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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, this is my first post here, but I've been lurking for awhile :). Little about me: I come from a 350Z background and while I still love those rear-wheel drives, they're simply not all year round cars. I've always been interested in the Subaru AWD system and it's all year round appeal, so I finally bought a ice silver 2015 WRX base in 8/17 and absolutely love it! :woocow:

I've been searching for a second set of wheels & tires as I'm dedicating my oem wheels w blizzacks to winter duty only. I am interested in the following wheels:

Rays volks or gram lights, bronze color, and plan on putting either the Michellen PS 4S or the Michellen PS A/S 3+ (BTW, if you have other wheel/tire set-up that you think may fit what I'm looking for, please feel free to let me know!), 255-35-18 or 245-40-18. I’m looking to purchase within the next couple of weeks as the weather here in Lake Tahoe is warming up quickly and the blizzacks don’t last long under those conditions.

What I’m looking for is as follows:
1). Performance first, looks second
2). Forged vs cast with flow forming - I want it lite and strong. But is forged worth it since my car is my DD along with occasionally track & auto-crossing?
3). Being my DD, I occasionally have stuff in the trunk and since I do some Uber/Lyft driving, I do occasionally have passengers. So this means that I don’t want the tire/wheel to rub under weight, with comfort being a secondary concern.
4). I want low unsprung weight. In reference to #2 above, if I go larger, for example like when I go from 17x8 to 18x9.5 as most Subaru online sites wheels/recommend this size, while I know I’m gaining some weight, what am I gaining by going with that size? More specifically, why do you guys ( and many other sites as well, mostly have that size for our cars? Is it mainly for looks, or is it best for all around performance (I'm concerned mostly with the latter)?
5). Scrub radius and contact patch. I understand that wheel width itself doesn’t make much difference in grip because either a narrower or wider wheel will essential have the same contact patch area, it just the shape of the tire deformation under weight that’s different, correct? That said, a wider tire will deform more laterally (ie rectangle), giving you more grip for track event while cornering. Conversely, a narrower tire will deform more from front to back (ie looks more like a square), being better for straight line traction. As I’m into tracking, whats the wheel and tire width sweet spot? I don’t want to roll my fenders or any of that stuff.
6). Brake clearance. I want whatever wheel I get to be able to have enough clearance to add a big brake kit in the future w/o worries. Is the offset of 38 that's usually recommended with 18x9.5 help with that? Also, what face is needed?
7). Keeping stock height.

I know that’s a lot of stuff, but I want to only ‘buy once, cry once’, meaning I want to be fully informed before I make a significant and vitally important purchase as this.

Thanks in advance guys!

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I run Machv Awesome wheels which at 17x9 +42 and 17 pounds are pretty much the ideal cheap track wheel when paired with a 255 tire. They clear Sti brembos quite easily.

If you are looking at the Pilot Sports I would also look at the Continental Sports as well , really good tire.
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