[jdg1f]

So my 2016 wrx completely cranked last week for a mere one second before turning back off. Tried jumping it to no avail. All my light and electrical components turn on when I switch the key on, but the engine will not turn over when I try to crank it. Took the battery out, had it tested, bad battery. This was an OEM battery, barely a year old. Replaced it. Same thing. The lights all come on but when I turn the key to crank it, all the lights turn of. It does not even click like the starter is trying to turn. and when I release the key the lights come back on. I tried popping the clutch a few times and it tried to turn over once on one attempt and two times on another (figure I cannot get enough speed).

Friend tapped the starter and it turned over just a few times on that attempt, however when I hold the key to try and crank, I get a wire somewhere burning away its insulation. I just removed the intercooler today to try and get a look at the ground wire and this is what I found. Any thoughts as to what I need to do, is this an electrical problem? I don't think its the alternator but could it just be the starter itself, I'd read a lot of people having issues with the ground wires though not really on the newer cars so soon.

 

[XJman]

Take it to the dealer and have them cover it under warranty for free.

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[MainFrame]

I would definitely have the dealership take care of that under warranty.. If you're having electrical problems you're not going to want them to deny coverage because you were messing with it.

 

[jdg1f]

I totally understand the input for taking it to the dealer, however I bought the car used which left it without a warranty. I'm not necessarily gonna do anything else myself, but if it seems like something simple like the ground not making a good connection, I'd like to consider doing it myself.

 

[irickchad]

Buying the car used doesn't leave it without a warranty, unless you're above 36K miles or 60K for powertrain, you have a manufacturer's warranty from Subaru.

 

[jdg1f]

It's only at 20k miles. Ive done some stuff that would probably void an engine warranty, but the starter and electrical wouldn't fall under that would it?

 

[XJman]

Nothing can void your warranty completely.

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[irickchad]

You should be fine to have your car checked out by Subaru. Unless you've just done something insane to your electrical system personally, then whatever is going on should be covered.

 

[jdg1f]

I did some research on the warranty and I think I'm gonna go ahead and have it towed to the dealership tomorrow. Having a COBB AP shouldn't matter should it? I can reset it to the factory tune. Thanks everyone

 

[jdg1f]

Update:

Dealership says the engine is seized. Never got any CEL, no knocking. No smoke. Warranty claim denied. SOL.

Forgot to mention mods:
CAI
GFB BOV
perrin headers and Invidia Exhaust (catless)
COBB stage 2 93 octane

The night before this all started, I was driving home and experienced a slight stutter in the RPMs.
Following morning, crank the car, it turns over and starts for a split second and then cuts right off. No Lights or code (not even read by AP).

I rarely took my car over 5k RPMs, and like I said, oil and coolant levels were good and no knocking. Never been on a dyno or done any crazy pulls. Maybe like one time I let it bounce off redline.

Dealer wants 1,200 for an engine tear down. However that's a lot of money for a tear down. Do any of these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?

 

[XJman]

1200 isn't bad to pull an engine. I can't speak to your symptoms.

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[jdg1f]

Not too bad, Other shops have told me 750. But if I want a chance at having my warranty honored it has to be done by Subaru or a certified subaru mechanic or whatever. So gonna drop the money and hope it's some kind of manufacturer defect. Fingers crossed.

 

[MainFrame]

CAI
GFB BOV
perrin headers and Invidia Exhaust (catless)
COBB stage 2 93 octane


I rarely took my car over 5k RPMs, and like I said, oil and coolant levels were good and no knocking. Never been on a dyno or done any crazy pulls. Maybe like one time I let it bounce off redline.

Doesn't really matter if you're up to date on maintenance and don't abuse the car.. running the wrong/bad tune will ruin an engine pretty much every time. In this case I'd figure about 90% chance that the engine failure is directly related to your modifications and the fact that you did not have the car tuned for the mods you had.

That said I would still do some investigating before assuming it actually is seized. I would drain the oil and inspect it first before jumping to conclusions. Also, give it another go at push starting and see if the engine will turn over.. it's low compression, so it should be relatively easy to at least get it to turn over, if not start. I'm able to push start my WRX on flat ground by myself. With a couple buddies pushing it should be a cinch to make it turn over, if the engine isn't seized.


Did you happen to pay attention to the DAM before all this occurred?

 

[irickchad]

You ran a canned tune with a blow off valve, headers and intake......

That's what happened to your car.

 

[jdg1f]

I appreciate your clearly intellectual input, however it's not useful at all. Thanks.

 

[jdg1f]

Doesn't really matter if you're up to date on maintenance and don't abuse the car.. running the wrong/bad tune will ruin an engine pretty much every time. In this case I'd figure about 90% chance that the engine failure is directly related to your modifications and the fact that you did not have the car tuned for the mods you had.

That said I would still do some investigating before assuming it actually is seized. I would drain the oil and inspect it first before jumping to conclusions. Also, give it another go at push starting and see if the engine will turn over.. it's low compression, so it should be relatively easy to at least get it to turn over, if not start. I'm able to push start my WRX on flat ground by myself. With a couple buddies pushing it should be a cinch to make it turn over, if the engine isn't seized.


Did you happen to pay attention to the DAM before all this occurred?

I didn't look at it before it happened. Idk, we did try to push start it where the engine gave some response but at the dealership they said they tried to hand crank it and the engine wouldn't move.

 

[WRX-maniac]

Sorry to say, but you are more than likely going to have to front the money for a new shortblock. Not trying to be a ****head here, but this is what happens when people have no idea what they are doing when they modify a car. If I was Subaru, I wouldn't honor the warranty claim either.

Literally none of the mods you listed, except for maybe the intake(you didn't specify what brand), are not supported for the Cobb Stage 2 map. There are map notes for these maps on what you can, or cannot run.

You modified a car without proper ecu mapping. You should have done some research before you started throwing money at your car. First off, the bov should have never been on there. That alone can cause issues. Even if you had the stock bpv on there, the other mods justify a protune, as no map cobb offers covers a single one of those mods.

Sometimes you have to pay to play, in this case you played the wrong hand and now you will have to pay to fix it.

 

[jdg1f]

Sorry to say, but you are more than likely going to have to front the money for a new shortblock. Not trying to be a ****head here, but this is what happens when people have no idea what they are doing when they modify a car. If I was Subaru, I wouldn't honor the warranty claim either.

Literally none of the mods you listed, except for maybe the intake(you didn't specify what brand), are not supported for the Cobb Stage 2 map. There are map notes for these maps on what you can, or cannot run.

You modified a car without proper ecu mapping. You should have done some research before you started throwing money at your car. First off, the bov should have never been on there. That alone can cause issues. Even if you had the stock bpv on there, the other mods justify a protune, as no map cobb offers covers a single one of those mods.

Sometimes you have to pay to play, in this case you played the wrong hand and now you will have to pay to fix it.

You're definitely right and I've learned my lesson. Any suggestions on a good block to go with? Obviously I don't want to pay the 12 grand Subaru quoted me. But maybe I'll find out some useful information from the tear down.

 

[jdg1f]

If I can salvage the car and get it running. Definitely going to go back to stock and leave it that way

 

[irickchad]

It depends on your ultimate goals down the line on which block you should go with. If you plan to stay stock, you can get a new stock block installed at a Subaru Specific shop for much cheaper than the dealership. If you plan on building it for Horsepower, you can spend much more than the 12K quoted, it just depends what you want out of the car. If you do plan to overhaul it, you can't go wrong with anything from IAG.

https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Stage-3-FA20-DIT-Subaru-Short-Block-2015-WRX-p/iag-eng-1312.htm