable driver. It's not without a loss of reliability but it can be minimal
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ok. So I briefly read what's going on.

Here are your options.

Call the dealership and tell them they sold an illegally modified vehicle to you. Some states have different regulations for what a dealership can sell vs what a private seller can sell. Check into it first.

Order the OEM jpipe and have the dealership reflash the ECU to stock. Also if there is an intake or anything like external wastegate or blowoff valve it will need to be stock.

Find a tuner that is willing to risk their necks to tune it. Some still will, others are shying away for new customers opting to offer them legal performance options.

Reliability is ownership based, you take care of the vehicle it's more likely to take care of you within reason. Used vehicles are always a crap shoot. Even at general bolt on power levels the vehicle can go a ways and be a respectable driver. It's not without a loss of reliability but it can be minimal
I don’t believe I have any external wastegate, or blowoff valve, there is no blowoff noise, it’s on a stock intake. where do I find an OEM j-pipe? I have searched near and far and nothing. I don’t want to push crazy power, and I am 100% content with the stock power, I am also very meticulous of my vehicles. Oh and another thing, I would probably have to buy the entire exhaust system, as this looks like just a 2 piece system that would have nowhere to bolt on a stock J pipe.
 

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I don’t believe I have any external wastegate, or blowoff valve, there is no blowoff noise, it’s on a stock intake. where do I find an OEM j-pipe? I have searched near and far and nothing. I don’t want to push crazy power, and I am 100% content with the stock power, I am also very meticulous of my vehicles. Oh and another thing, I would probably have to buy the entire exhaust system, as this looks like just a 2 piece system that would have nowhere to bolt on a stock J pipe.
Dealership or call a local performance shop and see what they have in their scrap pile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok. So I briefly read what's going on.

Here are your options.

Call the dealership and tell them they sold an illegally modified vehicle to you. Some states have different regulations for what a dealership can sell vs what a private seller can sell. Check into it first.

Order the OEM jpipe and have the dealership reflash the ECU to stock. Also if there is an intake or anything like external wastegate or blowoff valve it will need to be stock.

Find a tuner that is willing to risk their necks to tune it. Some still will, others are shying away for new customers opting to offer them legal performance options.

Reliability is ownership based, you take care of the vehicle it's more likely to take care of you within reason. Used vehicles are always a crap shoot. Even at general bolt on power levels the vehicle can go a ways and be a respectable driver. It's not without a loss of reliability but it can be minimal
I think your advice on going back to stock is my best option by a mile in terms of reliability. Would they be able to sell me an OEM exhaust system and check to make sure everything else is stock so that I can get a reflash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I'd just buy the jpipe portion. The cat back should be fine. I've not priced one in a fair while but cats tend to be spendy. See if they have an OEM one on rock auto.
But my whole system wouldn’t bolt right up to the J-pipe with the way whatever exhaust this is i have on right now, it looks to only have 2 bolt up sections. Check out my initial pics, because there is no split
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I'd just buy the jpipe portion. The cat back should be fine. I've not priced one in a fair while but cats tend to be spendy. See if they have an OEM one on rock auto.
Also, one more question… will the dealer be able to tell what is modified and what is not when I take it in? and can they help me figure out if it was at once properly tuned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yes they can.
I am starting to research a lot more about subarus(as I am new to subaru) and have read so much about how TBE with no tunes will blow up the engine, if this is the case, am I in deep trouble? It goes into the dealer on wednesday evening, and i’m hoping I can just get them to install the oem j pipe and i pipe, and all will be well again, is any damage from this that is already caused completely irreversible and out of my control? Would it be as easy as the dealer throwing on oem parts and reflashing the computer and my problems would be solved? I do not drive the car harshly, I have done a couple hard pulls, not completely WOT as I am still getting used to shift positions, etc, but I do not hear any signs of detonation, and car runs pretty decent(for my standards) idle is usually between 700 w/o AC and 850 sometimes 900 w ac, the thing is… none of these codes have actually popped up, only pending, except for the current one I have right now which is p0420, and I can’t remember the other one, as it was on my way home right after I got gas, the car ran pretty shitty for about a mile,I gently drove it during that time and it evened out after awhile.. My first thought was bad gas as it had started running like that right after I filled up, as of now, I’ve only ran chevron 91 and haven’t had any issues, except the pending codes.
 

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I am starting to research a lot more about subarus(as I am new to subaru) and have read so much about how TBE with no tunes will blow up the engine, if this is the case, am I in deep trouble? It goes into the dealer on wednesday evening, and i’m hoping I can just get them to install the oem j pipe and i pipe, and all will be well again, is any damage from this that is already caused completely irreversible and out of my control? Would it be as easy as the dealer throwing on oem parts and reflashing the computer and my problems would be solved? I do not drive the car harshly, I have done a couple hard pulls, not completely WOT as I am still getting used to shift positions, etc, but I do not hear any signs of detonation, and car runs pretty decent(for my standards) idle is usually between 700 w/o AC and 850 sometimes 900 w ac, the thing is… none of these codes have actually popped up, only pending, except for the current one I have right now which is p0420, and I can’t remember the other one, as it was on my way home right after I got gas, the car ran pretty shitty for about a mile,I gently drove it during that time and it evened out after awhile.. My first thought was bad gas as it had started running like that right after I filled up, as of now, I’ve only ran chevron 91 and haven’t had any issues, except the pending codes.
Damage is possible but you need compression, leakdown, borescope, turbo inspection, etc. to confirm. You can't hear detonation in a modern 2L, only see it on codes. By the time you hear it, there might be a rod poking through the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Damage is possible but you need compression, leakdown, borescope, turbo inspection, etc. to confirm. You can't hear detonation in a modern 2L, only see it on codes. By the time you hear it, there might be a rod poking through the hood.
What codes are associated? I know P0328 is a knock sensor code is one, as my buddy experienced it in his 2013. If I haven’t seen any codes rather than what I mentioned is it pretty safe to say I caught it at a good time? I’m sure they’ll perform tests and inspections tomorrow when trying to figure out what all is wrong. just dropped it off at dealership tonight.
 

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You are likely fine.

The FA20F didn't have nearly the piston problems the EJ's had so they are slightly more detonation resistant.

Those rods are noodles in comparison though. Under normal circumstances even detonation wont kablooey a rod.
 
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